Restaurant Reviews

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Monica Hits Midtown Monica Hits Midtown
Pope's new restaurant is flat-out brilliant
, March 11, 2004
A slice of dark purple duck prosciutto, a little sweet blood orange, some crunchy fennel and a sip of a "yellow fever" cocktail -- that's all it... More >>
Land of Azúcar Land of Azúcar
Japaneiro’s Sushi Bistro & Latin Grill in Sugar Land certainly is living up to its name
, March 04, 2004
There are ten stools at the sushi bar, and they all seem to be occupied by sushi eaters of Asian descent. A few feet away, the other bar is... More >>
Gastropub Crawl Gastropub Crawl
The Red Lion isn't just another fake British pub -- it's an authentically fake British pub
, February 26, 2004
Although the shepherd's pie at the newly opened Red Lion Pub on Shepherd is made with ground lamb, it manages to taste bland anyway. The sausages... More >>
Terrible Ciao Terrible Ciao
A tide of jamlike red sauce splashes over the cuisine at Terra Bosco's
, February 19, 2004
Inside the attractive wicker basket, wrapped in a lovely linen napkin, was a limp-crusted loaf of white bread with all the character of a... More >>
Cupid Plays the Odds
Does Restaurant Ronit/Café Beignet pass Valentine's Day muster?
, February 12, 2004
The sunshine striking our window-side table on this brilliant winter afternoon makes the seafood in my soup sparkle and glow. Chunks of fresh... More >>
Raw Weather Raw Weather
This winter's oyster season is the best in recent history
, February 05, 2004
For dessert, we ordered our third dozen. The waitress was confused. Admittedly, it was a tad strange. But the two dozen oysters the four of us... More >>
Clyde's Hideaway Clyde's Hideaway
Drexler's is a shrine to "the Glide"
, January 29, 2004
As you probably already know, the Houston Rockets are playing the New Jersey Nets Saturday afternoon at the Toyota Center. If you don't have... More >>
Eat, Drink, Watch Movie Eat, Drink, Watch Movie
The Alamo Drafthouse Cinema caters to hungry film buffs
, January 22, 2004
There are a lot of menu items with corny movie names at the Alamo Drafthouse Cinema, the multiscreen movie theater in West Oaks Mall where you... More >>
Sino-Tex Sino-Tex
Two little restaurants serve up “Houstonized” Chinese food
, January 15, 2004
The shrimp fried rice doesn't taste Chinese. And the fried whole mojarra comes with tartar sauce instead of ginger and scallions. 888 Chinese... More >>
Totemic Burger Totemic Burger
Bask in the glow of this glorious sandwich
, January 08, 2004
Swaddled in tissue paper and laid in a plastic cradle full of french fries, the jalapeño cheeseburger seems to glow. Maybe it's just the greasy... More >>
South American Spaghetti South American Spaghetti
Giannotti's serves up pasta and yerba mate
, January 01, 2004
The spaghetti isn't round; it's square and cut thick, like homemade noodles. Maybe it doesn't look like regular spaghetti, but as I slurp another... More >>
Sparkling Leftovers Sparkling Leftovers
The five top-scoring champagne cocktails ranked on a scale of 1 to 10
, December 25, 2003
Put a couple of drops of good old Angostura bitters on a sugar cube. Drop the cube in your champagne flute, fill the glass with bubbly and... More >>
Ancient Eggplant Ancient Eggplant
Ephesus Grill may be a new restaurant, but its cuisine is from way back in the day
, December 18, 2003
The floor of the hutlike enclosure is covered with sheepskins, and its walls are of rough-hewn wood. I recline against a pillow covered in a red... More >>
Come Back  to Sorrento Come Back to Sorrento
The latest addition to the "Restaurant District" on lower Westheimer is a gem
, December 11, 2003
Since Houston now has a Museum District and a Theater District, perhaps the stretch of lower Westheimer between Bagby and Shepherd, with its high... More >>
Cosmopolitan Confit Cosmopolitan Confit
Chef Edelberto Gonçalves has cooked up a hot spot
, December 04, 2003
A skinny guy with a blond bouffant hairdo and a calf-length black mink coat swoops into the bar at Rouge, where my dining companion and I are... More >>
Stinky Food Stinky Food
The fermented tofu at Taiwanese Cuisine makes even our fearless food critic gag
, November 27, 2003
The bite-size cubes of fried tofu look innocuous. They might be little squares of corn bread or fried polenta. Then I pick up the plate and take... More >>
Tamale Morning Tamale Morning
Bring your own coffee to Doña Tere and feast on a great breakfast
, November 20, 2003
On Saturday morning at 10:30, there are around a dozen people eating tamales and drinking atole in the steamy little restaurant called Doña Tere... More >>
Slow Down for Crabs Slow Down for Crabs
Blue Water Seafood's got a wonderfully crusty coastal feel
, November 13, 2003
Our order of six blue crabs arrives just as King of the Hill starts. My daughter Julia and I are seated at a table out on the porch of Blue Water... More >>
My Pork  Belly Future My Pork Belly Future
Mi Pueblito is a restaurant for Colombians who miss home, but gringos will still enjoy its fare -- especially the chewy pork bits
, November 06, 2003
The wooden bowl full of warm milk, poached eggs and white bread comes with a slice of queso fresco on the side. You tear up the cheese and... More >>
Houston Vice Houston Vice
Vizio can't seem to keep ingredients in stock -- even on slow nights
, October 30, 2003
It wouldn't be unreasonable to expect good things from Vizio. Before opening the restaurant, its chef and owner, Tommaso Lestingi, spent seven... More >>
Vic's Backyard Bar-B-Q Barn serves great links and ribs, but its owner isn't from around here
, October 23, 2003
On my way to host the Houston Press Restaurant Radio Show one Friday afternoon, I stopped by Vic's Backyard Bar-B-Q Barn on Fondren and grabbed... More >>
Cancún Cuisine Cancún Cuisine
Take a little trip to Cascadas Cantina y Restaurante
, October 16, 2003
Water cascades over the glistening ersatz stones of a 12-foot-high waterfall while palm trees sway in the gentle evening breeze. Beneath the... More >>
A Tale of  Two Critics A Tale of Two Critics
The coffee is strong and the pastries are excellent, but Le Bec Fin isn't your typical French cafe
, October 09, 2003
"The french fries are awful," Alison Cook whispers. I pick one up off her plate and eat it. She's trying the chicken wings and french fries at Le... More >>
Frankincense and Popcorn Frankincense and Popcorn
Coffee and conversation at Blue Nile
, October 02, 2003
Our hostess spoons frankincense resin over a red-hot charcoal briquette in the ceremonial burner on our table, and a cloud of fragrant smoke... More >>
Pavlovian Pork Chops Pavlovian Pork Chops
The soul food steam table at J.J.'s Cafe skips your brain and talks directly to your stomach
, September 25, 2003
Ordering from a menu is an exercise in semiotics. You decipher what a restaurant serves by wading through a system of often meaningless symbols... More >>
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