Restaurant Reviews

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Food of  the God Food of the God
Robert Del Grande continues to perform miracles at Cafe Annie
, June 24, 2004
There are two culinary-school lessons I will never forget: 1) Cold roux, hot liquid; hot roux, cold liquid; and 2) Robert Del Grande is God. My... More >>
Wine-Geek Chic Wine-Geek Chic
La Vista caters to BYOB diners
, June 17, 2004
When I walk up to La Vista on Fountain View carrying a bottle of wine, I notice a poster in the window that says the restaurant has applied for a... More >>
Dry-Aged Discrimination Dry-Aged Discrimination
What grade of beef are the steaks at The Capital Grille?
, June 10, 2004
Flames are shooting out of the high-tech stainless-steel broiler at The Capital Grille on Westheimer. And thanks to the open design of the... More >>
Ceviche Heaven Ceviche Heaven
This new Peruvian restaurant is serving the best seafood cocktail in town
, June 03, 2004
The red snapper in the ceviche at Pezcalato, the new Peruvian restaurant on Richmond, is so soft, I wonder if it's been ground up like hamburger... More >>
Plano Tex-Mex Plano Tex-Mex
Mi Cocina's food may be tepid, but the margaritas are magnificent
, May 27, 2004
My companion is late, so I sit by myself drinking iced tea and eating chips on the patio of Mi Cocina on Woodway. The salsa looks and tastes like... More >>
Pacific Rim Shot Pacific Rim Shot
, May 20, 2004
The spongy, marshmallow-sized scallops are coated in a sauce that tastes like ketchup mixed with cornstarch and a lot of sugar. The bright red... More >>
Meat and Tomatoes Meat and Tomatoes
Avenida Paulista Churrascaria should please carnivores and vegetarians alike
, May 13, 2004
My vegetarian lunch companion is astonished. There are 41 gorgeously decorated plates on the salad bar at Avenida Paulista Churrascaria, the new... More >>
Shrimp N'  Ice Cream Shrimp N' Ice Cream
What to order at the Indian seafood restaurant Fish N' More
, May 06, 2004
The shrimp masala sounds good, so I order some for lunch. "Hot or mild?" the guy behind the counter at Fish N' More asks. "Hot!" I answer. I... More >>
Blaze of Glory Blaze of Glory
Jarro Cafe's salsas are set-your-face-on-fire picante
, April 29, 2004
The interior of Jarro Cafe on Gessner is pleasantly air- conditioned. But veteran ethnic-food explorer Jay Francis (see "Ethnic Explorer," August... More >>
Fantastic Fusion Fantastic Fusion
Mantra's Mike Potowski seems to delight in turning culture clashes into culinary fashion statements
, April 22, 2004
Chunks of ahi tuna are seared on the outside and red and raw in the center. They're scattered along a skinny, plank-shaped cracker teetering on a... More >>
Juicy Juxtaposition Juicy Juxtaposition
Al's Quick Stop serves up Mexican and Middle Eastern foods side by side
, April 15, 2004
Igor is dousing his gyro wrap with a bright red salsa that tastes like a combination of roasted red peppers and cayenne powder. He has made... More >>
Freezer Burned Freezer Burned
The burgers at Moore’s Double Horn Grill make our food critic do a double take
, April 08, 2004
John Bebout makes a little joke in Greek, much to the delight of the Greek guy behind the counter. We order a couple of half-pound hamburgers... More >>
Baklava Bravissimo Baklava Bravissimo
Cafe Bijan makes treats so good, somebody's grandma must've made them
, April 01, 2004
Our hostess waits patiently behind the walk-up counter while the four of us stare at the pretty pictures of kabob plates mounted on the wall... More >>
Sunnyside Sup Sunnyside Sup
Reid's is an awesome barbecue time capsule
, March 25, 2004
Mothballs and wood smoke are a strange combination of aromas. That's what I smell when I sit down at Reid's Barbecue restaurant down in... More >>
Jekyll & Hydesky Jekyll & Hydesky
Two trips to steak house Smith & Wollensky yield wildly different results
, March 18, 2004
The bartender at the new Smith & Wollensky steak house on Westheimer pours a generous dose of Beefeater gin into an ice-filled stainless-steel... More >>
Monica Hits Midtown Monica Hits Midtown
Pope's new restaurant is flat-out brilliant
, March 11, 2004
A slice of dark purple duck prosciutto, a little sweet blood orange, some crunchy fennel and a sip of a "yellow fever" cocktail -- that's all it... More >>
Land of Azúcar Land of Azúcar
Japaneiro’s Sushi Bistro & Latin Grill in Sugar Land certainly is living up to its name
, March 04, 2004
There are ten stools at the sushi bar, and they all seem to be occupied by sushi eaters of Asian descent. A few feet away, the other bar is... More >>
Gastropub Crawl Gastropub Crawl
The Red Lion isn't just another fake British pub -- it's an authentically fake British pub
, February 26, 2004
Although the shepherd's pie at the newly opened Red Lion Pub on Shepherd is made with ground lamb, it manages to taste bland anyway. The sausages... More >>
Terrible Ciao Terrible Ciao
A tide of jamlike red sauce splashes over the cuisine at Terra Bosco's
, February 19, 2004
Inside the attractive wicker basket, wrapped in a lovely linen napkin, was a limp-crusted loaf of white bread with all the character of a... More >>
Cupid Plays the Odds
Does Restaurant Ronit/Café Beignet pass Valentine's Day muster?
, February 12, 2004
The sunshine striking our window-side table on this brilliant winter afternoon makes the seafood in my soup sparkle and glow. Chunks of fresh... More >>
Raw Weather Raw Weather
This winter's oyster season is the best in recent history
, February 05, 2004
For dessert, we ordered our third dozen. The waitress was confused. Admittedly, it was a tad strange. But the two dozen oysters the four of us... More >>
Clyde's Hideaway Clyde's Hideaway
Drexler's is a shrine to "the Glide"
, January 29, 2004
As you probably already know, the Houston Rockets are playing the New Jersey Nets Saturday afternoon at the Toyota Center. If you don't have... More >>
Eat, Drink, Watch Movie Eat, Drink, Watch Movie
The Alamo Drafthouse Cinema caters to hungry film buffs
, January 22, 2004
There are a lot of menu items with corny movie names at the Alamo Drafthouse Cinema, the multiscreen movie theater in West Oaks Mall where you... More >>
Sino-Tex Sino-Tex
Two little restaurants serve up “Houstonized” Chinese food
, January 15, 2004
The shrimp fried rice doesn't taste Chinese. And the fried whole mojarra comes with tartar sauce instead of ginger and scallions. 888 Chinese... More >>
Totemic Burger Totemic Burger
Bask in the glow of this glorious sandwich
, January 08, 2004
Swaddled in tissue paper and laid in a plastic cradle full of french fries, the jalapeño cheeseburger seems to glow. Maybe it's just the greasy... More >>
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