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Restaurant Reviews
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Chipotle off the Old Block Austin's Serranos Café and Cantina tries out its Tex-Mex on Houston
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May 15, 2003
Just like the old-fashioned Tex-Mex version, Serranos' cheese enchiladas are crispy on the ends and covered with chile gravy. But unlike the... More >>
Ice Cream Sandwich Nundini Food Store's panini are good, but their gelati are great
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May 08, 2003
"Which flavor do you want to try?" asks the manager of the Nundini deli on North Shepherd in the Heights. He's standing behind ten colorful vats... More >>
Bigger and Battered Where does Baytown Seafood get those enormous shrimp?
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May 01, 2003
The pile of fried shrimp looks like a mountain of corn flakes. I pick one up and admire how the golden batter has formed a crunchy, irregular... More >>
Wednesday Brunch Golden Palace is Houston's top weekday dim sum destination
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April 24, 2003
Steam rises from the translucent shrimp dumpling (No. 55). The seductive morsel reclines enticingly on my plate, plump, juicy and too hot to eat.... More >>
Wall of Flavor Phil Spector has got nothing on the Little Karachi neighborhood's La Sani Restaurant
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April 17, 2003
There is no polite way to suck a goat bone. And the goat korma masala at La Sani is served in the authentic fashion, bones and all. So at some... More >>
Wet Noodle Spaghetti marinara is pretty hard to mess up, but they've found a way at Palazzo's Italian Café
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April 10, 2003
Where are sliced tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic and basil on the "margherita" side and diced tomatoes, garlic, red onion, lemon and basil on the... More >>
Bibim Bap's Rap
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April 03, 2003
Four rolled-up balls of cold shredded vegetables sit in the bottom of the bowl under a fried egg. Rumor has it there's some beef in there... More >>
Chuck E.-nese Cuisine Taiko
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March 27, 2003
The head sushi chef leans over his work station to hear my whispered request. "This young lady over here wants to try sushi for the first time,"... More >>
Dinner and Darts The Rivendell Bar & Grille
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March 20, 2003
When we first enter The Rivendell Bar & Grille, we walk by two women who are talking intently on a big sofa by the front door. One has her legs... More >>
Katy Pie Pizza Bella
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March 13, 2003
Roma tomatoes sliced thin lengthwise, a smattering of fresh basil leaves and a little garlic over olive oil -- these are the only toppings on the... More >>
Whirled Cuisine Farrago
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March 06, 2003
A half-pound of medium-rare Black Angus hamburger meat smothered in melting Gorgonzola and topped with a pile of wispy batter-fried onions sits... More >>
Gem on Jones Get to A Taste of Portugal before Tony Vallone tells everybody about it
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February 27, 2003
A large party at the front of the restaurant is getting a lot of attention. A Taste of Portugal's chef jokes with them as he carries dishes out... More >>
Say Cheez An ode to the stuff that makes Jake's Philly Steaks
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February 20, 2003
The Villanova, Temple and Penn State pennants on the wall give me a good feeling about Jake's Philly Steaks. Even more reassuring is the souvenir... More >>
Teachings of the Pope Learning to love Boulevard Bistrot
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February 13, 2003
We're still shivering when the waitress brings our menus. Maybe it's the January chill that causes us both to want the dish called winter curry,... More >>
Dining by Demographic Fleming's Prime Steakhouse serves up excellent renditions of the nation's most average food and wine preferences
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February 06, 2003
Our waiter stops by and moves his lips. The noise level in the packed dining room at Fleming's, the new steak house on Alabama, is so high that... More >>
Taiwan's Tapioca Attack Bubble tea goes mainstream
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January 30, 2003
The young Asian woman behind the counter at Lollicup whips up my jasmine tea and my date's mango slushy at blinding speed.
"Tapioca?" she... More >>
Goat Doughnuts Go Global The Hot Breads franchise serves unique pastries to a worldwide audience
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January 23, 2003
The sky is deep blue and bright outside the plate-glass window at Hot Breads bakery on Hillcroft. On the shopping center sidewalk, a young man... More >>
Globalization's McBacklash Guatemala’s Pollo Campero has American fast-food franchises running scared
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January 16, 2003
At 11:52 a.m., I ease into the line of cars waiting to pull in to the parking lot of the new fried chicken franchise Pollo Campero. The traffic... More >>
New Digs, Old Tricks The Riviera Grill has moved downtown, but it doesn't know how to make an urban statement
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January 09, 2003
In 1924, the year the Sam Houston Hotel first opened, Damon Runyon was America's best-read journalist. With an incredible eye for detail, Runyon... More >>
Feeling Lucky? Score big at the Lucky Pot noodle shop
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January 02, 2003
It's lunchtime and all ten tables at the Lucky Pot noodle shop are taken. Aside from me and my dining companion, the only other Anglo in the... More >>
Mexican, Straight Up Pondering the similarities between rock and roll and Mexican food at Hugo's
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December 26, 2002
"Rock and roll is like Mexican food. As it improves in quality it stops being what it is," wrote Dave Hickey in The Village Voice in 1975. I... More >>
Not That Turkey Where have all the Turkish restaurants been? Hiding in plain sight as "Mediterranean" cafes.
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December 19, 2002
Hot flatbread in one hand, knife in the other, I am poised to attack. But I hesitate, momentarily overwhelmed by the seductive excess before me.... More >>
Drink Pink Rosé champagnes compete in our third annual sparkler shoot-out
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December 12, 2002
Delicious Mischief is the name of a radio program about food and wine on KRTS 92.1 FM. It's also an apt description of the impish rascality... More >>
Mystery Meat Maverick's motto may be "Supper + Whiskey," but the restaurant doesn't always deliver on both counts
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December 05, 2002
The 28-ounce T-bone at Maverick Supper + Whiskey comes with a smear of red chile-flavored butter on top. That's it. No potatoes, no vegetables,... More >>
Tired of Turkey? Chef Wakasugi's sushi is designed to please the Texan palate
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November 28, 2002
Bright red and streaked with fat, the large slab of raw meat glistens invitingly. It looks like a quarter-inch-thick slice of raw filet mignon.... More >>
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From the Print Edition
MasterChef Season 3 Winner Christine Ha
Get Lit Well, it appears I'm not Christine Ha's only stalker huge fan here in Houston. On June 11, the MasterChef Season 3 winner spoke to a full house at Brazos Bookstore,… More >>
A Slice for a Tat
Food Trucks Last November, local food truck favorite Pi Pizza wanted to celebrate its one-year anniversary with something memorable. Anthony Calleo, owner and head honcho of Pi Pizza, came up with… More >>
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