Restaurant Reviews

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Up for a Spin Up for a Spin
At Spindletop, it's the view, not the food, that dazzles
, September 18, 2003
Close your eyes in Spindletop's circular dining room and you can barely feel the motion. It's like a slow, "clutch in" drift backward during... More >>
Bordering on Bennigan's
Is Morgan's on Montrose just an unfortunate chain reaction?
, September 11, 2003
At Morgan's on Montrose, the restaurant that has replaced the Redwood Grill, the Asian tuna salad comes on a pale green rectangular plate. The... More >>
Mexico City Tex-Mex Mexico City Tex-Mex
What is Las Llardas's little secret?
, September 04, 2003
Tlacoyos turn out to be fried pielike ovals of masa dough filled with beans and then baked. There are three of them on the plate, covered with... More >>
Only 200 Served Only 200 Served
Burgers become the best of barbecue at Guy's Meat Market
, August 28, 2003
You like hamburgers?" plumber Bill Beatty asks me conspiratorially as we stand in line at Guy's Meat Market on Old Spanish Trail. It's not yet... More >>
Barbecued Squid Barbecued Squid
A special dish scores as the Seoul food of Korea Garden
, August 21, 2003
The squid was just an afterthought. The bulgogi (marinated rib eye) and bulgalbi (marinated boneless short ribs) would probably have been plenty... More >>
History's at Steak History's at Steak
, August 14, 2003
There is a pleasant aroma inside Brenner's Steakhouse and it isn't my medium-rare New York strip: I sent the steak back. My dining companion, who... More >>
Chaat Room Chaat Room
The candy's dandy, but the veggies are even better at Bombay Sweets
, August 07, 2003
The plump Indian lady at the front counter of Bombay Sweets & Pure Vegetarian Restaurant on Hillcroft is shouting something across the... More >>
Food Fitness Center Food Fitness Center
Tofu comes with 'tude at the vegetarians' sterile Soya Cafe
, July 31, 2003
There are plenty of dense, chewy Chinese brown mushrooms tossed with the penne pasta. And just as I requested, the tomato sauce is heavily spiked... More >>
Sausage Delivery Systems Sausage Delivery Systems
Find the golden crown of The Sausage King at Candelari's Pizzeria
, July 24, 2003
The pizza crust was crispy with big yeast bubbles. The tomato sauce was spicy. And the loose Italian sausage spread over the top was kicking up... More >>
All-You-Can-Eat Bait All-You-Can-Eat Bait
At this sushi buffet, the lobster is gone Todai. Will it be here tomorrow?
, July 17, 2003
There are 40 kinds of sushi on display at Todai, the upscale Japanese seafood buffet restaurant in the Marq*E Entertainment Center on the Katy... More >>
Upscale Hospital Food Upscale Hospital Food
The Med Center’s Trevísio may be frequented by surgeons, but that doesn’t mean the food is cutting-edge.
, July 10, 2003
The waterfall has been broken for months. It used to flow over a glass wall in the lobby of Trevísio, the huge and lavish restaurant in the... More >>
Summer Breakfast Strategy Summer Breakfast Strategy
Waffling is one of the hot-weather defenses dished up at the venerable Frank's Grill
, July 03, 2003
It's 6:30 a.m., and the breakfast shift at Frank's Grill on Telephone Road has already been at it for an hour and a half. The head chef is... More >>
Forgiving Fertitta Forgiving Fertitta
Is Tilman's awesome new restaurant reason enough?
, June 26, 2003
The martini is icy, the club chair is plush, Frank Sinatra is crooning on the sound system, and on the flat-screen TV the Astros are slaughtering... More >>
Jammin' Jellyfish Jammin' Jellyfish
Cuttle up to some tasty fish at this heavenly Vietnamese hideaway
, June 19, 2003
First, you squeeze the lemon into the saucer that contains the salt, pepper and preserved plum powder. Then you snatch up a hot square of fried... More >>
1 Fish, 2 Fish, Red Fish... 1 Fish, 2 Fish, Red Fish...
"Deep-fried madness" delights the red-hot sushi crowd at Blue Fish House
, June 12, 2003
If the rolled-up tuna were a hot dog bun, then the asparagus would be a foot-long wiener sticking out of it at both ends. The odd-shaped creation... More >>
Le Fracas Français Le Fracas Français
Boycott is the only bad taste at Chez Nous
, June 05, 2003
Domaine de Mourchon is a Côtes du Rhône village red with an inky color and the sort of concentrated fruit and intense flavor you'd expect from a... More >>
The War with Chirac The War with Chirac
Guerin's Bistro fights the good fight while anti-French sentiment swirls about Houston and the United States
, May 29, 2003
The coarse-ground pork pâté looks like meat loaf studded with walnuts. We eat chunks of it on hot crisp bread that's fresh out of the pizza oven,... More >>
Food Art Food Art
Get sauced at the Hobby Center's Artista. It's divine.
, May 22, 2003
At Artista, the extraordinary new restaurant in the Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, dinner comes as three discrete elements on a... More >>
Chipotle off the Old Block Chipotle off the Old Block
Austin's Serranos Café and Cantina tries out its Tex-Mex on Houston
, May 15, 2003
Just like the old-fashioned Tex-Mex version, Serranos' cheese enchiladas are crispy on the ends and covered with chile gravy. But unlike the... More >>
Ice Cream Sandwich Ice Cream Sandwich
Nundini Food Store's panini are good, but their gelati are great
, May 08, 2003
"Which flavor do you want to try?" asks the manager of the Nundini deli on North Shepherd in the Heights. He's standing behind ten colorful vats... More >>
Bigger and Battered Bigger and Battered
Where does Baytown Seafood get those enormous shrimp?
, May 01, 2003
The pile of fried shrimp looks like a mountain of corn flakes. I pick one up and admire how the golden batter has formed a crunchy, irregular... More >>
Wednesday Brunch Wednesday Brunch
Golden Palace is Houston's top weekday dim sum destination
, April 24, 2003
Steam rises from the translucent shrimp dumpling (No. 55). The seductive morsel reclines enticingly on my plate, plump, juicy and too hot to eat.... More >>
Wall of Flavor Wall of Flavor
Phil Spector has got nothing on the Little Karachi neighborhood's La Sani Restaurant
, April 17, 2003
There is no polite way to suck a goat bone. And the goat korma masala at La Sani is served in the authentic fashion, bones and all. So at some... More >>
Wet Noodle Wet Noodle
Spaghetti marinara is pretty hard to mess up, but they've found a way at Palazzo's Italian Café
, April 10, 2003
Where are sliced tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic and basil on the "margherita" side and diced tomatoes, garlic, red onion, lemon and basil on the... More >>
Bibim Bap's Rap Bibim Bap's Rap
, April 03, 2003
Four rolled-up balls of cold shredded vegetables sit in the bottom of the bowl under a fried egg. Rumor has it there's some beef in there... More >>
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