Restaurant Reviews

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South American Spaghetti South American Spaghetti
Giannotti's serves up pasta and yerba mate
, January 01, 2004
The spaghetti isn't round; it's square and cut thick, like homemade noodles. Maybe it doesn't look like regular spaghetti, but as I slurp another... More >>
Sparkling Leftovers Sparkling Leftovers
The five top-scoring champagne cocktails ranked on a scale of 1 to 10
, December 25, 2003
Put a couple of drops of good old Angostura bitters on a sugar cube. Drop the cube in your champagne flute, fill the glass with bubbly and... More >>
Ancient Eggplant Ancient Eggplant
Ephesus Grill may be a new restaurant, but its cuisine is from way back in the day
, December 18, 2003
The floor of the hutlike enclosure is covered with sheepskins, and its walls are of rough-hewn wood. I recline against a pillow covered in a red... More >>
Come Back  to Sorrento Come Back to Sorrento
The latest addition to the "Restaurant District" on lower Westheimer is a gem
, December 11, 2003
Since Houston now has a Museum District and a Theater District, perhaps the stretch of lower Westheimer between Bagby and Shepherd, with its high... More >>
Cosmopolitan Confit Cosmopolitan Confit
Chef Edelberto Gonçalves has cooked up a hot spot
, December 04, 2003
A skinny guy with a blond bouffant hairdo and a calf-length black mink coat swoops into the bar at Rouge, where my dining companion and I are... More >>
Stinky Food Stinky Food
The fermented tofu at Taiwanese Cuisine makes even our fearless food critic gag
, November 27, 2003
The bite-size cubes of fried tofu look innocuous. They might be little squares of corn bread or fried polenta. Then I pick up the plate and take... More >>
Tamale Morning Tamale Morning
Bring your own coffee to Doña Tere and feast on a great breakfast
, November 20, 2003
On Saturday morning at 10:30, there are around a dozen people eating tamales and drinking atole in the steamy little restaurant called Doña Tere... More >>
Slow Down for Crabs Slow Down for Crabs
Blue Water Seafood's got a wonderfully crusty coastal feel
, November 13, 2003
Our order of six blue crabs arrives just as King of the Hill starts. My daughter Julia and I are seated at a table out on the porch of Blue Water... More >>
My Pork  Belly Future My Pork Belly Future
Mi Pueblito is a restaurant for Colombians who miss home, but gringos will still enjoy its fare -- especially the chewy pork bits
, November 06, 2003
The wooden bowl full of warm milk, poached eggs and white bread comes with a slice of queso fresco on the side. You tear up the cheese and... More >>
Houston Vice Houston Vice
Vizio can't seem to keep ingredients in stock -- even on slow nights
, October 30, 2003
It wouldn't be unreasonable to expect good things from Vizio. Before opening the restaurant, its chef and owner, Tommaso Lestingi, spent seven... More >>
Vic's Backyard Bar-B-Q Barn serves great links and ribs, but its owner isn't from around here
, October 23, 2003
On my way to host the Houston Press Restaurant Radio Show one Friday afternoon, I stopped by Vic's Backyard Bar-B-Q Barn on Fondren and grabbed... More >>
Cancún Cuisine Cancún Cuisine
Take a little trip to Cascadas Cantina y Restaurante
, October 16, 2003
Water cascades over the glistening ersatz stones of a 12-foot-high waterfall while palm trees sway in the gentle evening breeze. Beneath the... More >>
A Tale of  Two Critics A Tale of Two Critics
The coffee is strong and the pastries are excellent, but Le Bec Fin isn't your typical French cafe
, October 09, 2003
"The french fries are awful," Alison Cook whispers. I pick one up off her plate and eat it. She's trying the chicken wings and french fries at Le... More >>
Frankincense and Popcorn Frankincense and Popcorn
Coffee and conversation at Blue Nile
, October 02, 2003
Our hostess spoons frankincense resin over a red-hot charcoal briquette in the ceremonial burner on our table, and a cloud of fragrant smoke... More >>
Pavlovian Pork Chops Pavlovian Pork Chops
The soul food steam table at J.J.'s Cafe skips your brain and talks directly to your stomach
, September 25, 2003
Ordering from a menu is an exercise in semiotics. You decipher what a restaurant serves by wading through a system of often meaningless symbols... More >>
Up for a Spin Up for a Spin
At Spindletop, it's the view, not the food, that dazzles
, September 18, 2003
Close your eyes in Spindletop's circular dining room and you can barely feel the motion. It's like a slow, "clutch in" drift backward during... More >>
Bordering on Bennigan's
Is Morgan's on Montrose just an unfortunate chain reaction?
, September 11, 2003
At Morgan's on Montrose, the restaurant that has replaced the Redwood Grill, the Asian tuna salad comes on a pale green rectangular plate. The... More >>
Mexico City Tex-Mex Mexico City Tex-Mex
What is Las Llardas's little secret?
, September 04, 2003
Tlacoyos turn out to be fried pielike ovals of masa dough filled with beans and then baked. There are three of them on the plate, covered with... More >>
Only 200 Served Only 200 Served
Burgers become the best of barbecue at Guy's Meat Market
, August 28, 2003
You like hamburgers?" plumber Bill Beatty asks me conspiratorially as we stand in line at Guy's Meat Market on Old Spanish Trail. It's not yet... More >>
Barbecued Squid Barbecued Squid
A special dish scores as the Seoul food of Korea Garden
, August 21, 2003
The squid was just an afterthought. The bulgogi (marinated rib eye) and bulgalbi (marinated boneless short ribs) would probably have been plenty... More >>
History's at Steak History's at Steak
, August 14, 2003
There is a pleasant aroma inside Brenner's Steakhouse and it isn't my medium-rare New York strip: I sent the steak back. My dining companion, who... More >>
Chaat Room Chaat Room
The candy's dandy, but the veggies are even better at Bombay Sweets
, August 07, 2003
The plump Indian lady at the front counter of Bombay Sweets & Pure Vegetarian Restaurant on Hillcroft is shouting something across the... More >>
Food Fitness Center Food Fitness Center
Tofu comes with 'tude at the vegetarians' sterile Soya Cafe
, July 31, 2003
There are plenty of dense, chewy Chinese brown mushrooms tossed with the penne pasta. And just as I requested, the tomato sauce is heavily spiked... More >>
Sausage Delivery Systems Sausage Delivery Systems
Find the golden crown of The Sausage King at Candelari's Pizzeria
, July 24, 2003
The pizza crust was crispy with big yeast bubbles. The tomato sauce was spicy. And the loose Italian sausage spread over the top was kicking up... More >>
All-You-Can-Eat Bait All-You-Can-Eat Bait
At this sushi buffet, the lobster is gone Todai. Will it be here tomorrow?
, July 17, 2003
There are 40 kinds of sushi on display at Todai, the upscale Japanese seafood buffet restaurant in the Marq*E Entertainment Center on the Katy... More >>
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