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Bibim Bap's Rap Bibim Bap's Rap
, April 03, 2003
Four rolled-up balls of cold shredded vegetables sit in the bottom of the bowl under a fried egg. Rumor has it there's some beef in there... More >>
Chuck E.-nese Cuisine Chuck E.-nese Cuisine
Taiko
, March 27, 2003
The head sushi chef leans over his work station to hear my whispered request. "This young lady over here wants to try sushi for the first time,"... More >>
Dinner and Darts Dinner and Darts
The Rivendell Bar & Grille
, March 20, 2003
When we first enter The Rivendell Bar & Grille, we walk by two women who are talking intently on a big sofa by the front door. One has her legs... More >>
Katy Pie Katy Pie
Pizza Bella
, March 13, 2003
Roma tomatoes sliced thin lengthwise, a smattering of fresh basil leaves and a little garlic over olive oil -- these are the only toppings on the... More >>
Whirled Cuisine Whirled Cuisine
Farrago
, March 06, 2003
A half-pound of medium-rare Black Angus hamburger meat smothered in melting Gorgonzola and topped with a pile of wispy batter-fried onions sits... More >>
Gem on Jones Gem on Jones
Get to A Taste of Portugal before Tony Vallone tells everybody about it
, February 27, 2003
A large party at the front of the restaurant is getting a lot of attention. A Taste of Portugal's chef jokes with them as he carries dishes out... More >>
Say Cheez Say Cheez
An ode to the stuff that makes Jake's Philly Steaks
, February 20, 2003
The Villanova, Temple and Penn State pennants on the wall give me a good feeling about Jake's Philly Steaks. Even more reassuring is the souvenir... More >>
Teachings of the Pope Teachings of the Pope
Learning to love Boulevard Bistrot
, February 13, 2003
We're still shivering when the waitress brings our menus. Maybe it's the January chill that causes us both to want the dish called winter curry,... More >>
Dining by Demographic Dining by Demographic
Fleming's Prime Steakhouse serves up excellent renditions of the nation's most average food and wine preferences
, February 06, 2003
Our waiter stops by and moves his lips. The noise level in the packed dining room at Fleming's, the new steak house on Alabama, is so high that... More >>
Taiwan's Tapioca Attack Taiwan's Tapioca Attack
Bubble tea goes mainstream
, January 30, 2003
The young Asian woman behind the counter at Lollicup whips up my jasmine tea and my date's mango slushy at blinding speed. "Tapioca?" she... More >>
Goat Doughnuts Go Global Goat Doughnuts Go Global
The Hot Breads franchise serves unique pastries to a worldwide audience
, January 23, 2003
The sky is deep blue and bright outside the plate-glass window at Hot Breads bakery on Hillcroft. On the shopping center sidewalk, a young man... More >>
Globalization's McBacklash Globalization's McBacklash
Guatemala’s Pollo Campero has American fast-food franchises running scared
, January 16, 2003
At 11:52 a.m., I ease into the line of cars waiting to pull in to the parking lot of the new fried chicken franchise Pollo Campero. The traffic... More >>
New Digs, Old Tricks New Digs, Old Tricks
The Riviera Grill has moved downtown, but it doesn't know how to make an urban statement
, January 09, 2003
In 1924, the year the Sam Houston Hotel first opened, Damon Runyon was America's best-read journalist. With an incredible eye for detail, Runyon... More >>
Feeling Lucky? Feeling Lucky?
Score big at the Lucky Pot noodle shop
, January 02, 2003
It's lunchtime and all ten tables at the Lucky Pot noodle shop are taken. Aside from me and my dining companion, the only other Anglo in the... More >>
Mexican, Straight Up Mexican, Straight Up
Pondering the similarities between rock and roll and Mexican food at Hugo's
, December 26, 2002
"Rock and roll is like Mexican food. As it improves in quality it stops being what it is," wrote Dave Hickey in The Village Voice in 1975. I... More >>
Not That Turkey Not That Turkey
Where have all the Turkish restaurants been? Hiding in plain sight as "Mediterranean" cafes.
, December 19, 2002
Hot flatbread in one hand, knife in the other, I am poised to attack. But I hesitate, momentarily overwhelmed by the seductive excess before me.... More >>
Drink Pink Drink Pink
Rosé champagnes compete in our third annual sparkler shoot-out
, December 12, 2002
Delicious Mischief is the name of a radio program about food and wine on KRTS 92.1 FM. It's also an apt description of the impish rascality... More >>
Mystery Meat Mystery Meat
Maverick's motto may be "Supper + Whiskey," but the restaurant doesn't always deliver on both counts
, December 05, 2002
The 28-ounce T-bone at Maverick Supper + Whiskey comes with a smear of red chile-flavored butter on top. That's it. No potatoes, no vegetables,... More >>
Tired of Turkey? Tired of Turkey?
Chef Wakasugi's sushi is designed to please the Texan palate
, November 28, 2002
Bright red and streaked with fat, the large slab of raw meat glistens invitingly. It looks like a quarter-inch-thick slice of raw filet mignon.... More >>
Come Fry with Me Come Fry with Me
Valdo's misses some connections on its culinary journey around the world, but it's right at home with Gulf Coast seafood
, November 21, 2002
When you cut into a fried green tomato slice at Valdo's Café, you can't help mopping up some of the overlapping puddles of warm red gravy, chunky... More >>
Sub Text Sub Text
Will Ponzo's or Jersey Mike's come out on top in our side-by-side submarine sandwich comparison?
, November 14, 2002
Ponzo's Original, the cold Italian sub offered at the new Midtown Italian takeout restaurant, comes with hard salami, cotto salami, mortadella... More >>
Forbidden City Food Forbidden City Food
Sometimes when a Chinese waiter says "not for you," he's right
, November 07, 2002
"Not frozen egg rolls, homemade egg rolls!" the proprietor of Peking Cuisine insists. I must have rolled my eyes a little when he said the lunch... More >>
The Nickel Burger The Nickel Burger
How is a falling-apart Fifth Ward joint turning out the best burgers in town? Adrian's has history.
, October 31, 2002
The TV is blaring, although the picture is mostly snow. While I wait for my order to be called, I slip into a ripped vinyl chair and stare at the... More >>
Buttery Beef on the Rock Buttery Beef on the Rock
Or, how to get full at a Japanese restaurant
, October 24, 2002
Each slice of ultra-fatty Kobe beef is about the size of two squares of a big Hershey's chocolate bar. At Azuma, the new Japanese-style... More >>
Moscow on the Bayou Moscow on the Bayou
A Muscovite Moulin Rouge in a westside strip mall? Welcome to The Russian Bear
, October 17, 2002
The voluptuous, dark-haired belly dancer is putting on an astonishing exhibition of muscle control. And I thought wiggling one ear at a time was... More >>
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