Restaurant Reviews

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Upscale Hospital Food Upscale Hospital Food
The Med Center’s Trevísio may be frequented by surgeons, but that doesn’t mean the food is cutting-edge.
, July 10, 2003
The waterfall has been broken for months. It used to flow over a glass wall in the lobby of Trevísio, the huge and lavish restaurant in the... More >>
Summer Breakfast Strategy Summer Breakfast Strategy
Waffling is one of the hot-weather defenses dished up at the venerable Frank's Grill
, July 03, 2003
It's 6:30 a.m., and the breakfast shift at Frank's Grill on Telephone Road has already been at it for an hour and a half. The head chef is... More >>
Forgiving Fertitta Forgiving Fertitta
Is Tilman's awesome new restaurant reason enough?
, June 26, 2003
The martini is icy, the club chair is plush, Frank Sinatra is crooning on the sound system, and on the flat-screen TV the Astros are slaughtering... More >>
Jammin' Jellyfish Jammin' Jellyfish
Cuttle up to some tasty fish at this heavenly Vietnamese hideaway
, June 19, 2003
First, you squeeze the lemon into the saucer that contains the salt, pepper and preserved plum powder. Then you snatch up a hot square of fried... More >>
1 Fish, 2 Fish, Red Fish... 1 Fish, 2 Fish, Red Fish...
"Deep-fried madness" delights the red-hot sushi crowd at Blue Fish House
, June 12, 2003
If the rolled-up tuna were a hot dog bun, then the asparagus would be a foot-long wiener sticking out of it at both ends. The odd-shaped creation... More >>
Le Fracas Français Le Fracas Français
Boycott is the only bad taste at Chez Nous
, June 05, 2003
Domaine de Mourchon is a Côtes du Rhône village red with an inky color and the sort of concentrated fruit and intense flavor you'd expect from a... More >>
The War with Chirac The War with Chirac
Guerin's Bistro fights the good fight while anti-French sentiment swirls about Houston and the United States
, May 29, 2003
The coarse-ground pork pâté looks like meat loaf studded with walnuts. We eat chunks of it on hot crisp bread that's fresh out of the pizza oven,... More >>
Food Art Food Art
Get sauced at the Hobby Center's Artista. It's divine.
, May 22, 2003
At Artista, the extraordinary new restaurant in the Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, dinner comes as three discrete elements on a... More >>
Chipotle off the Old Block Chipotle off the Old Block
Austin's Serranos Café and Cantina tries out its Tex-Mex on Houston
, May 15, 2003
Just like the old-fashioned Tex-Mex version, Serranos' cheese enchiladas are crispy on the ends and covered with chile gravy. But unlike the... More >>
Ice Cream Sandwich Ice Cream Sandwich
Nundini Food Store's panini are good, but their gelati are great
, May 08, 2003
"Which flavor do you want to try?" asks the manager of the Nundini deli on North Shepherd in the Heights. He's standing behind ten colorful vats... More >>
Bigger and Battered Bigger and Battered
Where does Baytown Seafood get those enormous shrimp?
, May 01, 2003
The pile of fried shrimp looks like a mountain of corn flakes. I pick one up and admire how the golden batter has formed a crunchy, irregular... More >>
Wednesday Brunch Wednesday Brunch
Golden Palace is Houston's top weekday dim sum destination
, April 24, 2003
Steam rises from the translucent shrimp dumpling (No. 55). The seductive morsel reclines enticingly on my plate, plump, juicy and too hot to eat.... More >>
Wall of Flavor Wall of Flavor
Phil Spector has got nothing on the Little Karachi neighborhood's La Sani Restaurant
, April 17, 2003
There is no polite way to suck a goat bone. And the goat korma masala at La Sani is served in the authentic fashion, bones and all. So at some... More >>
Wet Noodle Wet Noodle
Spaghetti marinara is pretty hard to mess up, but they've found a way at Palazzo's Italian Café
, April 10, 2003
Where are sliced tomatoes, mozzarella, garlic and basil on the "margherita" side and diced tomatoes, garlic, red onion, lemon and basil on the... More >>
Bibim Bap's Rap Bibim Bap's Rap
, April 03, 2003
Four rolled-up balls of cold shredded vegetables sit in the bottom of the bowl under a fried egg. Rumor has it there's some beef in there... More >>
Chuck E.-nese Cuisine Chuck E.-nese Cuisine
, March 27, 2003
The head sushi chef leans over his work station to hear my whispered request. "This young lady over here wants to try sushi for the first time,"... More >>
Dinner and Darts Dinner and Darts
The Rivendell Bar & Grille
, March 20, 2003
When we first enter The Rivendell Bar & Grille, we walk by two women who are talking intently on a big sofa by the front door. One has her legs... More >>
Katy Pie Katy Pie
Pizza Bella
, March 13, 2003
Roma tomatoes sliced thin lengthwise, a smattering of fresh basil leaves and a little garlic over olive oil -- these are the only toppings on the... More >>
Whirled Cuisine Whirled Cuisine
, March 06, 2003
A half-pound of medium-rare Black Angus hamburger meat smothered in melting Gorgonzola and topped with a pile of wispy batter-fried onions sits... More >>
Gem on Jones Gem on Jones
Get to A Taste of Portugal before Tony Vallone tells everybody about it
, February 27, 2003
A large party at the front of the restaurant is getting a lot of attention. A Taste of Portugal's chef jokes with them as he carries dishes out... More >>
Say Cheez Say Cheez
An ode to the stuff that makes Jake's Philly Steaks
, February 20, 2003
The Villanova, Temple and Penn State pennants on the wall give me a good feeling about Jake's Philly Steaks. Even more reassuring is the souvenir... More >>
Teachings of the Pope Teachings of the Pope
Learning to love Boulevard Bistrot
, February 13, 2003
We're still shivering when the waitress brings our menus. Maybe it's the January chill that causes us both to want the dish called winter curry,... More >>
Dining by Demographic Dining by Demographic
Fleming's Prime Steakhouse serves up excellent renditions of the nation's most average food and wine preferences
, February 06, 2003
Our waiter stops by and moves his lips. The noise level in the packed dining room at Fleming's, the new steak house on Alabama, is so high that... More >>
Taiwan's Tapioca Attack Taiwan's Tapioca Attack
Bubble tea goes mainstream
, January 30, 2003
The young Asian woman behind the counter at Lollicup whips up my jasmine tea and my date's mango slushy at blinding speed. "Tapioca?" she... More >>
Goat Doughnuts Go Global Goat Doughnuts Go Global
The Hot Breads franchise serves unique pastries to a worldwide audience
, January 23, 2003
The sky is deep blue and bright outside the plate-glass window at Hot Breads bakery on Hillcroft. On the shopping center sidewalk, a young man... More >>
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