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Deconstructing Sandwiches Deconstructing Sandwiches
Zinnante's makes great poor boys -- no matter how you eat them
, October 03, 2002
Ms. W removes one of the two fillets of fried catfish before she starts eating her poor boy. I almost choke on my overstuffed roast beef sub.... More >>
Dim Sum 101 Dim Sum 101
Dorothy Huang holds court at Ocean Palace
, September 26, 2002
Asian women in dark blue baseball caps and light blue shirts wheel shiny stainless-steel dim sum carts around the enormous upstairs dining room... More >>
Just Like in Mexico City Just Like in Mexico City
At Maria Selma, that can be a blessing or a curse
, September 19, 2002
My steak is covered with cactus. The oval prickly-pear pad has been grilled and cut partway through with long slits to make it easier to eat. It... More >>
The Eel Thing The Eel Thing
Looking for a veteran sushi chef who'll actually talk to you? Chef Toda's your man.
, September 12, 2002
Chef Tatsumi Toda's secret unagi recipe involves a slow-cooked, sweetened black sake and soy sauce, but that's all I can get out of him.... More >>
Where's Chango? Where's Chango?
The "San Phillipy" set swears by Tony Vallone's first Mexican restaurant, but don't go looking for authenticity
, September 05, 2002
"They could turn it into a game, like Where's Waldo?" Ms. W suggests as she sips her margarita. "See how many monkeys you can find. Kids would... More >>
Peking Order Peking Order
Golden Duck may look a little too much like the Mexican restaurant it once was, but what a deal on duck
, August 29, 2002
Chef Jian Gang Liu of Golden Duck restaurant humbly displays our freshly roasted Peking duck as he prepares to slice it tableside. There is... More >>
Pro-Choice Pro-Choice
Just because you don't eat meat, that doesn't mean you don't want options -- and Tien Ren's got them
, August 22, 2002
Here's a textbook example of what vegetarians love to complain about: I'm at my cousin's house for a family barbecue. Through some miracle of... More >>
The Family Formula The Family Formula
It's just another Tuesday night at Lopez Mexican Restaurant
, August 15, 2002
Ask any restaurateur, and they'll tell you that Tuesday is a painfully slow night. Carefree weekend celebrations are either forgotten or as yet... More >>
How Do You Take It? How Do You Take It?
Our intrepid driving diner discovers the Bright & Early Coffee stand and why Houstonians like their brew weak
, August 08, 2002
There's an awful lot of cellophane wrapped around the banana nut muffin I just bought at the Bright & Early Coffee drive-through stand at the... More >>
Roll Your Own Roll Your Own
Saigon Pagolac's DIY Vietnamese fajitas may be a lot of work, but they're worth it
, August 01, 2002
"Lunch Specials from $2.95," reads the lettering near the door of Saigon Pagolac. As promised, the little lunch menu is loaded with bargains, but... More >>
The Great White Pizza The Great White Pizza
At La Barmigiana, the decor may be tacky, but the pizza is divine
, July 25, 2002
Kamal Alnasleh throws another log on the fire. The owner and head chef of La Barmigiana is preparing the melanzane pizza I ordered. This is my... More >>
Dog Days Dog Days
How to find a real Chicago hot dog without flying to O'Hare
, July 18, 2002
As I bite into the Chicago-style dog at James Coney Island, the natural casing on the all-beef frank squeaks and pops, the sport pepper bursts,... More >>
When Jeffrey Met Thelma When Jeffrey Met Thelma
A Vogue foodie takes on an East Texas mess o' meat
, July 11, 2002
The brisket at Thelma's Bar-B-Que on Live Oak has a tasty black char on the top, but the inside is slick with juice and as tender as the white... More >>
Gooooaaaal! Gooooaaaal!
Emporio Brazilian Café scores with home cooking
, July 04, 2002
I'm staring at my plate in anticipation. There's a short tower of rice, a stack of shredded collard greens, a mound of toasted crumbs, and all... More >>
The Durian Dare The Durian Dare
At sumptuous Ba Ky, the beer's on ice, the durian is stinky, and the food is great
, June 27, 2002
The waitress puts a Heineken and a tall pilsner glass full of ice in front of me, and I pour the beer over the rocks. My brother Scott rolls his... More >>
Hotter  than Halal Hotter than Halal
Islamic fusion restaurants are all the rage because of their organic meat -- and whole chiles
, June 20, 2002
K.C. Perez, the proprietor and head waiter of the Spicy Foods Halal-Chinese restaurant on Hillcroft, is a stout Pakistani who looks a lot like... More >>
The Barbecue Ward The Barbecue Ward
The no-nonsense Kozy Kitchen is the last remnant of the Nickel's once-proud barbecue tradition
, June 13, 2002
The walls of Kozy Kitchen Bar-B-Que on Lockwood were green once, but a patina of smoke has tinged them brown. The orange vinyl booths are... More >>
Dharma and John Dharma and John
Dharma Cafe has atmosphere to spare and a lot of good home cooking, but you might want to pass on the pizza
, June 06, 2002
The guy with the not-so-recently shaved head, the little round designer glasses and the blue oxford shirt must have surveyed the patio of Dharma... More >>
Okra Worship Okra Worship
Pearl's serves up real food for the soul; Fusion Café brings a little soul to Rice Village
, May 30, 2002
The fried plantain slices at Fusion Café are laid out like the spokes of a wheel, with a colorful tropical salsa at the hub. The crisp flavors of... More >>
There's Something About Larry's There's Something About Larry's
What makes the enchiladas so great in Texas's Twin Cities?
, May 23, 2002
Neon beer signs glow brightly in the cool darkness of Larry's, a vintage Mexican restaurant in Richmond. It's a blazing hot afternoon, and I sit... More >>
Midtown's New Attitude Midtown's New Attitude
Blowfish has a brilliant chef with bad manners
, May 16, 2002
The little black tablecloths and the giant red lipstick columns make my heart beat faster every time I walk into Blowfish. The high dividers... More >>
Planet Hemingway Planet Hemingway
Floridita has a cute concept. Is there anything wrong with that?
, May 09, 2002
Floridita's double daiquiri is heavy, the glass frost-rimmed. I gaze into the liquid greenness just below the frapped top, and it reminds me of... More >>
Duck Soup Duck Soup
The fancy French food or the fizzy water? What to trust at Papillon.
, May 02, 2002
We're heaping spoonfuls of tuna tartare onto slices of baguette like a sushi spread and washing it down with crisp Roederer Estate sparkling... More >>
Asian Cajuns Asian Cajuns
At the Vietnamese-American-owned Cajun Corner, Louisiana mudbugs get a dose of special sauce
, April 25, 2002
While I'm waiting for a couple of pounds of boiled crawfish at Cajun Corner restaurant, I notice a young Vietnamese-American guy approach the... More >>
Short Courtship Short Courtship
A whirlwind romance with The Little Havana
, April 18, 2002
Wearing a white guayabera shirt and black pants, our waitress delivers a menu decorated with a photo of Desi Arnaz talking on the phone while... More >>
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