Restaurant Reviews

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The Aroma of Authenticity The Aroma of Authenticity
El Hidalguense makes its Long Point neighbor seem downright American
, May 10, 2001
When you walk in the front door of El Hidalguense, the scent of mutton commands your attention. Or is it goat? The restaurant's specialties are... More >>
Blockbuster Fare Blockbuster Fare
Crowd-pleasing Pesce serves food Spielberg-style
, May 03, 2001
A large martini glass is filled with a seafood slaw made with shredded napa cabbage, jumbo lump crab, lobster meat, chopped shrimp, avocado and... More >>
Folk Art on Bread Folk Art on Bread
Yes, we visited that Original New Orleans Po' Boy
, April 26, 2001
The skinny flute of bread is split in half and toasted, always a good sign. "Do you want your oysters well done?" asks the woman behind the... More >>
Bombay Beach Memoirs Bombay Beach Memoirs
Lunch with Darayus Kolah
, April 19, 2001
Koliwada is a Sikh neighborhood on the outskirts of Bombay where men in turbans set up food stalls every night, and people gather in the open air... More >>
Still Your Father's Tony's Still Your Father's Tony's
When Tony's gets rid of its outdated attitudes, we'll have some reason to go back
, April 12, 2001
Two smiling men in black bow ties are violently agitating tiny silver shakers. They uncap them simultaneously and pour martinis into our stemmed... More >>
The Inkblot Test The Inkblot Test
Do you prefer old greasy diners? Or imitations of old greasy dinners?
, April 05, 2001
There are eight customers in the Triple A Restaurant at 10:30 in the morning; all of them are men, and four sport comb-overs. The wood-grain... More >>
Hip Parade Hip Parade
There are better places for Middle Eastern food, but none of them is this much fun
, March 29, 2001
Smoke rises in a cloud above the hookah smoker's head. In front of him, a belly dancer in a blue-fringed bra moves her head from side to side... More >>
Show Time! Show Time!
While your mouth hangs open in awe at Zula's decorations, you might as well stuff Zula's fine food in it
, March 22, 2001
Even if the menu offered nothing of substance, it would be worth a visit to Zula just to look at the place. When it opened in the historic St.... More >>
House of the Rising Sun House of the Rising Sun
The stars align at Scott Tycer's Aries
, March 15, 2001
The pretty people waiting for a table won't step outside because it's pouring rain, but they won't back up to let us in, either. There is no... More >>
Beefing Up the Coach Beefing Up the Coach
Dom Capers takes on Texan barbecue for the first time
, March 08, 2001
Dom Capers can't believe how long the line is at Goode Co. Barbeque. And I can't believe that this is the first time the head coach of our new... More >>
Stay Out of the Kitchen Stay Out of the Kitchen
Catch the fish before it gets to the kitchen
, March 01, 2001
St. Pete's Pasta Diablo is one big bowl of noodles. The mountain of linguine is higher than the rim of the bowl. I think it's supposed to look... More >>
The Feng Shui of Dim Sum The Feng Shui of Dim Sum
Stay close to the kitchen if you want the best food at Kim Son.
, February 22, 2001
The yellow dragon rears back on his hind legs and opens his jaws wide while an ominous drumroll thunders through the room. The monster leaps into... More >>
Where the Home Fires Really Burn Where the Home Fires Really Burn
Vung Thai Cafe serves the food your mom would make -- if she were Thai
, February 15, 2001
Bangkok and the Bayou City have something in common. There, as here, the best Thai food can be found in humble mom-and-pop restaurants where they... More >>
For the Love of Sauerkraut For the Love of Sauerkraut
Somehow a restaurant from the Black Forest finds its way to Midtown
, February 08, 2001
Chef John Schuster and his wife, Maria Nopper, ran a restaurant in the Black Forest of Germany. In a freak accident, a tornado picked up the... More >>
Split Personality Split Personality
Saba Blue Water Cafe serves up exciting dinners -- and boring lunches
, February 01, 2001
The booth with a view of the aquarium looks like a better bet than the table by the window at Saba Blue Water Cafe. On a Tuesday night in... More >>
On a Whim On a Whim
Tex-Mex adventures
, January 25, 2001
A shaft of winter sunlight strikes the cases of Joya soft drinks stacked five high in the front window of Gorditas Aguascalientes and lights up... More >>
Conditional Amore Conditional Amore
Best as a neighborhood joint
, January 18, 2001
The bruschetta is a do-it-yourself project at divino. This version of the Italian-restaurant staple features slices of grilled bread, naked but... More >>
Chicken-Fried Honor Chicken-Fried Honor
George's civic slur
, January 11, 2001
A steaming chicken-fried steak comes sliding down the stainless-steel bartop at Ouisie's Table and comes to rest below my nose. The golden-brown,... More >>
On the Waterfront On the Waterfront
Lunch with Rory Miggins
, January 04, 2001
The only heater in The Point Bar and Restaurant is a welded steel contraption that looks more like a barbecue smoker than a device designed to... More >>
Uncorking a Bargain Uncorking a Bargain
A champagne buyer's guide
, December 28, 2000
Reims, the Disneyland of bubbly, is the capital of the French Champagne district. Under the streets of this ancient metropolis, miles upon miles... More >>
Brave Nuevo World Brave Nuevo World
Last in a six-part series
, December 21, 2000
A Six-Part History of Tex-Mex In the good old days, Texans went to "Mexican restaurants" and ate "Mexican food." Then in 1972 The Cuisines of... More >>
Creole Country Creole Country
Cajun, New Orleans Creole and African-French Creole are three distinct cuisines.
, December 14, 2000
The turtle soup at Brennan's of Houston takes you on a magic carpet ride. From the moment the bowl of black stew hits the white linen, it... More >>
French Utopia French Utopia
Lunch with Joan Patrick
, December 07, 2000
In France, having a salad for lunch doesn't necessarily mean you are on a diet. For instance, the plate of greens with sautéed chicken livers and... More >>
Asian In-fusion Asian In-fusion
East meets West
, November 30, 2000
Smack! What was that sound? A waiter losing a tray? A table collapsing? Undomestic violence? I look around the restaurant to see what's... More >>
The French Connection The French Connection
Part 5 in the six-part history of Tex-Mex
, November 23, 2000
A Six-Part History of Tex-Mex In the good old days, Texans went to "Mexican Restaurants" and ate "Mexican food." Then in 1972, The Cuisines of... More >>
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From the Print Edition

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The <i>Pho</i>-ndamentals The Pho-ndamentals

Here, Eat This Vietnamese cuisine has become one of Houston's favorite over the past few decades — coinciding with the large influx of Vietnamese immigrants that began following the Vietnam War… More >>

<i>Todo con Queso</i> Todo con Queso

It's been more than a century since the first Tex-Mex restaurant opened in Houston. George Caldwell brought The Original Mexican Restaurant to our city in 1907, influenced — most agree… More >>

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