Restaurant Reviews

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Dog Days Dog Days
How to find a real Chicago hot dog without flying to O'Hare
, July 18, 2002
As I bite into the Chicago-style dog at James Coney Island, the natural casing on the all-beef frank squeaks and pops, the sport pepper bursts,... More >>
When Jeffrey Met Thelma When Jeffrey Met Thelma
A Vogue foodie takes on an East Texas mess o' meat
, July 11, 2002
The brisket at Thelma's Bar-B-Que on Live Oak has a tasty black char on the top, but the inside is slick with juice and as tender as the white... More >>
Gooooaaaal! Gooooaaaal!
Emporio Brazilian Café scores with home cooking
, July 04, 2002
I'm staring at my plate in anticipation. There's a short tower of rice, a stack of shredded collard greens, a mound of toasted crumbs, and all... More >>
The Durian Dare The Durian Dare
At sumptuous Ba Ky, the beer's on ice, the durian is stinky, and the food is great
, June 27, 2002
The waitress puts a Heineken and a tall pilsner glass full of ice in front of me, and I pour the beer over the rocks. My brother Scott rolls his... More >>
Hotter  than Halal Hotter than Halal
Islamic fusion restaurants are all the rage because of their organic meat -- and whole chiles
, June 20, 2002
K.C. Perez, the proprietor and head waiter of the Spicy Foods Halal-Chinese restaurant on Hillcroft, is a stout Pakistani who looks a lot like... More >>
The Barbecue Ward The Barbecue Ward
The no-nonsense Kozy Kitchen is the last remnant of the Nickel's once-proud barbecue tradition
, June 13, 2002
The walls of Kozy Kitchen Bar-B-Que on Lockwood were green once, but a patina of smoke has tinged them brown. The orange vinyl booths are... More >>
Dharma and John Dharma and John
Dharma Cafe has atmosphere to spare and a lot of good home cooking, but you might want to pass on the pizza
, June 06, 2002
The guy with the not-so-recently shaved head, the little round designer glasses and the blue oxford shirt must have surveyed the patio of Dharma... More >>
Okra Worship Okra Worship
Pearl's serves up real food for the soul; Fusion Café brings a little soul to Rice Village
, May 30, 2002
The fried plantain slices at Fusion Café are laid out like the spokes of a wheel, with a colorful tropical salsa at the hub. The crisp flavors of... More >>
There's Something About Larry's There's Something About Larry's
What makes the enchiladas so great in Texas's Twin Cities?
, May 23, 2002
Neon beer signs glow brightly in the cool darkness of Larry's, a vintage Mexican restaurant in Richmond. It's a blazing hot afternoon, and I sit... More >>
Midtown's New Attitude Midtown's New Attitude
Blowfish has a brilliant chef with bad manners
, May 16, 2002
The little black tablecloths and the giant red lipstick columns make my heart beat faster every time I walk into Blowfish. The high dividers... More >>
Planet Hemingway Planet Hemingway
Floridita has a cute concept. Is there anything wrong with that?
, May 09, 2002
Floridita's double daiquiri is heavy, the glass frost-rimmed. I gaze into the liquid greenness just below the frapped top, and it reminds me of... More >>
Duck Soup Duck Soup
The fancy French food or the fizzy water? What to trust at Papillon.
, May 02, 2002
We're heaping spoonfuls of tuna tartare onto slices of baguette like a sushi spread and washing it down with crisp Roederer Estate sparkling... More >>
Asian Cajuns Asian Cajuns
At the Vietnamese-American-owned Cajun Corner, Louisiana mudbugs get a dose of special sauce
, April 25, 2002
While I'm waiting for a couple of pounds of boiled crawfish at Cajun Corner restaurant, I notice a young Vietnamese-American guy approach the... More >>
Short Courtship Short Courtship
A whirlwind romance with The Little Havana
, April 18, 2002
Wearing a white guayabera shirt and black pants, our waitress delivers a menu decorated with a photo of Desi Arnaz talking on the phone while... More >>
Keep On Shuckin' Keep On Shuckin'
Live dangerously with the Double Dumbass Combo at Gilhooley's Raw Bar
, April 11, 2002
They put a couple of ice cubes on top of each raw oyster at Gilhooley's to keep it cold. I push the ice aside and squeeze a few drops of lemon... More >>
Paris Matched Paris Matched
Laurier Café is turning out Parisian bistro food at Paris, Texas, prices
, April 04, 2002
David Garrido hacks off a huge piece of steak and then uses the already loaded fork to stab a few crispy french fries. The Austin chef is an old... More >>
Thai Raid Thai Raid
In America, Thai dishes are being toned down. The Thai government wants to step in to stop it.
, March 28, 2002
Bangkok hot beef salad is a nest of lettuce topped with sizzling beef in a hot and tangy lemongrass sauce, says the menu at Blue Orchid. This... More >>
Better By Design Better By Design
Seven months and $3 million later, the eatery at the Four Seasons emerges even better than before
, March 21, 2002
When the Four Seasons began revamping its restaurant spaces last summer, two standbys of the hotel dining scene closed their doors forever. The... More >>
Pierogi Paradise Pierogi Paradise
Janina's Eastern European cooking satisfies even the pickiest Pole
, March 14, 2002
Franek tilts back his head and closes his eyes as he chews another ruskie pierogi. His beard is glistening with grease, and the hint of a smile... More >>
Inside Baseball at the Bistro Inside Baseball at the Bistro
Chef John Sheely's Mockingbird Bistro could end up as an inside-the-park home run
, March 07, 2002
My lunch partner starts giggling. Is it my deconstruction of the ham and cheese sandwich that's cracking her up? I've just told her that I think... More >>
Noodle-Gazing Noodle-Gazing
A five-part journey into Houston's fusion scene starts with some noodles
, February 28, 2002
The orange redang curry tastes something like the spicy peanut sauce you slather on sate. It's so thick and oily that you have to be careful when... More >>
French for Beginners French for Beginners
Le Mistral offers culture in a suburban strip shopping mall
, February 21, 2002
Our entrées are finished, and I still have a little wine left. We're drinking a bottle of Paul Jaboulet's Crozes Hermitage, a sturdy red wine... More >>
My Finny Valentine My Finny Valentine
Getting misty-eyed over creamed herring and sweet German beer at AnneMarie's Bistro
, February 14, 2002
The herring salad at AnneMarie's Bistro is very good, but you wouldn't expect a grown man to get all choked up about it. It's spread out on a bed... More >>
Supermodel Cuisine Supermodel Cuisine
Don't bring an appetite to hip new Ling and Javier. You may not be able to eat what you order.
, February 07, 2002
Ling must be the smiling Chinese gal in the big painting on the restaurant's wall. That would make the Cuban with the high collar in the other... More >>
Home of the Squealer Home of the Squealer
A bacon-packed burger that arteries loathe and taste buds love
, January 31, 2002
Bet you a beer the biker is going to get the Squealer. The guy with the Fu Manchu mustache and a blue bandanna on his head is sitting at a table... More >>
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Halfway through the meal, everyone in the restaurant was standing, leaning slightly forward, staring at one wall of the restaurant with expressions of mixed fear, anticipation and excitement. No one… More >>