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Restaurant Reviews
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The Aroma of Authenticity El Hidalguense makes its Long Point neighbor seem downright American
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May 10, 2001
When you walk in the front door of El Hidalguense, the scent of mutton commands your attention. Or is it goat? The restaurant's specialties are... More >>
Blockbuster Fare Crowd-pleasing Pesce serves food Spielberg-style
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May 03, 2001
A large martini glass is filled with a seafood slaw made with shredded napa cabbage, jumbo lump crab, lobster meat, chopped shrimp, avocado and... More >>
Folk Art on Bread Yes, we visited that Original New Orleans Po' Boy
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April 26, 2001
The skinny flute of bread is split in half and toasted, always a good sign. "Do you want your oysters well done?" asks the woman behind the... More >>
Bombay Beach Memoirs Lunch with Darayus Kolah
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April 19, 2001
Koliwada is a Sikh neighborhood on the outskirts of Bombay where men in turbans set up food stalls every night, and people gather in the open air... More >>
Still Your Father's Tony's When Tony's gets rid of its outdated attitudes, we'll have some reason to go back
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April 12, 2001
Two smiling men in black bow ties are violently agitating tiny silver shakers. They uncap them simultaneously and pour martinis into our stemmed... More >>
The Inkblot Test Do you prefer old greasy diners? Or imitations of old greasy dinners?
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April 05, 2001
There are eight customers in the Triple A Restaurant at 10:30 in the morning; all of them are men, and four sport comb-overs. The wood-grain... More >>
Hip Parade There are better places for Middle Eastern food, but none of them is this much fun
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March 29, 2001
Smoke rises in a cloud above the hookah smoker's head. In front of him, a belly dancer in a blue-fringed bra moves her head from side to side... More >>
Show Time! While your mouth hangs open in awe at Zula's decorations, you might as well stuff Zula's fine food in it
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March 22, 2001
Even if the menu offered nothing of substance, it would be worth a visit to Zula just to look at the place. When it opened in the historic St.... More >>
House of the Rising Sun The stars align at Scott Tycer's Aries
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March 15, 2001
The pretty people waiting for a table won't step outside because it's pouring rain, but they won't back up to let us in, either. There is no... More >>
Beefing Up the Coach Dom Capers takes on Texan barbecue for the first time
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March 08, 2001
Dom Capers can't believe how long the line is at Goode Co. Barbeque. And I can't believe that this is the first time the head coach of our new... More >>
Stay Out of the Kitchen Catch the fish before it gets to the kitchen
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March 01, 2001
St. Pete's Pasta Diablo is one big bowl of noodles. The mountain of linguine is higher than the rim of the bowl. I think it's supposed to look... More >>
The Feng Shui of Dim Sum Stay close to the kitchen if you want the best food at Kim Son.
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February 22, 2001
The yellow dragon rears back on his hind legs and opens his jaws wide while an ominous drumroll thunders through the room. The monster leaps into... More >>
Where the Home Fires Really Burn Vung Thai Cafe serves the food your mom would make -- if she were Thai
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February 15, 2001
Bangkok and the Bayou City have something in common. There, as here, the best Thai food can be found in humble mom-and-pop restaurants where they... More >>
For the Love of Sauerkraut Somehow a restaurant from the Black Forest finds its way to Midtown
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February 08, 2001
Chef John Schuster and his wife, Maria Nopper, ran a restaurant in the Black Forest of Germany. In a freak accident, a tornado picked up the... More >>
Split Personality Saba Blue Water Cafe serves up exciting dinners -- and boring lunches
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February 01, 2001
The booth with a view of the aquarium looks like a better bet than the table by the window at Saba Blue Water Cafe. On a Tuesday night in... More >>
On a Whim Tex-Mex adventures
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January 25, 2001
A shaft of winter sunlight strikes the cases of Joya soft drinks stacked five high in the front window of Gorditas Aguascalientes and lights up... More >>
Conditional Amore Best as a neighborhood joint
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January 18, 2001
The bruschetta is a do-it-yourself project at divino. This version of the Italian-restaurant staple features slices of grilled bread, naked but... More >>
Chicken-Fried Honor George's civic slur
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January 11, 2001
A steaming chicken-fried steak comes sliding down the stainless-steel bartop at Ouisie's Table and comes to rest below my nose. The golden-brown,... More >>
On the Waterfront Lunch with Rory Miggins
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January 04, 2001
The only heater in The Point Bar and Restaurant is a welded steel contraption that looks more like a barbecue smoker than a device designed to... More >>
Uncorking a Bargain A champagne buyer's guide
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December 28, 2000
Reims, the Disneyland of bubbly, is the capital of the French Champagne district. Under the streets of this ancient metropolis, miles upon miles... More >>
Brave Nuevo World Last in a six-part series
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December 21, 2000
A Six-Part History of Tex-Mex
In the good old days, Texans went to "Mexican restaurants" and ate "Mexican food." Then in 1972 The Cuisines of... More >>
Creole Country Cajun, New Orleans Creole and African-French Creole are three distinct cuisines.
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December 14, 2000
The turtle soup at Brennan's of Houston takes you on a magic carpet ride. From the moment the bowl of black stew hits the white linen, it... More >>
French Utopia Lunch with Joan Patrick
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December 07, 2000
In France, having a salad for lunch doesn't necessarily mean you are on a diet. For instance, the plate of greens with sautéed chicken livers and... More >>
Asian In-fusion East meets West
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November 30, 2000
Smack!
What was that sound? A waiter losing a tray? A table collapsing? Undomestic violence? I look around the restaurant to see what's... More >>
The French Connection Part 5 in the six-part history of Tex-Mex
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November 23, 2000
A Six-Part History of Tex-Mex
In the good old days, Texans went to "Mexican Restaurants" and ate "Mexican food." Then in 1972, The Cuisines of... More >>
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The 10 Best Downtown Restaurants
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Here, Eat This Vietnamese cuisine has become one of Houston's favorite over the past few decades — coinciding with the large influx of Vietnamese immigrants that began following the Vietnam War… More >>
Todo con Queso
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