Restaurant Reviews

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Keep On Shuckin' Keep On Shuckin'
Live dangerously with the Double Dumbass Combo at Gilhooley's Raw Bar
, April 11, 2002
They put a couple of ice cubes on top of each raw oyster at Gilhooley's to keep it cold. I push the ice aside and squeeze a few drops of lemon... More >>
Paris Matched Paris Matched
Laurier Café is turning out Parisian bistro food at Paris, Texas, prices
, April 04, 2002
David Garrido hacks off a huge piece of steak and then uses the already loaded fork to stab a few crispy french fries. The Austin chef is an old... More >>
Thai Raid Thai Raid
In America, Thai dishes are being toned down. The Thai government wants to step in to stop it.
, March 28, 2002
Bangkok hot beef salad is a nest of lettuce topped with sizzling beef in a hot and tangy lemongrass sauce, says the menu at Blue Orchid. This... More >>
Better By Design Better By Design
Seven months and $3 million later, the eatery at the Four Seasons emerges even better than before
, March 21, 2002
When the Four Seasons began revamping its restaurant spaces last summer, two standbys of the hotel dining scene closed their doors forever. The... More >>
Pierogi Paradise Pierogi Paradise
Janina's Eastern European cooking satisfies even the pickiest Pole
, March 14, 2002
Franek tilts back his head and closes his eyes as he chews another ruskie pierogi. His beard is glistening with grease, and the hint of a smile... More >>
Inside Baseball at the Bistro Inside Baseball at the Bistro
Chef John Sheely's Mockingbird Bistro could end up as an inside-the-park home run
, March 07, 2002
My lunch partner starts giggling. Is it my deconstruction of the ham and cheese sandwich that's cracking her up? I've just told her that I think... More >>
Noodle-Gazing Noodle-Gazing
A five-part journey into Houston's fusion scene starts with some noodles
, February 28, 2002
The orange redang curry tastes something like the spicy peanut sauce you slather on sate. It's so thick and oily that you have to be careful when... More >>
French for Beginners French for Beginners
Le Mistral offers culture in a suburban strip shopping mall
, February 21, 2002
Our entrées are finished, and I still have a little wine left. We're drinking a bottle of Paul Jaboulet's Crozes Hermitage, a sturdy red wine... More >>
My Finny Valentine My Finny Valentine
Getting misty-eyed over creamed herring and sweet German beer at AnneMarie's Bistro
, February 14, 2002
The herring salad at AnneMarie's Bistro is very good, but you wouldn't expect a grown man to get all choked up about it. It's spread out on a bed... More >>
Supermodel Cuisine Supermodel Cuisine
Don't bring an appetite to hip new Ling and Javier. You may not be able to eat what you order.
, February 07, 2002
Ling must be the smiling Chinese gal in the big painting on the restaurant's wall. That would make the Cuban with the high collar in the other... More >>
Home of the Squealer Home of the Squealer
A bacon-packed burger that arteries loathe and taste buds love
, January 31, 2002
Bet you a beer the biker is going to get the Squealer. The guy with the Fu Manchu mustache and a blue bandanna on his head is sitting at a table... More >>
The new TV dinner: Droubi's in the belly and belly dancing on the boob tube
, January 24, 2002
Gaping at the television, I knock my water glass over with my elbow and make a mess all over the table -- exactly the sort of thing I was trying... More >>
Fat City Fat City
Vegetarian soul food? Naturally Yours serves up "buffalo things" and smothered steaklet
, January 17, 2002
The chalkboard menu above the bar at Naturally Yours Café includes a lot of Southern dishes you don't usually see in health food restaurants:... More >>
Raw Talent Raw Talent
Chef Kubo is the best sushi man in town -- ask anyone
, January 10, 2002
Chef Kubo's knife is flying. I've ordered chirashi, which the menu describes as eight kinds of sashimi over sushi rice. I have heard that Kubo... More >>
Slim Comfort Slim Comfort
Has the Daily Review Cafe succeeded at staying the same?
, January 03, 2002
The anemic macaroni and cheese, crusted with its clever little bread crumbs, ruins the whole thing. What were they thinking? It was such a great... More >>
The Way We Were The Way We Were
After nearly 20 years in Houston, Dong Ting slides into mediocrity
, December 27, 2001
The striking, high-ceilinged dining room of Dong Ting has held a special mystery for Houston diners over the years. The mirrored columns and wood... More >>
Gen Xmas Gen Xmas
What's a lonely Jew to do on Christmas? Nosh on kosher vegetarian Indian food at Udupi Cafe.
, December 20, 2001
The tan and blistered bread balloon doesn't fit on the plate very well. Bigger than a football, it has a weird, formerly animate quality -- like... More >>
Under $5 Under $5
Darband Shish Kabob is as cheap as McDonald's, but that's about the only similarity
, December 13, 2001
"Under $25" is the title of Eric Asimov's column about inexpensive restaurants in The New York Times. I have often mused that if we wanted to do... More >>
Pasta Perfect Pasta Perfect
At Fabio's, the atmosphere and the Alfredo sauce are old clichés. But so is "Mom's apple pie," and it's still good.
, December 06, 2001
Fabio Molano is talking on the phone. It's a pretty animated conversation, and he's speaking Spanish. Paul Galvani and I are sitting at the... More >>
Blind Drunk Blind Drunk
The palates of our staffers don't discriminate by price
, November 29, 2001
Freixenet Cordon Negro is cheap. You could buy three of the familiar black bottles for less than what you'd pay for an inexpensive French... More >>
The Bambi Syndrome The Bambi Syndrome
Texas is overrun with native whitetails, so why do restaurants have to buy their venison from game farms?
, November 22, 2001
The medium-rare Axis venison medallions, hearty wild boar and grilled quail are set off perfectly by an earthy mushroom sauce and tart cranberry... More >>
Six Flags over China Six Flags over China
Qin Dynasty puts a Disney spin on Chinese cuisine
, November 15, 2001
A fierce clay warrior stands guard over a grand piano in the foyer of Qin Dynasty restaurant. The statue is a replica of a terra-cotta soldier,... More >>
Odd Couple Odd Couple
Despite naysayers, the Breakfast Klub makes the marriage of chicken and waffles work
, November 08, 2001
Six fried chicken wings encircle the round "Belgian" waffle dusted with powdered sugar. The Breakfast Klub's chicken is hot and crusty, and so... More >>
Cafe sans Society Cafe sans Society
Café Compliqé welcomes diners from every walk of life
, November 01, 2001
A man in a gray sleeveless T-shirt and striped shorts carries a plastic basket full of neatly folded laundry down the sidewalk in front of my... More >>
Patriotic Excess Patriotic Excess
Luxurious Vallone’s most interesting new menu items arean early casualty of the war
, October 25, 2001
Where were you when the president warned us that terrorists were trying to keep us from shopping? I am proud to say that I was drinking a slushy... More >>
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