Restaurant Reviews

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Kirby Kong Kirby Kong
Exotic Hong Kong-style seafood inside the Loop
, October 18, 2001
The golden spot sand bass is fried in a crunchy batter with its side fins sticking straight out like wings. Perched on the platter of spicy... More >>
Chicken Run Chicken Run
Try the Third Ward Creole fried-chicken shack taste test for yourself
, October 11, 2001
Sitting at a long, shiny stainless-steel table outside Frenchy's Chicken, my daughter Julia and I juggle three pieces of too-hot-to-eat fried... More >>
American Kobe American Kobe
Lynn's Steakhouse proves a few restaurants still serve up USDA Prime
, October 04, 2001
The baseball-sized filet mignon is so streaked with fat, it looks like it's been painted with white stripes. It sits in the middle of the... More >>
For a Good Time, Call… For a Good Time, Call…
Diners at Garson can now feast on Persian food without being hit on
, September 27, 2001
"You'll never believe what just happened while I was in the bathroom," Sonia says when she comes back to the table. She seems a little miffed. We... More >>
Desperately Seeking Sandwiches Desperately Seeking Sandwiches
With Givral's temporarily out of commission, Houstonians scramble to get their banh mi thit fix
, September 20, 2001
The glass is tinted dark, and the paint above the window is peeling. The Thiem Hung Vietnamese sandwich shop looks pretty shabby from the... More >>
Postmodern Punjabi Postmodern Punjabi
Restaurant Indika takes Punjabi cooking to a whole new level
, September 13, 2001
A large painting on the wall at Restaurant Indika depicts Indian musicians with sitars and tablas in an anachronistic cubist style. You don't see... More >>
Blue Crab Standard Time Blue Crab Standard Time
Take your time when eating Gulf blue crabs
, September 06, 2001
The sun is getting ready to plunge into East Galveston Bay. The slanting light casts a pink glow on the platter of barbecued crabs in front of... More >>
Aging  with Grace  (and Science) Aging with Grace (and Science)
American steaks: second of a three-part series
, August 30, 2001
The drab industrial decor at Greenbriar Chophouse blends in perfectly with its office-building location next door to Kinko's, but it doesn't... More >>
Shellfish Behavior Shellfish Behavior
Dining ethics are more clouded when a giant lobster is involved
, August 23, 2001
The three-and-a-half-pound lobster is seductively presented with the tail cut into easily accessible halves, the massive claws pre-cracked, and... More >>
Bagels Rip My Flesh Bagels Rip My Flesh
New York Coffee Shop offers authentic East Coast fare -- complete with attitude
, August 16, 2001
"What the fuck are you doing taking notes in my business?" seethes Jay Kornhaber, co-owner of New York Coffee Shop, as he grabs my notebook from... More >>
La Bonne Vie Outside  the Loop La Bonne Vie Outside the Loop
Bistro Le Cep offers up some very nice French cuisine in the Houston countryside.
, August 09, 2001
I've never done this before," says the black-clad woman in the backseat as we slow down to pay the toll at the Westheimer exit on Beltway... More >>
A Matter of Fat A Matter of Fat
The U.S. beef industry's lower standards have led to an increase in chop houses
, August 02, 2001
American steaks: First of a three-part series Our waiter is an older man in a white waiter's jacket, a black tie and a long white apron. He... More >>
Roll with It Roll with It
Houston chefs are creating some uniquely Texan sushi rolls
, July 26, 2001
His knife is a blur as Yo, the sushi chef, chops a pile of assorted scraps into a fine mess of fish burger. I am trying to figure out why Sushi... More >>
North Guadalajara North Guadalajara
Fonda Dona Maria transforms into a colossal palacio
, July 19, 2001
Bright shades of clashing yellow and blue paint throb in the blinding summer sun. The tropical color scheme of Fonda Dona Maria's exterior blurs... More >>
Bad Kitty Bad Kitty
Red Cat Jazz Café doesn't live up its promises
, July 12, 2001
You might say that the Red Cat Jazz Café suffers from an identity crisis. Is it one of Houston's hip new downtown nightspots or one of its hip... More >>
Smoke Gets in Your Eyes Smoke Gets in Your Eyes
Noche Cocina has risen from the ashes of Cafe Noche
, July 05, 2001
Just as I took my first bite of the steaming salsa at Noche Cocina y Bar, my husband, Brad, said, "Is it the chips or the sauce that tastes like... More >>
Free Fire Zone Free Fire Zone
The praise or blame lies with the diner at Fire + Ice
, June 28, 2001
The ambience seems more MTV game show than Upper Kirby restaurant: The chandeliers drip Lucite icicles. Limp Bizkit throbs from the sound system,... More >>
Beyond Benihana Beyond Benihana
That's eatertainment: Tokyohana knows how to play with its food.
, June 21, 2001
That's eatertainment: Second of a two-part series A young man in chef's whites and an apron arrived at our teppanyaki table carrying a tray of... More >>
The Highs and Low Country The Highs and Low Country
Fox Diner is fabulous when it sticks to what it does best
, June 14, 2001
Diunna Greenleaf launches into a stirring rendition of "Amazing Grace" as we nibble on mini biscuits and corn bread squares. Judging by the... More >>
A Matter of Grape Concern A Matter of Grape Concern
Ibiza makes for a pleasant escape
, June 07, 2001
An iceberg wedge already has retro appeal; served with French, ranch or Thousand Island, it recalls the 1960s, an era of more innocent salads.... More >>
Food with Thought Food with Thought
Lunch with Pat Brown
, May 31, 2001
Pat Brown and I are standing in front of an empty seafood case. Brown is the general manager of Central Market, which opens to the public on... More >>
The Things We Still Carry The Things We Still Carry
Vietnamese food served with a side of fresh perspectives
, May 24, 2001
The lunch patrons today at Cuisine de L'Orient (Thien Kim) are all Vietnamese or Vietnamese-Americans, and every occupied table has a... More >>
Remembrance of Eggs Past Remembrance of Eggs Past
Maybe nutrition isn't a one-size-fits-all proposition
, May 17, 2001
The eggs over easy at Lankford Grocery and Market are cooked slowly so they stay tender; the yolks are perfect, not too runny and not a bit hard.... More >>
The Aroma of Authenticity The Aroma of Authenticity
El Hidalguense makes its Long Point neighbor seem downright American
, May 10, 2001
When you walk in the front door of El Hidalguense, the scent of mutton commands your attention. Or is it goat? The restaurant's specialties are... More >>
Blockbuster Fare Blockbuster Fare
Crowd-pleasing Pesce serves food Spielberg-style
, May 03, 2001
A large martini glass is filled with a seafood slaw made with shredded napa cabbage, jumbo lump crab, lobster meat, chopped shrimp, avocado and... More >>
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