Restaurant Reviews

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La Bonne Vie Outside  the Loop La Bonne Vie Outside the Loop
Bistro Le Cep offers up some very nice French cuisine in the Houston countryside.
, August 09, 2001
I've never done this before," says the black-clad woman in the backseat as we slow down to pay the toll at the Westheimer exit on Beltway... More >>
A Matter of Fat A Matter of Fat
The U.S. beef industry's lower standards have led to an increase in chop houses
, August 02, 2001
American steaks: First of a three-part series Our waiter is an older man in a white waiter's jacket, a black tie and a long white apron. He... More >>
Roll with It Roll with It
Houston chefs are creating some uniquely Texan sushi rolls
, July 26, 2001
His knife is a blur as Yo, the sushi chef, chops a pile of assorted scraps into a fine mess of fish burger. I am trying to figure out why Sushi... More >>
North Guadalajara North Guadalajara
Fonda Dona Maria transforms into a colossal palacio
, July 19, 2001
Bright shades of clashing yellow and blue paint throb in the blinding summer sun. The tropical color scheme of Fonda Dona Maria's exterior blurs... More >>
Bad Kitty Bad Kitty
Red Cat Jazz Café doesn't live up its promises
, July 12, 2001
You might say that the Red Cat Jazz Café suffers from an identity crisis. Is it one of Houston's hip new downtown nightspots or one of its hip... More >>
Smoke Gets in Your Eyes Smoke Gets in Your Eyes
Noche Cocina has risen from the ashes of Cafe Noche
, July 05, 2001
Just as I took my first bite of the steaming salsa at Noche Cocina y Bar, my husband, Brad, said, "Is it the chips or the sauce that tastes like... More >>
Free Fire Zone Free Fire Zone
The praise or blame lies with the diner at Fire + Ice
, June 28, 2001
The ambience seems more MTV game show than Upper Kirby restaurant: The chandeliers drip Lucite icicles. Limp Bizkit throbs from the sound system,... More >>
Beyond Benihana Beyond Benihana
That's eatertainment: Tokyohana knows how to play with its food.
, June 21, 2001
That's eatertainment: Second of a two-part series A young man in chef's whites and an apron arrived at our teppanyaki table carrying a tray of... More >>
The Highs and Low Country The Highs and Low Country
Fox Diner is fabulous when it sticks to what it does best
, June 14, 2001
Diunna Greenleaf launches into a stirring rendition of "Amazing Grace" as we nibble on mini biscuits and corn bread squares. Judging by the... More >>
A Matter of Grape Concern A Matter of Grape Concern
Ibiza makes for a pleasant escape
, June 07, 2001
An iceberg wedge already has retro appeal; served with French, ranch or Thousand Island, it recalls the 1960s, an era of more innocent salads.... More >>
Food with Thought Food with Thought
Lunch with Pat Brown
, May 31, 2001
Pat Brown and I are standing in front of an empty seafood case. Brown is the general manager of Central Market, which opens to the public on... More >>
The Things We Still Carry The Things We Still Carry
Vietnamese food served with a side of fresh perspectives
, May 24, 2001
The lunch patrons today at Cuisine de L'Orient (Thien Kim) are all Vietnamese or Vietnamese-Americans, and every occupied table has a... More >>
Remembrance of Eggs Past Remembrance of Eggs Past
Maybe nutrition isn't a one-size-fits-all proposition
, May 17, 2001
The eggs over easy at Lankford Grocery and Market are cooked slowly so they stay tender; the yolks are perfect, not too runny and not a bit hard.... More >>
The Aroma of Authenticity The Aroma of Authenticity
El Hidalguense makes its Long Point neighbor seem downright American
, May 10, 2001
When you walk in the front door of El Hidalguense, the scent of mutton commands your attention. Or is it goat? The restaurant's specialties are... More >>
Blockbuster Fare Blockbuster Fare
Crowd-pleasing Pesce serves food Spielberg-style
, May 03, 2001
A large martini glass is filled with a seafood slaw made with shredded napa cabbage, jumbo lump crab, lobster meat, chopped shrimp, avocado and... More >>
Folk Art on Bread Folk Art on Bread
Yes, we visited that Original New Orleans Po' Boy
, April 26, 2001
The skinny flute of bread is split in half and toasted, always a good sign. "Do you want your oysters well done?" asks the woman behind the... More >>
Bombay Beach Memoirs Bombay Beach Memoirs
Lunch with Darayus Kolah
, April 19, 2001
Koliwada is a Sikh neighborhood on the outskirts of Bombay where men in turbans set up food stalls every night, and people gather in the open air... More >>
Still Your Father's Tony's Still Your Father's Tony's
When Tony's gets rid of its outdated attitudes, we'll have some reason to go back
, April 12, 2001
Two smiling men in black bow ties are violently agitating tiny silver shakers. They uncap them simultaneously and pour martinis into our stemmed... More >>
The Inkblot Test The Inkblot Test
Do you prefer old greasy diners? Or imitations of old greasy dinners?
, April 05, 2001
There are eight customers in the Triple A Restaurant at 10:30 in the morning; all of them are men, and four sport comb-overs. The wood-grain... More >>
Hip Parade Hip Parade
There are better places for Middle Eastern food, but none of them is this much fun
, March 29, 2001
Smoke rises in a cloud above the hookah smoker's head. In front of him, a belly dancer in a blue-fringed bra moves her head from side to side... More >>
Show Time! Show Time!
While your mouth hangs open in awe at Zula's decorations, you might as well stuff Zula's fine food in it
, March 22, 2001
Even if the menu offered nothing of substance, it would be worth a visit to Zula just to look at the place. When it opened in the historic St.... More >>
House of the Rising Sun House of the Rising Sun
The stars align at Scott Tycer's Aries
, March 15, 2001
The pretty people waiting for a table won't step outside because it's pouring rain, but they won't back up to let us in, either. There is no... More >>
Beefing Up the Coach Beefing Up the Coach
Dom Capers takes on Texan barbecue for the first time
, March 08, 2001
Dom Capers can't believe how long the line is at Goode Co. Barbeque. And I can't believe that this is the first time the head coach of our new... More >>
Stay Out of the Kitchen Stay Out of the Kitchen
Catch the fish before it gets to the kitchen
, March 01, 2001
St. Pete's Pasta Diablo is one big bowl of noodles. The mountain of linguine is higher than the rim of the bowl. I think it's supposed to look... More >>
The Feng Shui of Dim Sum The Feng Shui of Dim Sum
Stay close to the kitchen if you want the best food at Kim Son.
, February 22, 2001
The yellow dragon rears back on his hind legs and opens his jaws wide while an ominous drumroll thunders through the room. The monster leaps into... More >>
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