Restaurant Reviews

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The Best Dim Sum in Guangzhouston The Best Dim Sum in Guangzhouston
A new champion is crowned
, November 02, 2000
There's an oversize xiu mai between my teeth, and it's too hot to eat. I made a greedy grab for the cylindrical pork dumpling the second it hit... More >>
The Authenticity Myth The Authenticity Myth
The Mex-Mex issue
, October 26, 2000
A Six-Part History of Tex-Mex Part IV of a six-part series. In the good old days, Texans went to "Mexican restaurants" and ate "Mexican food."... More >>
The Apple Martini Tour The Apple Martini Tour
In search of the trendy
, October 19, 2000
In the low cool light of the glowing Plexiglas squares behind the bar, the black-clad bartender doesn't appear old enough to drink. But he says... More >>
Don't Mess with the Family Don't Mess with the Family
Lunch with Michael May
, October 12, 2000
Alternating square slices of provolone and sottaceti, an Italian deli loaf that reminds me of mortadella, are dealt across a bed of romaine.... More >>
Texas Sushi? Hai! Texas Sushi? Hai!
Lessons from Mami
, October 05, 2000
Goths and strippers eating sushi in weird little booths -- that's the rumor I received by e-mail about Coco's Yakitori/Sushi Bar out on the... More >>
Mama's Got a Brand-new Bag Mama's Got a Brand-new Bag
Mama Ninfa brings home fajitas
, September 28, 2000
Part three of a six-part series Maria Lagunas is slapping dough balls into tortillas. I stand watching her near the front door of the original... More >>
The Spy Who Loved Meat The Spy Who Loved Meat
Matahari Restaurant and Bar
, September 21, 2000
My blind date, Zelda, is meeting me at Matahari, an Indonesian restaurant on Dairy Ashford. The restaurant is decorated with puppets and painted... More >>
Oh, Danny Boy Oh, Danny Boy
A faux Irish pub serves up great meals
, September 14, 2000
Two sunny-side-up eggs are the center of a glorious breakfast mandala. Radiating outward from the innocent whites and yellows is a dark and... More >>
Trend-scendent Trend-scendent
Lunch with: Melissa Noble
, September 07, 2000
The gazpacho tastes fizzy. I think it has started to ferment. This is a common problem with uncooked soups that have been stored in the... More >>
Combination Plates Combination Plates
Legendary restauranteur Felix Tijerina mixed Mexican food and Texas politics
, August 31, 2000
In the good old days, Texans went to "Mexican restaurants" and ate "Mexican food." Then in 1972, The Cuisines of Mexico, an influential cookbook... More >>
Location Be Damned Location Be Damned
Michaeline's on West Alabama
, August 24, 2000
The legend of 1512 West Alabama has developed like a spellbinding gothic novel, beginning with a few blessedly naive souls who refused to believe... More >>
Loco for Loroco Loco for Loroco
The secret herb at Houston's pupuserias can drive you out of your mind
, August 17, 2000
At a vacant lot at the corner of Hillcroft and Bissonnet a garage sale is in progress. I ask several people standing around the cash table which... More >>
Freedom from Choice Freedom from Choice
The Food Filling Station's limitations can be liberating
, August 17, 2000
Given the overwhelming number of menu options at most restaurants -- options that can, paradoxically, cause a control freak like me to mix and... More >>
Immigration Problems Immigration Problems
The Argentine parrilla loses its charm in the move north to La Estancia
, August 10, 2000
Alberto Falchetti worked as a waiter at some of Houston's best eateries in the 1970s. While he toiled at Tony's and elsewhere, he dreamed of... More >>
Raising the Bar Too High Raising the Bar Too High
Pâtisserie Descours sets itself up for failure with its lofty ambitions
, August 10, 2000
In his classic book The Physiology of Taste, writer Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin boldly stated, "The discovery of a new dish does more for human... More >>
Ethnic Explorer Ethnic Explorer
Does the thought of combing through the Chinese restaurants on Bellaire intimidate you? Let Jay Francis help.
, August 03, 2000
The jellyfish is nice and crunchy. Long slices of the transparent sea creature are marinated in a rice vinegar dressing with lots of fresh... More >>
Nothing Small About It Nothing Small About It
The expansive Maggiano's Little Italy serves portions to match
, August 03, 2000
"This is why women get fat," Eva said. She slid her fork aside in surrender, her initial lust for the chocolate "zuccoto" cake at Maggiano's... More >>
Pralines and Pushcarts Pralines and Pushcarts
A six-part history of Tex-Mex
, July 27, 2000
From Pushcarts to Paris A six-part history of Tex-Mex In the good old days, Texans went to "Mexican restaurants" and ate "Mexican food." Then in... More >>
Truck-Stop Italian Truck-Stop Italian
Big Humphrey's serves up all the comforts of home - assuming home is a double-wide
, July 27, 2000
Know the Italian word for "Bubba"? If so, use it at Big Humphrey's Pizza and Italian Restaurant in Pearland. This unlikely outlet of serious... More >>
Virtual 'Cue Virtual 'Cue
Lyndon's Pit Bar-B-Q serves an excellent approximation of the real thing
, July 20, 2000
The neon sign above the front door of Lyndon's Pit Bar-B-Q reads, "Open Pit." But there is no fragrant smoke wafting through the restaurant.... More >>
The European Experience, Via Katy The European Experience, Via Katy
At Barcelona, the mood and the menu say Spain. The parking lot says suburban mall.
, July 20, 2000
I have a confession to make: I'm a big-city food snob. So when I was told that there was a great Spanish restaurant in Katy, my initial reaction... More >>
Veg Out Veg Out
Giant crepes? Hot and spicy cereals? Anand Bhavan provides vegetarians with some exotic options.
, July 13, 2000
Sev potato puri comes in a little red and white paper boat, the kind ballpark nachos are served in. With the chips underneath and the cilantro... More >>
Utopia, Texas Utopia, Texas
A burger on the deck at Bubba's is the next best thing to visiting the Hill Country
, July 06, 2000
"Buffalo witz cheese, medium rare," slurred the cute twentysomething girl who took my order. Her pierced tongue was decorated with a bluish metal... More >>
The Mother Flavor The Mother Flavor
With its fresh masa and mole straight from Puebla, La Bamba Meat Market gets in touch with its ancestral tastes
, June 29, 2000
"Super Tortas, Taqueria, Huaraches." These words are painted in bright green letters on the side of La Bamba Meat Market. They catch my eye every... More >>
A New York Time A New York Time
Kenny & Ziggy's deli slices off a chunk of the Big Apple
, June 29, 2000
A kosher delicatessen without the ambient sound of New York accents is immediately suspicious in my book, kind of like a Mexican restaurant with... More >>
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