Restaurant Reviews

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Take Me Out to the Ball Game Cafe Take Me Out to the Ball Game Cafe
Ruggles at Enron Field hits for the cycle without ever leaving the dugout
, June 22, 2000
On the TV monitor at Ruggles at Enron Field, we were watching Chris Holt put on an amazing performance against the Philadelphia Phillies. Not... More >>
Falling For It Falling For It
The name inspires groans, but the delicious Humpty Dumpling is sitting pretty
, June 22, 2000
The Humpty Dumpling Café had its work cut out to overcome some major biases on my part. First, there's the restaurant's name. I hate it. I mean,... More >>
Peter Pan Cuisine Peter Pan Cuisine
When you believe in a place like Tony's, everything tastes better
, June 15, 2000
When Tony recognizes my celebrity dining partners, he bounds over to our table and starts pumping their hands. Since I am reviewing anonymously,... More >>
Plastic? Fantastic! Plastic? Fantastic!
La Vista's cheap patio furniture and outdoor ambience set the mood for its home-style fare
, June 15, 2000
For years my family, unlike most suburbanites, who prefer the careful landscaping of their own backyards, has hosted parties in the driveway. The... More >>
Multicultural Masala Multicultural Masala
Have you heard the one about the American food critic and the Pakistani cab driver who walk into a barbecue joint?
, June 08, 2000
Abdul picks up the Styrofoam bowl and begins eating the spicy pink yogurt with a plastic spoon, so I follow his lead. The cold yogurt soup has... More >>
Cowboy in the Kitchen
Welcome The Houston Press's new food critic, Robb Walsh
, June 08, 2000
The Houston Press's new food critic, Robb Walsh, has written about the gastronomic scene in Texas for more than a decade. He has served as food... More >>
Using Her Noodle Using Her Noodle
Liberty's Annie Wong can negotiate a tasty truce among even the most warring ingredients
, June 01, 2000
Throughout the Southwest, ranchers and oil-patch workers alike stop at noon to down cups of piping hot black coffee with the rationalization that... More >>
Our Daily Bread... And More Our Daily Bread... And More
Located in a student chapel, Autry House wins converts with a humble homestyle menu
, June 01, 2000
It's got to be one of the most relaxed gigs in the restaurant world: Chef/caterer Ann Swain, who owns the lunchroom at Autry House, is open for... More >>
Currying  No Favor Currying No Favor
The Classic Tandoor is anything but
, May 25, 2000
I can't decide if the first sign of trouble at The Classic Tandoor restaurant was the décor or the Musak. I suppose it couldn't have been the... More >>
Moving Up the Food Chain Moving Up the Food Chain
East End dive no more, Ostioneria Puerto Vallarta is a polychrome palace where seafood and Elvis are king
, May 18, 2000
I never visited the original Ostioneria Puerto Vallarta on Lawndale, so I never mourned its passing the way some of my friends do. Apparently the... More >>
Name Above the Title Name Above the Title
In his new digs, Angelika Cafe's Zumm Escudier exudes star power
, May 18, 2000
To: Zumm Escudier, executive chef, Angelika Cafe and Bar From: Dennis Abrams, Houston Press Subject: Groveling Mr. Escudier, I may owe you an... More >>
Eighth Wonder of the  Cajun World Eighth Wonder of the Cajun World
Cavernous as the Dome, Rodeaux shouts for attention with a funky menu that wants to be all things Deep South
, May 11, 2000
Curved and turreted, the former nightclub that now houses Rodeaux Cajun Palace reminds me of a miniature Astrodome. Okay, maybe a cross between... More >>
Through the Past Darkly Through the Past Darkly
Delightful Fuad's carries a torch for the '70s - which it uses to flambé everything in sight
, May 11, 2000
Let's do the time warp again: Imagine continental cuisine served without irony, and waiters who do more than recite the day's specials and... More >>
Love at  First Bite Love at First Bite
Da Marco woos one over drinks, seduces with menu
, May 04, 2000
When I fall in love with a restaurant, I fall hard. I wake up thrilled like a kid on Christmas morning, only my first thought is, "Today I know... More >>
Get In Line Get In Line
Bruce Molzan's Ruggles Cafe Bakery makes meals worth standing around for
, May 04, 2000
It seems everybody's doing it. First, it was Robert Del Grande and his clan (Cafe Annie), then it was Michael Cordóa (Américas and Churrascos).... More >>
An Ideal Place? An Ideal Place?
With a menu not quite as ambitious as its name, Vietopia is still a step or two away from nirvana
, April 27, 2000
In a city blessed with a vast horizontal expanse of excellent Vietnamese restaurants, I suppose there's only one way for a Saigon-style newcomer... More >>
Flesh Pot Flesh Pot
At the lip-smacking Fogo de Chão, it's all meat, all the time
, April 27, 2000
It would be difficult for even the most refined carnivore to refrain from licking his chops when first laying eyes on the spacious dining room at... More >>
Hole Foods Hole Foods
Relocated and rechristened, the Hobbit Café's still has a way with healthy cuisine
, April 20, 2000
I first visited the Hobbit's new home last fall, about a month after brothers Raymond and Forrest Edmonds finally reopened in a half-timbered... More >>
Stick a Fork in It Stick a Fork in It
Resurrecting fondue: The Melting Pot makes playing with food acceptable once more
, April 20, 2000
Fondue's popularity peaked, more or less, in the '70s, which explains why nearly everyone I told about my long-forked foray at The Melting Pot... More >>
Big Meal  on Campus Big Meal on Campus
Back in school, Eric's teases those poor UH students with its enticing menu and hotel-like prices
, April 13, 2000
I was skeptical when I heard that Eric's Restaurant had reopened on the University of Houston campus. This hands-on laboratory setting for hotel... More >>
Takes the Cake Takes the Cake
Every day feels like a birthday at the family-operated Lo Nuestro
, April 13, 2000
Sometimes, late at night, I start imagining there are only two kinds of restaurants: the kind that makes you feel as though you should be... More >>
43 Skiddoo 43 Skiddoo
Monica Pope's bargain bistro needs more seasoning
, April 06, 2000
I've been waiting breathlessly for the opening of Monica Pope and Andrea Lazar's "baby bistro," the 43 Brasserie, for what seems like an... More >>
Blue Highways Blue Highways
A trip to Surfside will land you a prize catch: The bait-camp delights of the Red Snapper Inn
, March 30, 2000
Just past the San Luis Pass toll bridge that joins the western tip of Galveston Island to the mainland was a billboard for the Red Snapper Inn.... More >>
Waiting for Turbot Waiting for Turbot
The Remington's service may call to mind a certain Beckett play,but the menu is a Tony-winner
, March 30, 2000
Setting: The Remington Grill. A weekday night. David, Ruth, Robert and Dennis arrive on time, having previously confirmed their reservations.... More >>
All Joking Aside All Joking Aside
With a name like Crapitto's, you have to be good
, March 23, 2000
That compact commercial strip of Mid Lane between Westheimer and San Felipe makes me gnash my teeth in frustration. Could it get any shorter,... More >>
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