Restaurant Reviews

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Eighth Wonder of the  Cajun World Eighth Wonder of the Cajun World
Cavernous as the Dome, Rodeaux shouts for attention with a funky menu that wants to be all things Deep South
, May 11, 2000
Curved and turreted, the former nightclub that now houses Rodeaux Cajun Palace reminds me of a miniature Astrodome. Okay, maybe a cross between... More >>
Through the Past Darkly Through the Past Darkly
Delightful Fuad's carries a torch for the '70s - which it uses to flambé everything in sight
, May 11, 2000
Let's do the time warp again: Imagine continental cuisine served without irony, and waiters who do more than recite the day's specials and... More >>
Love at  First Bite Love at First Bite
Da Marco woos one over drinks, seduces with menu
, May 04, 2000
When I fall in love with a restaurant, I fall hard. I wake up thrilled like a kid on Christmas morning, only my first thought is, "Today I know... More >>
Get In Line Get In Line
Bruce Molzan's Ruggles Cafe Bakery makes meals worth standing around for
, May 04, 2000
It seems everybody's doing it. First, it was Robert Del Grande and his clan (Cafe Annie), then it was Michael Cordóa (Américas and Churrascos).... More >>
An Ideal Place? An Ideal Place?
With a menu not quite as ambitious as its name, Vietopia is still a step or two away from nirvana
, April 27, 2000
In a city blessed with a vast horizontal expanse of excellent Vietnamese restaurants, I suppose there's only one way for a Saigon-style newcomer... More >>
Flesh Pot Flesh Pot
At the lip-smacking Fogo de Chão, it's all meat, all the time
, April 27, 2000
It would be difficult for even the most refined carnivore to refrain from licking his chops when first laying eyes on the spacious dining room at... More >>
Hole Foods Hole Foods
Relocated and rechristened, the Hobbit Café's still has a way with healthy cuisine
, April 20, 2000
I first visited the Hobbit's new home last fall, about a month after brothers Raymond and Forrest Edmonds finally reopened in a half-timbered... More >>
Stick a Fork in It Stick a Fork in It
Resurrecting fondue: The Melting Pot makes playing with food acceptable once more
, April 20, 2000
Fondue's popularity peaked, more or less, in the '70s, which explains why nearly everyone I told about my long-forked foray at The Melting Pot... More >>
Big Meal  on Campus Big Meal on Campus
Back in school, Eric's teases those poor UH students with its enticing menu and hotel-like prices
, April 13, 2000
I was skeptical when I heard that Eric's Restaurant had reopened on the University of Houston campus. This hands-on laboratory setting for hotel... More >>
Takes the Cake Takes the Cake
Every day feels like a birthday at the family-operated Lo Nuestro
, April 13, 2000
Sometimes, late at night, I start imagining there are only two kinds of restaurants: the kind that makes you feel as though you should be... More >>
43 Skiddoo 43 Skiddoo
Monica Pope's bargain bistro needs more seasoning
, April 06, 2000
I've been waiting breathlessly for the opening of Monica Pope and Andrea Lazar's "baby bistro," the 43 Brasserie, for what seems like an... More >>
Blue Highways Blue Highways
A trip to Surfside will land you a prize catch: The bait-camp delights of the Red Snapper Inn
, March 30, 2000
Just past the San Luis Pass toll bridge that joins the western tip of Galveston Island to the mainland was a billboard for the Red Snapper Inn.... More >>
Waiting for Turbot Waiting for Turbot
The Remington's service may call to mind a certain Beckett play,but the menu is a Tony-winner
, March 30, 2000
Setting: The Remington Grill. A weekday night. David, Ruth, Robert and Dennis arrive on time, having previously confirmed their reservations.... More >>
All Joking Aside All Joking Aside
With a name like Crapitto's, you have to be good
, March 23, 2000
That compact commercial strip of Mid Lane between Westheimer and San Felipe makes me gnash my teeth in frustration. Could it get any shorter,... More >>
Bloody Good Bloody Good
Gold Ribbon serves up an expansive spread of Filipino dishes. Just don't ask what's in them.
, March 23, 2000
Sometimes, when grazing from an all-you-can-eat buffet, it's best not to know exactly what you're stuffing into your mouth. More on that in a... More >>
Feeder Road Pho Feeder Road Pho
Dalat Vietnamese Bistro rises high above its concrete surroundings
, March 16, 2000
Too many Houston restaurants are in strip shopping centers, have you noticed? It's one of the quirks of our metropolitan dining experience I find... More >>
Drowning in Marinara Drowning in Marinara
The last thing downtown needs is another mediocre Italian eatery like Brothers Petronella
, March 16, 2000
The medieval question used to be, How many angels can dance on the head of a pin? The question for Houstonians in the year 2000 might be, How... More >>
Inner-City Suburban Inner-City Suburban
Despite its trendy locale, Riva's caters to urbanites with a taste for uncomplicated Italian
, March 09, 2000
One of the many things I like about Montrose is its defiant rejection of cookie-cutter, franchised theme restaurants. It's a source of... More >>
Jungle Fever Jungle Fever
At the Rainforest Café, the atmosphere roars like a lion, but the menu purrs like a kitty
, March 09, 2000
I ate my last slice of Chuck E. Cheese's pizza in 1990, when my five-year-old daughter attended a friend's birthday party. I remembered thinking... More >>
Eenie, Meenie, Minie... Eenie, Meenie, Minie...
With a menu boasting so many treats, decision-making can be difficult at Leibman's
, March 02, 2000
One of these days, I'd like to walk into Leibman's deli and ask for one of everything. That'd cause a stir. Imagine the genteel gasps of horror... More >>
Sibling Rivalry Sibling Rivalry
When it comes to Mediterranean meals, Dimassi can't compete with his brother
, March 02, 2000
Mediterranean restaurants, which used to be called "Middle Eastern" before we developed an acute case of political correctness and learned to... More >>
Step Up to the Plate Step Up to the Plate
Like nearby Enron Field, Habanero Blue puts a new spin on an old concept
, February 24, 2000
The intriguing Habanero Blue rests in a gritty part of downtown, just north of the Astros' new ballpark, where blue-collar sweat still hangs in... More >>
More Barking Room More Barking Room
Barnaby's sports a spiffy new doghouse on Shepherd - and the same tail-waggingly good menu
, February 17, 2000
I must admit, I like Barnaby's bustling second home on Shepherd. I was afraid I wouldn't. Like so many Montrose denizens, I'd become accustomed... More >>
Get Sauced Get Sauced
The Italian Cafe's traditional pastas will warm your heart and soul
, February 17, 2000
As I write this, I turn 40. With all the worries and self-evaluations that go with that chronological milestone, I've been thinking about, among... More >>
Deliverance Deliverance
The Confederate House's revamped menu will make you reconsider your Southern stereotypes
, February 10, 2000
To Yankees and other newcomers, sure, its very name is politically incorrect: The Confederate House, good Lord. It smacks of the embattled Stars... More >>
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