Restaurant Reviews

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Bloody Good Bloody Good
Gold Ribbon serves up an expansive spread of Filipino dishes. Just don't ask what's in them.
, March 23, 2000
Sometimes, when grazing from an all-you-can-eat buffet, it's best not to know exactly what you're stuffing into your mouth. More on that in a... More >>
Feeder Road Pho Feeder Road Pho
Dalat Vietnamese Bistro rises high above its concrete surroundings
, March 16, 2000
Too many Houston restaurants are in strip shopping centers, have you noticed? It's one of the quirks of our metropolitan dining experience I find... More >>
Drowning in Marinara Drowning in Marinara
The last thing downtown needs is another mediocre Italian eatery like Brothers Petronella
, March 16, 2000
The medieval question used to be, How many angels can dance on the head of a pin? The question for Houstonians in the year 2000 might be, How... More >>
Inner-City Suburban Inner-City Suburban
Despite its trendy locale, Riva's caters to urbanites with a taste for uncomplicated Italian
, March 09, 2000
One of the many things I like about Montrose is its defiant rejection of cookie-cutter, franchised theme restaurants. It's a source of... More >>
Jungle Fever Jungle Fever
At the Rainforest Café, the atmosphere roars like a lion, but the menu purrs like a kitty
, March 09, 2000
I ate my last slice of Chuck E. Cheese's pizza in 1990, when my five-year-old daughter attended a friend's birthday party. I remembered thinking... More >>
Eenie, Meenie, Minie... Eenie, Meenie, Minie...
With a menu boasting so many treats, decision-making can be difficult at Leibman's
, March 02, 2000
One of these days, I'd like to walk into Leibman's deli and ask for one of everything. That'd cause a stir. Imagine the genteel gasps of horror... More >>
Sibling Rivalry Sibling Rivalry
When it comes to Mediterranean meals, Dimassi can't compete with his brother
, March 02, 2000
Mediterranean restaurants, which used to be called "Middle Eastern" before we developed an acute case of political correctness and learned to... More >>
Step Up to the Plate Step Up to the Plate
Like nearby Enron Field, Habanero Blue puts a new spin on an old concept
, February 24, 2000
The intriguing Habanero Blue rests in a gritty part of downtown, just north of the Astros' new ballpark, where blue-collar sweat still hangs in... More >>
More Barking Room More Barking Room
Barnaby's sports a spiffy new doghouse on Shepherd - and the same tail-waggingly good menu
, February 17, 2000
I must admit, I like Barnaby's bustling second home on Shepherd. I was afraid I wouldn't. Like so many Montrose denizens, I'd become accustomed... More >>
Get Sauced Get Sauced
The Italian Cafe's traditional pastas will warm your heart and soul
, February 17, 2000
As I write this, I turn 40. With all the worries and self-evaluations that go with that chronological milestone, I've been thinking about, among... More >>
Deliverance Deliverance
The Confederate House's revamped menu will make you reconsider your Southern stereotypes
, February 10, 2000
To Yankees and other newcomers, sure, its very name is politically incorrect: The Confederate House, good Lord. It smacks of the embattled Stars... More >>
Crema de la Crema Crema de la Crema
Los Ranchitos' mellow, cream-heavy cuisine belies its strife-ridden origins in El Salvador
, February 10, 2000
When one thinks of south-of-the-border cuisine, one does not immediately think of El Salvador, a country more known for surviving a vicious civil... More >>
Playing with Food Playing with Food
The Cordóa brothers share the last laugh with their deliciously silly Amazon Grill
, February 03, 2000
When I think of the restaurant empire of the Cordóa brothers -- those Churrascos, that Américas -- I think of drama, flair, elegance, the... More >>
Bear Hug Bear Hug
You can't say nyet to Cafe East's hearty Russian menu and family charm
, February 03, 2000
When you go to Cafe East -- and you definitely should -- make sure to call ahead to find out if it's open. Here's the deal: The first time... More >>
Mexican Mystery Mexican Mystery
How do you solve a problem like Café Maria? Don't bother.Just eat.
, January 27, 2000
It's hard to believe that two restaurants with precisely the same, faintly redundant name, Café Maria Mexican Taco Café, are not related. One,... More >>
Ooh Lai Lai! Ooh Lai Lai!
Easy on the pocketbook, this dumpling house is even easier on the palate
, January 27, 2000
The first thing you need to know about Lai Lai Dumpling House is that the restaurant doesn't take credit cards. It's a cash-only eatery. The... More >>
Holy Noodle House! Holy Noodle House!
Working-class Kin Taro serves pan-Asian soups and salads with a superhero's flair
, January 20, 2000
According to traditional Japanese folk tales, Kintaro is a red-skinned wunderkind raised by a mountain witch. He sounds like an Asian version of... More >>
A Meaty Issue A Meaty Issue
Kahn's purports to build the best Reuben, but we have a beef with that claim
, January 13, 2000
Back in early November I wrote that Victor's Delicatessen makes the best Reuben sandwich in town. A strong statement, I admit, but a heartfelt... More >>
A Fine Kettle of Fish A Fine Kettle of Fish
Saltwater Grill's novel approach to seafood has Galvestonians moored to the place
, January 06, 2000
The best thing about Galveston this time of year is the utter lack of competition for the things I find essential. Video store shelves bulge with... More >>
Hong Kong Ahead Hong Kong Ahead
Third-generation chef Hoi Fung channels his homeland into his namesake kitchen
, December 30, 1999
\A soccer-mom friend was recently tasked with taking a flotilla of kiddies to lunch. She thought they'd try Chinese, something quick and cheap... More >>
Out with the New Out with the New
Renata's acquires an Asian accent, yet remains as oily as ever
, December 30, 1999
Yes, Virginia, there is a New Renata's. While the "old" Renata's offered continental cuisine with an Italian accent, the "new" one offers... More >>
More Than a Mouthful More Than a Mouthful
A nightclub? A restaurant? Whatever Bocados is, it serves up decent Tex-Mex.
, December 23, 1999
I've been to Bocados several times now, and I'm still confused whether this cozy little Montrose cottage is a cafe or a club. By club, I mean in... More >>
Little Shiva Little Shiva
The popular Indian eatery serves up major flavors - in small portions
, December 23, 1999
A longtime Rice Village favorite, Shiva Indian Restaurant is named after Lord Shiva, one of the most complex of Indian gods -- "destroyer and... More >>
In the Comfort  of Cheese In the Comfort of Cheese
Josephine's traditional Italian fare is the perfect antidote to the blues
, December 16, 1999
You know those days: A dark cloud follows you around at work, pouring misery onto everything and anything you do. When you return home, all you... More >>
Tray Magnifique Tray Magnifique
Cafeterias don't get any better than Cedars
, October 14, 1999
Sending me to review a cafeteria is a bit like sending Bill Clinton to judge the Miss America pageant. In theory, it's not such a bad idea. In... More >>
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