Restaurant Reviews

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Secrets of Sonoma Secrets of Sonoma
During the day, it's almost invisible. But at night...
, September 30, 1999
Drive past Sonoma restaurant by day, and you'll be, at best, puzzled. That's assuming you even find it, tucked away on the short stretch of... More >>
The Buzz The Buzz
Chic, minimal decor. Healthy food. An urban attitude. And it's where?
, September 23, 1999
Close your eyes and picture a chic yet comfortable urban cafe. Sunday-morning sunlight pours through tall windows, fashionably softened by... More >>
Darkness Palls
...beside food as good as Thai Cafe's
, September 16, 1999
Noted food writer and humorist Calvin Trillin once said something to the effect that when dining out he didn't much care if he had to eat in a... More >>
Breeze from the Northwest Breeze from the Northwest
Attention, Gulf Coast seafood fans: You're about to love a chain from Oregon
, September 09, 1999
For months Houston foodies have been buzzing about McCormick & Schmick's. Word on the street held that it was not just a good seafood restaurant... More >>
Brilliant Korea Brilliant Korea
At Nam Gang, flavors are anything but dull
, August 19, 1999
You hardly ever hear anyone say, "Honey, I feel like Korean food tonight!" Ask most people what they know about Korean, and you're likely to get... More >>
It's the Little Things
Carter & Cooley
, August 12, 1999
Antique shopping in the Houston Heights can be exhausting, and Carter & Cooley is the perfect place to stop and replenish yourself. In fact, the... More >>
Warm and Welcoming and Good Margaritas Warm and Welcoming and Good Margaritas
El Tiempo makes you want to forgive its mistakes
, July 29, 1999
During the oil boom, Ninfa Laurenzo's many, many margaritas and more baskets of chips built an empire. The Ninfa's chain found a profitable... More >>
French Bliss French Bliss
Bistro Provence
, July 22, 1999
After one week in France (and watching one too many French films), I've searched continuously for a Houston version of my ideal French bistro. It... More >>
Galvan-izing Galvan-izing
First there was Irma's. Now there's Irma's Southwest
, July 15, 1999
At first glance, the new Irma's Southwest Grill couldn't look more different from the original Irma's over on Chenevert. No Siamese-twinned... More >>
Trying Hard to Be Good Trying Hard to Be Good
, July 08, 1999
What a cheerful little roost is The Raven Grill, such a relaxed haven for lunch or simple supper. The large, high-ceilinged room sports an... More >>
El Queso Grande?
Is Bravos the best Tex-Mex in town?
, July 01, 1999
Recently I overheard a local restaurateur whose opinion I respect proclaim that the "best true Tex-Mex" in town can be found at Bravos Mexican... More >>
Hot Plate
, July 01, 1999
The proof is in the pastry: I can't decide which I love more, the top crust or the bottom crust of the country-style peach cobbler at Mama's Oven... More >>
Hot Plate
, June 24, 1999
A kittycat and a Kool-Aid: Twenty years ago, that meant an order of catfish and a Coors beer at Captain Benny's Half Shell [8506 South Main,... More >>
Sex Among the Armoires, Part II
, June 17, 1999
Screeching Halt at Staccato You may recall our recent titillating tale of an over-the-top display of public, ahem, affection ["Sex Among the... More >>
Deja Barbecue
Those vinyl booths, that paneling -- you know you've been here before
, June 17, 1999
I ate at Barbecue Inn on the recommendation of my next-door neighbor. It's not the kind of restaurant that would normally draw me in. First... More >>
Hot Plate
, June 17, 1999
Breakfast buzz: Some get their a.m. kicks from coffee, while others jump-start the day with a jolt of sugar. Satisfy that early-morning sweet... More >>
From Brussels with Love
A charming new cafe sprouts in Montrose
, June 17, 1999
Each time I discover a new restaurant with wonderful food, I am happy. If that same restaurant is difficult to find, hidden in an unlikely... More >>
Turkish Delight
, June 10, 1999
Istanbul Grill & Deli is an outpost of Turkey nestled between monuments of urban yuppieness in the Rice Village. Inside the tiny six-table... More >>
Hot Plate
, June 10, 1999
!Que milagro!: Robert del Grande's chiles rellenos at Taco Milagro [2555 Kirby, (713)522-1999] are not battered or deep-fried but unexpectedly... More >>
Hot Plate
, June 03, 1999
Smash this sandwich: Menu item number 35 at Cafe Express is the vegetable sandwich, piled so high on a crusty French baguette that we recommend... More >>
, May 27, 1999
Cocktail Chatter Ah, summertime! The season for sleeveless dresses and seersucker suits, icy fruited drinks served in tall, sweating glasses... More >>
94 Percent Dogma-Free
At Ziggy's, health food includes burgers and fries
, May 20, 1999
On my lifetime list of No-Place-But-Houston cafe concepts, Ziggy's Healthy Grill leads with a bullet. Ziggy's may cater to vegetarians and health... More >>
King of the Drive-Thrus
, May 20, 1999
If it walks like a duck and talks like a duck, well, then, it must be a duck. This rule, however, does not apply to El Rey, a terrific... More >>
Hot Plate
, May 20, 1999
Crawfish cuties: The latest tale of creative cuisine fusion comes from D'Amico's Italian Market Cafe [5510 Morningside, (713)526-3400] in the... More >>
When Nature Calls
, May 13, 1999
Most people, when they find out that I'm a chef, respond, "Oh, how exciting" or "That must be interesting." I usually just let my silence stand... More >>
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