Restaurant Reviews

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Beignet Blahs
Good ideas. Bad execution.
, May 13, 1999
Sometimes a restaurant just makes you sad. Cafe Beignet is just such a place. I walked in with high expectations. It's a nice space: tile... More >>
Game Over
, May 06, 1999
Friends told me I'd love Dave & Buster's. It's like Chuck E. Cheese for grown-ups, they said, a restaurant with Skee-Ball. Others darkly warned... More >>
Smoot Operator
Smoot Hull exits the Empire and moves -- where else? -- downtown
, May 06, 1999
It's funny how little it takes to fan a spark of restaurant gossip into a full-blown rumor fest. The latest contretemps started with the removal... More >>
Hot Plate
By Margaret L. Briggs
, April 15, 1999
Crunchy creole classic: Never mind the ups and downs of the Creuzot family's empire; after 30 years the original and only remaining Frenchy's... More >>
Taking the Heat
, April 08, 1999
Crapitto's Luck: Last April John Crapitto hit the jackpot when his restaurant, the abysmally named Crapitto's [2400 Mid Lane, (713)961-1161], was... More >>
Ashiana offers more than the same old dal
, April 01, 1999
On its answering machine, Ashiana brags that it's the best Indian restaurant in Houston. That's an audacious claim -- this city is blessedly full... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 25, 1999
Hello, Dilly: In the midst of the otherwise regulation Chinese menu at Hunan's Restaurant [3835 Bellaire, (713)666-2000] is a gem of a dish... More >>
As Seen on TV
, March 18, 1999
March came roaring in for Houston chef Claire Smith, owner of the much-praised Daily Review Cafe in north Montrose [3412 West Lamar, (713)... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 18, 1999
Drive-thru dee-light: Ah, Houston, foodie heaven, where great eats are served everywhere, even in your car. Best case in point: the grilled... More >>
Brunch of Champions
, March 18, 1999
Sunday brunch is best approached in one of two ways: an all-you-can-eat buffet or dim sum. The buffet enjoys a major advantage -- it is all you... More >>
Massa's: The New Generation
, March 11, 1999
For nearly a hundred years, the Massa family has sold Houstonians seafood. In 1900 Michael Angelo Massa, a Sicilian immigrant, opened an oyster... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 11, 1999
Sugar and spice and salmon is nice: I'm currently crazy for Leopoldo "Polo" Becerra's chipotle-glazed grilled salmon ($18.95) at the Post Oak... More >>
Battlin' Beignets
, March 04, 1999
Joachim Jantzen didn't much like his job as night manager of Crescent City Beignets [3260 Westheimer, (713)520-8291], admits his wife, Teda,... More >>
The Cajun Rages
, March 04, 1999
Report #00001 New Orleans Food Police To: Treebeard's Market Square location 315 Travis (713)752-2601 As a transplanted Cajun, I... More >>
Bang-up Bento Boxes
Don Chang pushes the envelopeat Nara Japanese
, March 04, 1999
I was interested to read recently that American food pundits have pronounced rutabagas and bento boxes as the coming culinary fads. Rutabagas?... More >>
Drive-thru Bliss
, February 25, 1999
For most of us, fast food is an ugly fact of life; it's the dull, greasy stuff you eat because you're short on time and money. But cheap, quick... More >>
It's a Grill!
Once again, Prego is reborn
, February 25, 1999
Two decades after moving to Houston, I still miss autumn. In particular I long for the crisp smell of smoke on cold air: the tangy haze of leafy... More >>
Class of '98
A reluctant retrospective
, February 04, 1999
I hate all the year-in-review columns that crop up every January, reminiscing on everything from music videos to auto manufacturing and straining... More >>
Zen and the Art of Sandwich-Making
Paulie's offers inner peace through panini
, February 04, 1999
Paulie's serene little Montrose deli has saved me from the fast-food circles of hell more times than I can count. Faster than you can say "Mickey... More >>
Cali Sandwiches
Big hugs, tasty poor boys and durian -- if you dare
, January 21, 1999
"Was everything all right?" David Ngo inquired anxiously on my first visit to Cali Sandwich. "Be honest, now." He dropped his voice to a whisper... More >>
Hot Plate
, January 14, 1999
Humble hoecakes get the Hollywood treatment at benjy's in the Village (2424 Dunstan, 522-7602). Executive chef James Nakayama adapts a technique... More >>
Island Comfort
Reggae Hut starts good and gets butter. (Er, better.)
, January 07, 1999
It was miserably cold when I first found the Reggae Hut -- one of those nasty, damp days peculiar to the Gulf Coast in December. Rain squalled... More >>
Hot Plate
, December 17, 1998
What to order when you don't know what you want? Try the $8 Mediterranean salad plate at the Daily Review Cafe (3412 West Lamar, 520-9217). The... More >>
Hot Plate
, December 10, 1998
"I'm in the mood for something light but really tasty," I told the girl behind the counter at Paulie's (1834 Westheimer, 807-7271). "Oh, then you... More >>
, December 03, 1998
The Swiss Connection Some Texans traveling in Switzerland last month were astonished to see a bold red sign announcing a steak house named... More >>
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