Restaurant Reviews

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Massa's: The New Generation
, March 11, 1999
For nearly a hundred years, the Massa family has sold Houstonians seafood. In 1900 Michael Angelo Massa, a Sicilian immigrant, opened an oyster... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 11, 1999
Sugar and spice and salmon is nice: I'm currently crazy for Leopoldo "Polo" Becerra's chipotle-glazed grilled salmon ($18.95) at the Post Oak... More >>
Battlin' Beignets
, March 04, 1999
Joachim Jantzen didn't much like his job as night manager of Crescent City Beignets [3260 Westheimer, (713)520-8291], admits his wife, Teda,... More >>
The Cajun Rages
, March 04, 1999
Report #00001 New Orleans Food Police To: Treebeard's Market Square location 315 Travis (713)752-2601 As a transplanted Cajun, I... More >>
Bang-up Bento Boxes
Don Chang pushes the envelopeat Nara Japanese
, March 04, 1999
I was interested to read recently that American food pundits have pronounced rutabagas and bento boxes as the coming culinary fads. Rutabagas?... More >>
Drive-thru Bliss
, February 25, 1999
For most of us, fast food is an ugly fact of life; it's the dull, greasy stuff you eat because you're short on time and money. But cheap, quick... More >>
It's a Grill!
Once again, Prego is reborn
, February 25, 1999
Two decades after moving to Houston, I still miss autumn. In particular I long for the crisp smell of smoke on cold air: the tangy haze of leafy... More >>
Class of '98
A reluctant retrospective
, February 04, 1999
I hate all the year-in-review columns that crop up every January, reminiscing on everything from music videos to auto manufacturing and straining... More >>
Zen and the Art of Sandwich-Making
Paulie's offers inner peace through panini
, February 04, 1999
Paulie's serene little Montrose deli has saved me from the fast-food circles of hell more times than I can count. Faster than you can say "Mickey... More >>
Cali Sandwiches
Big hugs, tasty poor boys and durian -- if you dare
, January 21, 1999
"Was everything all right?" David Ngo inquired anxiously on my first visit to Cali Sandwich. "Be honest, now." He dropped his voice to a whisper... More >>
Hot Plate
, January 14, 1999
Humble hoecakes get the Hollywood treatment at benjy's in the Village (2424 Dunstan, 522-7602). Executive chef James Nakayama adapts a technique... More >>
Island Comfort
Reggae Hut starts good and gets butter. (Er, better.)
, January 07, 1999
It was miserably cold when I first found the Reggae Hut -- one of those nasty, damp days peculiar to the Gulf Coast in December. Rain squalled... More >>
Hot Plate
, December 17, 1998
What to order when you don't know what you want? Try the $8 Mediterranean salad plate at the Daily Review Cafe (3412 West Lamar, 520-9217). The... More >>
Hot Plate
, December 10, 1998
"I'm in the mood for something light but really tasty," I told the girl behind the counter at Paulie's (1834 Westheimer, 807-7271). "Oh, then you... More >>
Dish
, December 03, 1998
The Swiss Connection Some Texans traveling in Switzerland last month were astonished to see a bold red sign announcing a steak house named... More >>
Island Italian
Luigi's lights up the Strand
, November 26, 1998
Over a year ago, my husband told me he'd discovered a great new Italian restaurant in Galveston, right on the Strand. It sounded unlikely to me.... More >>
Hot Plate
, November 19, 1998
As the T-shirt exhorts, I've been thanking my lucky stars since 1977 -- not just for the barbecue served by Goode Co. (5109 Kirby, 522-2530;... More >>
Tex-Mex Tyranny
Lupe Tortilla's does things by the book. Its own book.
, November 12, 1998
Until I dined at Lupe Tortilla's, I'd never encountered a restaurant with a rulebook. It's described as "frequently asked questions," but make no... More >>
Hot Plate
, October 22, 1998
Chiles rellenos can be hell on wheels or paradise on a plate. For an Elysian version, try chiles rellenos en nogada at Pico's (5941 Bellaire... More >>
Downtown and Down-home
The scruffy soul of Treebeards survives an expensive renovation
, October 15, 1998
There are better restaurants than Treebeards, certainly, but I don't know of any that are held in higher regard. Treebeards is that rare case, a... More >>
Hot Plate
, October 08, 1998
The waiter at Cazadores (12323 Kingsride, 465-9377) was no help at all. "What do you recommend?" I asked. "Senor," he said, "I recommend... More >>
Dish
, October 08, 1998
As Dacapo's Turns In the beginning (in 1994) there was Dacapo's Cafe in the Heights. It was, and is, a cozy bakery-cum-deli, the brainchild of... More >>
Readers' Choice Winners
, September 24, 1998
Eats & Drinks Best appetizer: Cajun egg rolls, Houston Brewery, 6224 Richmond, 953-0101 Best beer: Houston Brewery, 6224 Richmond,... More >>
Dish
, September 17, 1998
Hooked on Hatches South of Albuquerque and north of Las Cruces lies the little New Mexican town of Hatch. Snuggled alongside the Rio Grande,... More >>
Hot Plate
, August 20, 1998
Seeing it from the street, you'd never guess that Otilia's (7710 Long Point, 681-7203) is a Mexican restaurant. That's because it's housed in... More >>
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