Restaurant Reviews

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Island Italian
Luigi's lights up the Strand
, November 26, 1998
Over a year ago, my husband told me he'd discovered a great new Italian restaurant in Galveston, right on the Strand. It sounded unlikely to me.... More >>
Hot Plate
, November 19, 1998
As the T-shirt exhorts, I've been thanking my lucky stars since 1977 -- not just for the barbecue served by Goode Co. (5109 Kirby, 522-2530;... More >>
Tex-Mex Tyranny
Lupe Tortilla's does things by the book. Its own book.
, November 12, 1998
Until I dined at Lupe Tortilla's, I'd never encountered a restaurant with a rulebook. It's described as "frequently asked questions," but make no... More >>
Hot Plate
, October 22, 1998
Chiles rellenos can be hell on wheels or paradise on a plate. For an Elysian version, try chiles rellenos en nogada at Pico's (5941 Bellaire... More >>
Downtown and Down-home
The scruffy soul of Treebeards survives an expensive renovation
, October 15, 1998
There are better restaurants than Treebeards, certainly, but I don't know of any that are held in higher regard. Treebeards is that rare case, a... More >>
Hot Plate
, October 08, 1998
The waiter at Cazadores (12323 Kingsride, 465-9377) was no help at all. "What do you recommend?" I asked. "Senor," he said, "I recommend... More >>
Dish
, October 08, 1998
As Dacapo's Turns In the beginning (in 1994) there was Dacapo's Cafe in the Heights. It was, and is, a cozy bakery-cum-deli, the brainchild of... More >>
Readers' Choice Winners
, September 24, 1998
Eats & Drinks Best appetizer: Cajun egg rolls, Houston Brewery, 6224 Richmond, 953-0101 Best beer: Houston Brewery, 6224 Richmond,... More >>
Dish
, September 17, 1998
Hooked on Hatches South of Albuquerque and north of Las Cruces lies the little New Mexican town of Hatch. Snuggled alongside the Rio Grande,... More >>
Hot Plate
, August 20, 1998
Seeing it from the street, you'd never guess that Otilia's (7710 Long Point, 681-7203) is a Mexican restaurant. That's because it's housed in... More >>
Dish
, August 20, 1998
Tossing Some Salad Around Look out, Souper Salad. There's a new posse in town offering up buffet-style health-conscious fare. The San... More >>
Dish
, July 16, 1998
Life After Leno Shades of The Truman Show: Imagine waking up one morning to find Jay Leno mentioned you the night before. That's exactly what... More >>
Modest Mex
Bocados has the good sense not to get fancy
, July 16, 1998
I like Bocados very much, though it can sometimes be tough on the nerves. Because the door has a tendency to stick, it's a struggle just getting... More >>
Hot Plate
, July 16, 1998
How do I spell relief? The way everyone does: B-R-E-A-D P-U-D-D-I-N-G. There's lots of great bread pudding in Houston. It's one of the reasons I... More >>
Dish
, July 09, 1998
Lupe's, Inside the Loop What is it about that west Houston neighborhood phenomenon, Lupe's Tortillas (318 Stafford Street, [281] 496-7580),... More >>
Hot Plate
, July 02, 1998
I'm not sure what I find so compelling about the barbecue sandwich ($3.35) served at Demeris (2911 South Shepherd, 529-7326, and branches). It... More >>
Hot Plate
, June 18, 1998
Do quail quail? They do when I'm around, for the very good reason that I can't get enough of them. The mesquite-grilled quail at Rancho Tejas are... More >>
Dish
, June 11, 1998
Catching Up with the Corduas Our favorite heavyweight Houston restaurateurs have been busy lately: The current scorecard for Glenn and Michael... More >>
Hot Plate
, June 11, 1998
Oh-oh! Wouldn't you know it? Just when I thought I'd laid to rest the last of my obsessions, up crops a new one. This time it's caramanolas ($6)... More >>
Bliss at Bayou City
The seafood-and-pasta joint doesn't put on airs. And doesn't need to.
, May 28, 1998
Dishes have been named for sopranos (peach Melba), actresses (crepes suzettes), ballerinas (Pavlova), novelists (Chateaubriand), entrepreneurs... More >>
Hot Plate
, May 28, 1998
I don't understand the antipathy with which some people regard lamb. Lamb is a gift from a beneficent God. And if you doubt that, you owe it to... More >>
Hot Plate
, May 14, 1998
I'm not going to claim that Riva's (1117 Missouri, 529-3450) serves the best meatball sandwich ($4.50) in the whole damn solar system. That would... More >>
Dish
, May 14, 1998
Abuzz in the Garden Have I mentioned that a food critic's job is a difficult and demanding one, all work and no play? If I did, I was lying... More >>
Chips, Salsa -- and Merengue
At Elvia's, a wallflower can dine very well
, May 07, 1998
I should begin, I suppose, by apologizing to the -- well, let's play safe and call them the Fabers. Sorry, guys. We stole your table. Truthfully,... More >>
Hot Plate
, April 30, 1998
I don't know what you do when you're depressed. Me? I head for Goode Company Bar-B-Que (5109 Kirby Drive, 522-2530). Have you noticed how happy... More >>
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