Restaurant Reviews

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In the Pink
El Pueblito's food more than makes up for its color scheme
, April 23, 1998
There are few good cartoons in the New Yorker anymore, but I did enjoy one that ran last month. A man and a woman are standing at the door of... More >>
, April 23, 1998
Movin' On Up on the South Side Thai food fans take note: One of Houston's best-kept secrets has moved uptown. Well, sort of. Kanomwan is still... More >>
Hot Plate
, April 16, 1998
Prego's (2520 Amherst, 529-2420) always manages to intimidate me. The place is so earnest, it puts me in mind of Lenin's Tomb. A friend claims... More >>
, April 09, 1998
A Beignet by Any Other Name Coffee Call has a new name. Starting immediately, both its locations (the original in the Lamar River Oaks Center... More >>
Hot Plate
, April 02, 1998
The trifle I gorged on as a child was a monstrous thing, including among its list of ingredients a jelly roll, slivered almonds, peach slices,... More >>
Cher Thing
The Zydeco Louisiana Diner doesn't stand on ceremony
, March 19, 1998
There are now two Zydeco diners -- one on Pease, the other on Travis -- and, as far as I'm concerned, that's not nearly enough. In a perfect... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 05, 1998
Of all the major food groups, which two are the most important? Meat and Guinness, of course. So rejoice, all ye who fret about your health.... More >>
, February 26, 1998
Love for Sale Valentine's Day was a disaster. She Who Brooks No Nonsense was highly critical of the bar of Toblerone I gave her. But the... More >>
Hot Plate
, February 19, 1998
Moo shu may sound like a dairy product. Actually, it's something altogether more delectable: a thin Chinese pancake -- known in some quarters as... More >>
Pasta Point of No Return
So much Italian food. So overcooked.
, February 12, 1998
I've been feeling philosophical of late. And I don't mean the God thing. Stuff like that I leave to lesser minds. My concerns go deeper. Like,... More >>
Hot Plate
, February 12, 1998
Don't you love those paintings in the Empire Cafe? They're satirizing something. But what? Rubens's odalisques? Pornography? The female form?... More >>
Conversion Experience
I was a doubter, but Cafe Beignet won me over
, February 05, 1998
We're a skeptical lot, we Lawlors. Consider our coat of arms: a crossed knife and fork on a silver field and, below, the motto "Eater Beware."... More >>
, January 15, 1998
King of Kings A King Cake, as you ought to know by now, is one of those buttery, neon-frosted concoctions that announces the approach of Mardi... More >>
Revamp in River Oaks
Armando's gets a new chef -- and a new attitude
, January 08, 1998
I approached Armando's sick with dread. Who hasn't heard the stories? Possessing all the warmth of a nest of tigers, it didn't suffer strangers,... More >>
, January 08, 1998
Raw Competition Conventional economic wisdom has it that when two businesses compete, both firms' products and prices improve as the companies... More >>
Tacos with Ambition
Robert del Grande's Taco Milagro aims upmarket
, November 27, 1997
The newish Taco Milagro isn't your typical family-owned Mexican joint -- not when the family in question is the del Grande/Schiller clan.... More >>
Chef Tim Keating overcomes the curse of hotel food
, November 20, 1997
When I travel, I never eat in the hotel: It's an unfortunately reliable rule of thumb that memorable meals are rarely found at a place with a... More >>
Foolishness, fun and fajitas
Go ahead: Dance in the restaurant. At Fajita Flats, nobody will mind.
, November 13, 1997
Miss Manners would shudder at what passes for acceptable behavior at Fajita Flats. A low-level party rumble underpins both locations of this... More >>
The Not-So-Grand Canyon
At Post Oak and Westheimer, Mark Miller meets Wally World
, October 30, 1997
You'd think the Canyon Cafe would have everything in the world going for it: location, Southwestern decor, location, Southwestern cuisine and... More >>
Huynh-ing Combination
At Miss Saigon, restaurateur Doan Huynh gets everything right
, October 09, 1997
The Miss Saigon Cafe is unexpectedly fetching. The cool, modern decor -- terra-cotta walls, a smooth concrete floor and a striking mural of a... More >>
A Fish Tale
On Airline Drive, the Chung family turns seafood into something golden
, September 25, 1997
Some years back, the late Jacques Cousteau told a House Committee on Science that "the sea is the universal sewer." Well, if that's so, it... More >>
, September 11, 1997
Wrap a Lot If you've been perusing such culinary journals as Restaurant Business, then you already know that the people who spend their lives... More >>
Sold American
With his eponymous new cafe, Mark Cox sheds his Tony's past
, September 04, 1997
Sometimes a reputation, even a good one, can be as much bane as boon. According to at least one close associate, that was on chef Mark Cox's mind... More >>
Simple Delight
At the Triple A, the food lives up to the rating in the name
, July 24, 1997
Before there was a 610 loop, the Triple A Restaurant anchored a corner of the near north side. From its inception, the Triple A has stayed the... More >>
Soft and Crabby
Summer's the right time for many things -- but none better than soft-shell supping
, June 26, 1997
Signaled by the first full moon of May, a culinary miracle occurs in the warming waters of the Texas Gulf Coast. Blue crabs, more formally known... More >>
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