Restaurant Reviews

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Hot Plate
, February 12, 1998
Don't you love those paintings in the Empire Cafe? They're satirizing something. But what? Rubens's odalisques? Pornography? The female form?... More >>
Conversion Experience
I was a doubter, but Cafe Beignet won me over
, February 05, 1998
We're a skeptical lot, we Lawlors. Consider our coat of arms: a crossed knife and fork on a silver field and, below, the motto "Eater Beware."... More >>
, January 15, 1998
King of Kings A King Cake, as you ought to know by now, is one of those buttery, neon-frosted concoctions that announces the approach of Mardi... More >>
Revamp in River Oaks
Armando's gets a new chef -- and a new attitude
, January 08, 1998
I approached Armando's sick with dread. Who hasn't heard the stories? Possessing all the warmth of a nest of tigers, it didn't suffer strangers,... More >>
, January 08, 1998
Raw Competition Conventional economic wisdom has it that when two businesses compete, both firms' products and prices improve as the companies... More >>
Tacos with Ambition
Robert del Grande's Taco Milagro aims upmarket
, November 27, 1997
The newish Taco Milagro isn't your typical family-owned Mexican joint -- not when the family in question is the del Grande/Schiller clan.... More >>
Chef Tim Keating overcomes the curse of hotel food
, November 20, 1997
When I travel, I never eat in the hotel: It's an unfortunately reliable rule of thumb that memorable meals are rarely found at a place with a... More >>
Foolishness, fun and fajitas
Go ahead: Dance in the restaurant. At Fajita Flats, nobody will mind.
, November 13, 1997
Miss Manners would shudder at what passes for acceptable behavior at Fajita Flats. A low-level party rumble underpins both locations of this... More >>
The Not-So-Grand Canyon
At Post Oak and Westheimer, Mark Miller meets Wally World
, October 30, 1997
You'd think the Canyon Cafe would have everything in the world going for it: location, Southwestern decor, location, Southwestern cuisine and... More >>
Huynh-ing Combination
At Miss Saigon, restaurateur Doan Huynh gets everything right
, October 09, 1997
The Miss Saigon Cafe is unexpectedly fetching. The cool, modern decor -- terra-cotta walls, a smooth concrete floor and a striking mural of a... More >>
A Fish Tale
On Airline Drive, the Chung family turns seafood into something golden
, September 25, 1997
Some years back, the late Jacques Cousteau told a House Committee on Science that "the sea is the universal sewer." Well, if that's so, it... More >>
, September 11, 1997
Wrap a Lot If you've been perusing such culinary journals as Restaurant Business, then you already know that the people who spend their lives... More >>
Sold American
With his eponymous new cafe, Mark Cox sheds his Tony's past
, September 04, 1997
Sometimes a reputation, even a good one, can be as much bane as boon. According to at least one close associate, that was on chef Mark Cox's mind... More >>
Simple Delight
At the Triple A, the food lives up to the rating in the name
, July 24, 1997
Before there was a 610 loop, the Triple A Restaurant anchored a corner of the near north side. From its inception, the Triple A has stayed the... More >>
Soft and Crabby
Summer's the right time for many things -- but none better than soft-shell supping
, June 26, 1997
Signaled by the first full moon of May, a culinary miracle occurs in the warming waters of the Texas Gulf Coast. Blue crabs, more formally known... More >>
Capital Idea
Is one more palace of red meat one too many? If it's the Capital Grille, the answer is no.
, June 19, 1997
I would love to have been a fly on the wall the day that Providence, Rhode Island-based Rare Hospitality International decided Houston was where... More >>
Cuban Comfort
At Cafe Piquet, the food is basic -- and the pleasure special
, June 12, 1997
The first name is clearly Italian. The last name is clearly French. And the look, as anyone who's spent any time in diners can attest, is clearly... More >>
King of the Hill
The King Biscuit Patio Cafe is hangout heaven
, May 29, 1997
Located on a small rise at a bend in the road just east of Norhill Addition in the Heights, the King Biscuit Patio Cafe offers one of Houston's... More >>
Wrap It Up
, May 22, 1997
I admit that it took me a while to warm up to Mission Burritos. And I'll further admit that I seem to be alone in this. Almost everyone I speak... More >>
A Tale of Two Houses
A lease is lost, and a pair of lunch spots are found
, March 20, 1997
Sometimes, what appears to be a disaster can turn out to be a blessing -- even if not everyone involved recognizes it. Linda Williams, I suspect,... More >>
On the Chang Gang
, February 13, 1997
At times, trendiness can be its own reward. That certainly seems to be the case at P.F. Chang's China Bistro, the sort of Chinese, sort of... More >>
A Dose of Dosai
At Madras Pavilion, a South Indian treat is given its due
, January 23, 1997
I am not used to being surprised in Indian restaurants. After all, as a native of Bangladesh, I have a pretty good familiarity with what the... More >>
, January 09, 1997
Serious Sauce You can get into some intense arguments over the merits of barbecue joints in this town. There's the Goode Company faction, and... More >>
Seriously French
, December 26, 1996
When I hear that an eating establishment is one of only four Relais Gourmand organization restaurants in North America, and that the seriously... More >>
Island Dreams
, December 19, 1996
When the Reggae Hut's owners say they serve up "authentic Jamaican food and vibe," they aren't exaggerating. Like the gentle motion of waves in... More >>
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