Restaurant Reviews

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Soft and Crabby
Summer's the right time for many things -- but none better than soft-shell supping
, June 26, 1997
Signaled by the first full moon of May, a culinary miracle occurs in the warming waters of the Texas Gulf Coast. Blue crabs, more formally known... More >>
Capital Idea
Is one more palace of red meat one too many? If it's the Capital Grille, the answer is no.
, June 19, 1997
I would love to have been a fly on the wall the day that Providence, Rhode Island-based Rare Hospitality International decided Houston was where... More >>
Cuban Comfort
At Cafe Piquet, the food is basic -- and the pleasure special
, June 12, 1997
The first name is clearly Italian. The last name is clearly French. And the look, as anyone who's spent any time in diners can attest, is clearly... More >>
King of the Hill
The King Biscuit Patio Cafe is hangout heaven
, May 29, 1997
Located on a small rise at a bend in the road just east of Norhill Addition in the Heights, the King Biscuit Patio Cafe offers one of Houston's... More >>
Wrap It Up
, May 22, 1997
I admit that it took me a while to warm up to Mission Burritos. And I'll further admit that I seem to be alone in this. Almost everyone I speak... More >>
A Tale of Two Houses
A lease is lost, and a pair of lunch spots are found
, March 20, 1997
Sometimes, what appears to be a disaster can turn out to be a blessing -- even if not everyone involved recognizes it. Linda Williams, I suspect,... More >>
On the Chang Gang
, February 13, 1997
At times, trendiness can be its own reward. That certainly seems to be the case at P.F. Chang's China Bistro, the sort of Chinese, sort of... More >>
A Dose of Dosai
At Madras Pavilion, a South Indian treat is given its due
, January 23, 1997
I am not used to being surprised in Indian restaurants. After all, as a native of Bangladesh, I have a pretty good familiarity with what the... More >>
, January 09, 1997
Serious Sauce You can get into some intense arguments over the merits of barbecue joints in this town. There's the Goode Company faction, and... More >>
Seriously French
, December 26, 1996
When I hear that an eating establishment is one of only four Relais Gourmand organization restaurants in North America, and that the seriously... More >>
Island Dreams
, December 19, 1996
When the Reggae Hut's owners say they serve up "authentic Jamaican food and vibe," they aren't exaggerating. Like the gentle motion of waves in... More >>
, November 21, 1996
Perfectly Simple Ethnic encomiums are the watchword this week. So let us now sing the praises of Niko-Niko's, the odd little Greek joint... More >>
Pedigree Counts
Arcodoro has some growing up to do, but Dacapo's already does its parents proud
, November 14, 1996
Just ask the Freudians: The strongest human urges are the need to eat and the drive to reproduce. It's a textbook case of psychology in action:... More >>
Back to the Classics
, October 31, 1996
This spring, when customers wandered into the venerable Massa's in search of a fix of time-honored Gulf Coast fare, what they got instead was a... More >>
Back to Wok
A pair of Asian pioneers return to blaze new (if familiar) paths
, October 17, 1996
When Daniel Wong's innovative, multiregional Chinese kitchen on Richmond and the Lu family's funky Vietnam restaurant near the corner of Main and... More >>
Deep-fried Country
At Hickory Hollow, what fills your ears is as fine as what fills your mouth
, August 22, 1996
In a back room on Heights Boulevard, a fiddle player adjusts his Stetson, pushes his spectacles up in anticipation of the sweat that will soon... More >>
Doggone Success
The parking's horrid, the food just okay -- so why is Barnaby's so beloved?
, August 15, 1996
It's not always easy to determine what will become an institution, or why. Often, what seems a lock to those folks who like to think of... More >>
New World Order
The Brownstone tries to welcome the new while appreciating the old
, June 27, 1996
To all outward appearances, the Brownstone is among the last of a dying breed: opulently decorated, overstuffed with Old World heirlooms, it... More >>
One-Upping Mom?
, June 20, 1996
As far as I'm concerned, there's always room for another home-style diner, especially if it serves chicken and dumplings as good as those to be... More >>
Sunday Spice
, May 30, 1996
An interesting twist on the standard Sunday-brunch fare of omelets and French toast can be had at Thai Spice, the only Thai restaurant in town I... More >>
Muy Mexican
, May 23, 1996
A relative who used to work on the east side of town has long encouraged me to visit Merida, an establishment I've driven past many a Friday... More >>
Cool, Calm and Culinary
At benjy's, a tasteful restraint is a harbinger of a tasteful meal
, May 16, 1996
Stepping into benjy's after a few visits to our town's many mural-laden restaurant interiors is like entering a Japanese temple following a... More >>
Hidden Treasure
Jin Bo isn't much to look at, but it's a marvel to chew on
, May 09, 1996
Once in a great while in a Houston diner's life comes that singular moment when she stumbles upon a truly terrific divey Chinese restaurant. If... More >>
Philadelphia Story
Searching for a magic mixof meat, cheese and bread
, April 04, 1996
Recently, I've found myself obsessed with a particular culinary mission: to find an honest Philly cheese steak. It is, I admit, a mission that... More >>
Liberty, Fraternity, Gastronomy
At the Avenue Grill, all things are created equal, and tasty
, March 28, 1996
It may not surprise some cynics to learn that this town's criminals, lawyers and reporters have at least one thing in common. They, along with... More >>
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