Restaurant Reviews

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Guy's Stuff
At Guy's Meat Market, the eating's fine, if you can find a place to eat
, March 21, 1996
As much as I'd like to, I simply can't recommend that a meal at Guy's Meat Market is worth the trek to Guy's modest location on Old Spanish Trail... More >>
Safe Move
, February 29, 1996
Though I've always been fond of the food at Churrascos, what I've been even more fond of at Michael and Glenn Cordua's South Ameri-can... More >>
Factory Approved
Yes, the mentality's assembly line, but the Cheesecake Factory still churns out a good product
, February 22, 1996
Following my first visit to the new Cheesecake Factory, I came away musing that here was a case where hype outweighed performance. I'd heard all... More >>
Family Affairs
Mai's and Van Loc revel in large similarities - and small differences
, January 25, 1996
They're within four blocks of each other in an area of town gorged with Vietnamese eateries; they're both family-run operations. Their menus are... More >>
Burger for Breakfast
, January 04, 1996
I'm one of those diners who tend to get in a rut. I find a favorite menu item at a favorite restaurant and I order it over and over. At the New... More >>
Going for the Gold
A pair of culinary outposts bring the taste of the Philippines to the Medical Center
, December 28, 1995
Every evening, when the late shift shows up, the Medical Center begins to look like an outpost of Manila. For reasons that, to me at least, are... More >>
Pure Puerto Rico
Tex Chick goes from fast food to home food of the island
, December 07, 1995
Teo and Carmen Gonzalez, the sixtysomething owners of Tex Chick, tell an interesting tale of how they ended up running their tiny, homey... More >>
Landmark Stuff
La Tapatia offers cheap, spirited food and a nourishing sideshow
, August 31, 1995
The tattered strip center at Richmond and Woodhead divulges few clues that inside, a Montrose institution is aborning. First you notice that cars... More >>
One Man's Meat
At Lynn's Steakhouse, it's still the age of the carnivore
, August 24, 1995
Flipped inside out of its shell, and scored to unfold like a chrysanthemum, the two-pound Australian lobster tail looked as if it were not... More >>
Diner's Notebook
Dog Day Haven
, August 17, 1995
Sometimes it seems as if there's a Texas-genre food place on every other corner. You know: fajitas, burgers, steaks, fried things,... More >>
Diner's Notebook
The Empire Strikes Back
, July 13, 1995
He Smoots to Conquer: Empire Cafe proprietor Smoot Hull -- he of the long blond locks and the studied cool -- seems to be everywhere of late,... More >>
No Tex-Mex!
Otilia's eschews the goopy for the good, authentic Mexican-style
, July 13, 1995
I can't help smiling when I think about Otilia's. It happens when I consider this family kitchen's sopes, each primal, steamy circlet of masa... More >>
Goode Comfort
In a changing world, Goode Company Seafood keeps on delivering
, June 29, 1995
Forgive me my skittishness. Disappointment has ambushed me from behind too many familiar restaurant doors of late. Indeed, those who read this... More >>
The Importance of Being Elouise
, June 22, 1995
In most instances a restaurant opening is just a restaurant opening. But sometimes it's a cultural event: one of those occasions that represents... More >>
Critic's Choice
Listen to the Quiet (and Loud)
, June 08, 1995
During March's South by Southwest music conference, as Bedhead headlined a bill at the Terrace that featured such labelmates as Ed Hall and... More >>
Big Fun at Fung's
If it's crispy or aquatic, Fung's Kitchen makes it a delight
, June 01, 1995
"There's someone back in that kitchen whose only job is to mince and toast garlic," surmised my tablemate as we demolished a mess of soft-shell... More >>
Hybrid City
, May 04, 1995
One of the quirkiest lunch secrets in town is the spiffy little Swedish steam table at Ikea, the I-10 furniture superstore. My mom will kill me... More >>
Steak and Potato Paradise
If you can get past the silly surface, Outback delivers the goods
, May 04, 1995
Into most red-blooded American lives comes the powerful urge for a decent steak dinner that doesn't cost the earth. It should entail a great,... More >>
Spanish Civil War
, April 27, 1995
My head hurts just thinking about the latest plot development in the long-running Spanish Village soap opera. First there was the split between... More >>
Diner's Notebook
, April 06, 1995
Among the Tangleweenies Ethnic chills and cutting-edge thrills are all well and good, but sometimes the soul craves the bourgeois comforts of... More >>
Where the Chutneys Sing
At Mogul, the curse of the local Indian menu is broken
, March 30, 1995
It took about three minutes to realize that the drive to Clear Lake City had been worthwhile. Certainly the surroundings at Mogul, a brand-new... More >>
Diner's Notebook
, March 16, 1995
Lettuce (Etc.) Happens Bubble, Bubble, Toil and Trouble: Already, there has been a Major Unpleasantness at the excruciatingly hot new Cabo... More >>
The Other Mandola's
An East End deli with Italian-American soul
, March 09, 1995
Poor me. I drove by Mandola's Deli for eight years without stopping. And no wonder: the blank brick facade of this windowless East End lunch spot... More >>
Diner's Notebook
, March 09, 1995
Comings and Not Goings The Rumor Mill: Forget whatever you've heard about the hot new Daily Review Cafe having to find new quarters. Ain't so,... More >>
The Other Mandola's
An East End deli with Italian-American soul
, March 02, 1995
Poor me. I drove by Mandola's Deli for eight years without stopping. And no wonder: the blank brick facade of this windowless East End lunch spot... More >>
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