Restaurant Reviews

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Evolution of a Watering Hole
Backstreet Cafe outgrows its niche as a fair-weather favorite
, February 16, 1995
Once upon a time, the Backstreet Cafe rarely entered my mind unless someone said, "It's such a beautiful day, why don't we eat outside?" Then and... More >>
Hot Plate
, February 16, 1995
Truffle Stop All crisp black and white under its eccentric deep-rose ceiling, DaCapo's three-table bakery-cafe brings an assortment of modest... More >>
Hot Plate
, February 09, 1995
Shiva: Worth Celebrating Five years is a ripe old age for a restaurant, many of which don't survive to see their first birthday. So the... More >>
Hot Plate
, January 26, 1995
New Menu Blues There are new menus and New Menus. At Americas, where Nicaraguan-born Michael Cordua has experimented so deftly and originally... More >>
Eating on the Cutting Edge
Daily Review has the foodies alerted, and for good reason
, January 12, 1995
Word of mouth comes to a fast boil on the foodie circuit: if this is January 1995, any Inner Loopster worth his Kosher salt can be found at the... More >>
Promises, Promises
The Rock Bottom's menu writes a check its kitchen can't cash
, December 29, 1994
Some menus read better than they taste. With its green chili, buffalo fajitas and brown-ale chicken, The Rock Bottom Brewery's is one such... More >>
Shanghai Surprise
The flavors of China's Lower Yangtze flow into Houston
, December 15, 1994
Rejoice, all ye Chinese-food buffs: an early holiday present awaits you at Diho Square -- Houston's new center of gravity for serious Chinese... More >>
Soup Weather
, December 08, 1994
At this time of year, solace and fortitude are more liable to be found steaming in a soup bowl than sitting naked on a plate. There is no set of... More >>
Vegetable Magic
Abdallah's can make you wonder, who needs meat?
, November 24, 1994
I hate to say I told you so, but the new-and-improved Abdallah's is further evidence of my theory that Middle Eastern spots turn out the most... More >>
A Fork in La Strada
, October 27, 1994
It had been years since I'd eaten at La Strada. For quite some time, venturing east of Ruggles on lower Westheimer has seemed a bit too much like... More >>
Burger Heaven, Burger Hell
A quest for all that's good and greasy in an American icon
, October 13, 1994
When is a burger not a burger? This is a riddle to which there is no longer an easy answer. Not since cholesterol consciousness and animal-fat... More >>
Touring Little Persia
Houston's best undiscovered cuisine unfolds along the Hillcroft strip
, September 15, 1994
Connect the dots along a certain 12-block stretch of Hillcroft and you'll come up with Little Persia: Houston's latest ethnic commercial hub, a... More >>
Hot Plate
, July 28, 1994
Tempting Tapas It is 6:30 p.m. The freeway is an inferno. You're hungry and out of sorts. Driving home to cook doesn't sound too good right... More >>
Hot Plate
, July 21, 1994
Number One Males Barbecued crabs, those splendid Texas Gulf Coast perversities, usually entail a trip to the raffish Bolivar Peninsula, where... More >>
The Raw and the Cooked
, July 07, 1994
The trouble with rushing off to brand-new restaurants is that occasionally you blunder into one that is not quite ready for prime time. My recent... More >>
Woe is Me
, June 30, 1994
Nothing's what it used to be, or so the fogies tell us. I feel myself turning into one lately. The news that Roznovsky's had shuttered its... More >>
Court Food
, June 23, 1994
When I have business downtown and desire to feel truly urban, I repair to one of the naugahyde-and-chrome stools outside La Palapa, the... More >>
Hot Plate
, May 26, 1994
Galveston Ho It's that time of year when those of us who are not blessed with summer addresses in Aspen or Santa Fe start packing the car for... More >>
Haute Spot
Chef Louis Cressy enlivens the Lancaster with his neo-Gulf Coast cuisine
, May 12, 1994
It's a pleasant -- and all too rare -- surprise when a restaurant you'd written off acquires a new lease on life. Yet that is exactly what has... More >>
Paris, Texas
Montparnasse, er, Montrose Boulevard gets a civilized new hangout
, May 05, 1994
She was staring at my omelet. And for good reason: it wore the sunny, glistening face of eggs that have been coaxed rather than manhandled;... More >>
Hot plate
, April 28, 1994
Blond on Blond Nielsen's is the Marilyn Monroe of Houston delicatessens -- pale, creamy and voluptuous, talisman of a quaint era in which... More >>
Hot Plate
, April 21, 1994
Quintessence of Kebab For years I thought that of Houston's ethnic eateries, Indian places were the most consistent. Nowadays the honors go to... More >>
Cult restaurateur
Mickey Kapoor brings "Nouvelle Indian" inside the Loop
, April 14, 1994
"Mickey's back!" The late-winter rumors sent Indian-food buffs on hopeful cruises past Kirby and Richmond, where the sign on an empty... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 31, 1994
My Trip to West U I prefer West U in small doses. I get to say that because I used to live there, in a charming frame bungalow that got torn... More >>
Chopsticks at the Ready
The modest Chinese Cafe knows how to produce a feast worth losing your poise over
, March 31, 1994
Four or five bites into our dinner at the Chinese Cafe, the pace accelerated exponentially: chopsticks flew, serving spoons clanked furiously,... More >>
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