Restaurant Reviews

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Chopsticks at the Ready
The modest Chinese Cafe knows how to produce a feast worth losing your poise over
, March 31, 1994
Four or five bites into our dinner at the Chinese Cafe, the pace accelerated exponentially: chopsticks flew, serving spoons clanked furiously,... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 24, 1994
Life After Mrs. Brenner It is instructive to note which restaurants Houston expatriates rush to when they come home again. It's not the fancy... More >>
Houston Haggis
, February 03, 1994
The perverse imp in me has always wanted to eat haggis, and on January 25 -- Scottish bard Robbie Burns' birthday -- I finally got to. The... More >>
Behold the Modern Kolache
, January 27, 1994
It was bound to happen. Beset on every side by chic-er croissants and trendier tortillas, the poor old kolache is fighting back. These yeasty... More >>
The Queen of Tarts
, January 27, 1994
People gravitate to certain restaurants for a host of complex reasons: a room that speaks to their souls, a waiter who makes them feel good, a... More >>
Nuevo Voss
Escalante's: south of the border, west of the Loop, high on profile and middling on menu... so far
, January 20, 1994
Tamale bisque sat cheekily on the menu; a brooding, wall-length mural coaxed tired south-of-the-border cliches into the uneasy realm of dreams.... More >>
Hot Plate
, January 20, 1994
Make Mine the Special Some restaurant specials are more special than others. At Brennan's, diners who opt for chef Carl Walker's daily... More >>
New Year's Restoration
How salvation beats dazzle, and other mysteries of the restaurant trade
, January 13, 1994
Feng Ling may not be the answer to my recurrent prayer -- to find a Chinese restaurant I can love unreservedly -- but I'm soft on the place for a... More >>
Working on the Chain Gang
Carrabba's is cloning itself for national consumption. Has it kept its original flavor?
, January 06, 1994
I have seen the future of Carrabba's, and it worries me. Now that Johnny Carrabba and Damian Mandola have embarked on a joint venture with the... More >>
The Houston Press 1993 Menu from Hell
Abandon all hope, all ye who swallow here
, December 30, 1993
When the damned gather for New Year's Eve Chez Lucifer, I suggest they dine on this guaranteed true-to-life banquet culled from actual Houston... More >>
Return of the Irish Cowboy
Neil Doherty wakes up the Post Oak Doubletree
, December 23, 1993
First the good news: Neil Doherty's back in town. Now the not-so-good news: Once again, this interesting Irish chef holds forth in a big-hotel... More >>
Cuisine des Beaux Arts
Cafe Artiste offers culinary masterpieces within a Cajun aesthetic
, December 09, 1993
To the small patheon of Houston culinary originals, add the name of Tom Meredith -- breakfast genius out of southwestern Louisiana and resident... More >>
An art, not an afterthought
, December 09, 1993
That's what java is elevated to at PJ's Coffee & Tea Co. Originally established in the vieux carre, PJ's has the fine food attitude, mas yeah.... More >>
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