Restaurant Reviews

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Hot Plate
, March 24, 1994
Life After Mrs. Brenner It is instructive to note which restaurants Houston expatriates rush to when they come home again. It's not the fancy... More >>
Houston Haggis
, February 03, 1994
The perverse imp in me has always wanted to eat haggis, and on January 25 -- Scottish bard Robbie Burns' birthday -- I finally got to. The... More >>
Behold the Modern Kolache
, January 27, 1994
It was bound to happen. Beset on every side by chic-er croissants and trendier tortillas, the poor old kolache is fighting back. These yeasty... More >>
The Queen of Tarts
, January 27, 1994
People gravitate to certain restaurants for a host of complex reasons: a room that speaks to their souls, a waiter who makes them feel good, a... More >>
Nuevo Voss
Escalante's: south of the border, west of the Loop, high on profile and middling on menu... so far
, January 20, 1994
Tamale bisque sat cheekily on the menu; a brooding, wall-length mural coaxed tired south-of-the-border cliches into the uneasy realm of dreams.... More >>
Hot Plate
, January 20, 1994
Make Mine the Special Some restaurant specials are more special than others. At Brennan's, diners who opt for chef Carl Walker's daily... More >>
New Year's Restoration
How salvation beats dazzle, and other mysteries of the restaurant trade
, January 13, 1994
Feng Ling may not be the answer to my recurrent prayer -- to find a Chinese restaurant I can love unreservedly -- but I'm soft on the place for a... More >>
Working on the Chain Gang
Carrabba's is cloning itself for national consumption. Has it kept its original flavor?
, January 06, 1994
I have seen the future of Carrabba's, and it worries me. Now that Johnny Carrabba and Damian Mandola have embarked on a joint venture with the... More >>
The Houston Press 1993 Menu from Hell
Abandon all hope, all ye who swallow here
, December 30, 1993
When the damned gather for New Year's Eve Chez Lucifer, I suggest they dine on this guaranteed true-to-life banquet culled from actual Houston... More >>
Return of the Irish Cowboy
Neil Doherty wakes up the Post Oak Doubletree
, December 23, 1993
First the good news: Neil Doherty's back in town. Now the not-so-good news: Once again, this interesting Irish chef holds forth in a big-hotel... More >>
Cuisine des Beaux Arts
Cafe Artiste offers culinary masterpieces within a Cajun aesthetic
, December 09, 1993
To the small patheon of Houston culinary originals, add the name of Tom Meredith -- breakfast genius out of southwestern Louisiana and resident... More >>
An art, not an afterthought
, December 09, 1993
That's what java is elevated to at PJ's Coffee & Tea Co. Originally established in the vieux carre, PJ's has the fine food attitude, mas yeah.... More >>
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Is There Room in the Neighborhood for Heights General Store? Is There Room in the Neighborhood for Heights General Store?

Harold's, as the restaurant up the stairs and above Heights General Store is affectionately called, isn't open for dinner on Monday nights, but somehow I missed that fact. Downstairs, the… More >>

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There weren't any steaks like this in Houston 30 years ago. There were trompo and fajitas and ­filet mignon, but there were no churrasco steaks. Not until the oil business took… More >>

Where to Eat in Houston for Easter 2014 Where to Eat in Houston for Easter 2014

On the Menu Some of you may be wondering, "When is Easter?" And I bet those of you who gave something up for Lent know exactly when Easter is (you've been… More >>

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On average, a bowl of ramen takes 27 minutes to eat. When it comes to your table, you first must feel the bowl. Cup your hands around the patterned porcelain and… More >>

Ordering Truffles Out of Season Ordering Truffles Out of Season

Market Watch "Don't order anything with truffles," my friend said during a recent dinner at an upscale restaurant in town. "It's not truffle season anymore. It won't be worth it." I had,… More >>