Restaurant Reviews

1002 Reviews Display Results per Page
Burger Heaven, Burger Hell
A quest for all that's good and greasy in an American icon
, October 13, 1994
When is a burger not a burger? This is a riddle to which there is no longer an easy answer. Not since cholesterol consciousness and animal-fat... More >>
Touring Little Persia
Houston's best undiscovered cuisine unfolds along the Hillcroft strip
, September 15, 1994
Connect the dots along a certain 12-block stretch of Hillcroft and you'll come up with Little Persia: Houston's latest ethnic commercial hub, a... More >>
Hot Plate
, July 28, 1994
Tempting Tapas It is 6:30 p.m. The freeway is an inferno. You're hungry and out of sorts. Driving home to cook doesn't sound too good right... More >>
Hot Plate
, July 21, 1994
Number One Males Barbecued crabs, those splendid Texas Gulf Coast perversities, usually entail a trip to the raffish Bolivar Peninsula, where... More >>
The Raw and the Cooked
, July 07, 1994
The trouble with rushing off to brand-new restaurants is that occasionally you blunder into one that is not quite ready for prime time. My recent... More >>
Woe is Me
, June 30, 1994
Nothing's what it used to be, or so the fogies tell us. I feel myself turning into one lately. The news that Roznovsky's had shuttered its... More >>
Court Food
, June 23, 1994
When I have business downtown and desire to feel truly urban, I repair to one of the naugahyde-and-chrome stools outside La Palapa, the... More >>
Hot Plate
, May 26, 1994
Galveston Ho It's that time of year when those of us who are not blessed with summer addresses in Aspen or Santa Fe start packing the car for... More >>
Haute Spot
Chef Louis Cressy enlivens the Lancaster with his neo-Gulf Coast cuisine
, May 12, 1994
It's a pleasant -- and all too rare -- surprise when a restaurant you'd written off acquires a new lease on life. Yet that is exactly what has... More >>
Paris, Texas
Montparnasse, er, Montrose Boulevard gets a civilized new hangout
, May 05, 1994
She was staring at my omelet. And for good reason: it wore the sunny, glistening face of eggs that have been coaxed rather than manhandled;... More >>
Hot plate
, April 28, 1994
Blond on Blond Nielsen's is the Marilyn Monroe of Houston delicatessens -- pale, creamy and voluptuous, talisman of a quaint era in which... More >>
Hot Plate
, April 21, 1994
Quintessence of Kebab For years I thought that of Houston's ethnic eateries, Indian places were the most consistent. Nowadays the honors go to... More >>
Cult restaurateur
Mickey Kapoor brings "Nouvelle Indian" inside the Loop
, April 14, 1994
"Mickey's back!" The late-winter rumors sent Indian-food buffs on hopeful cruises past Kirby and Richmond, where the sign on an empty... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 31, 1994
My Trip to West U I prefer West U in small doses. I get to say that because I used to live there, in a charming frame bungalow that got torn... More >>
Chopsticks at the Ready
The modest Chinese Cafe knows how to produce a feast worth losing your poise over
, March 31, 1994
Four or five bites into our dinner at the Chinese Cafe, the pace accelerated exponentially: chopsticks flew, serving spoons clanked furiously,... More >>
Hot Plate
, March 24, 1994
Life After Mrs. Brenner It is instructive to note which restaurants Houston expatriates rush to when they come home again. It's not the fancy... More >>
Houston Haggis
, February 03, 1994
The perverse imp in me has always wanted to eat haggis, and on January 25 -- Scottish bard Robbie Burns' birthday -- I finally got to. The... More >>
Behold the Modern Kolache
, January 27, 1994
It was bound to happen. Beset on every side by chic-er croissants and trendier tortillas, the poor old kolache is fighting back. These yeasty... More >>
The Queen of Tarts
, January 27, 1994
People gravitate to certain restaurants for a host of complex reasons: a room that speaks to their souls, a waiter who makes them feel good, a... More >>
Nuevo Voss
Escalante's: south of the border, west of the Loop, high on profile and middling on menu... so far
, January 20, 1994
Tamale bisque sat cheekily on the menu; a brooding, wall-length mural coaxed tired south-of-the-border cliches into the uneasy realm of dreams.... More >>
Hot Plate
, January 20, 1994
Make Mine the Special Some restaurant specials are more special than others. At Brennan's, diners who opt for chef Carl Walker's daily... More >>
New Year's Restoration
How salvation beats dazzle, and other mysteries of the restaurant trade
, January 13, 1994
Feng Ling may not be the answer to my recurrent prayer -- to find a Chinese restaurant I can love unreservedly -- but I'm soft on the place for a... More >>
Working on the Chain Gang
Carrabba's is cloning itself for national consumption. Has it kept its original flavor?
, January 06, 1994
I have seen the future of Carrabba's, and it worries me. Now that Johnny Carrabba and Damian Mandola have embarked on a joint venture with the... More >>
The Houston Press 1993 Menu from Hell
Abandon all hope, all ye who swallow here
, December 30, 1993
When the damned gather for New Year's Eve Chez Lucifer, I suggest they dine on this guaranteed true-to-life banquet culled from actual Houston... More >>
Return of the Irish Cowboy
Neil Doherty wakes up the Post Oak Doubletree
, December 23, 1993
First the good news: Neil Doherty's back in town. Now the not-so-good news: Once again, this interesting Irish chef holds forth in a big-hotel... More >>
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