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Restaurant Reviews
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Barker Cypress Poor Boy Would you drive to Cypress for an enormous roast beef poor boy at Mama's Cajun Cuisine?
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September 10, 2009
The quarter roast beef poor boy at Mama's Cajun Cuisine on Barker Cypress is piled so high with falling-apart roast beef, I can barely get my... More >>
Laredo Cavalcade If you like the tacos at Laredo Taqueria on Washington, wait until you try the tacos at Laredo Taqueria on Cavalcade.
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September 03, 2009
The pork and summer squash stew in calabacitas taco at Laredo Taqueria on Cavalacade is slow-cooked until the pork falls into threads and the... More >>
Battleground Fried Shrimp The Monument Inn continues an old tradition of dining on hallowed ground.
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August 27, 2009
Our waitress at the Monument Inn in La Porte was a very savvy lady. Thanks to her sage counsel, we started off our meal splitting a decent shrimp... More >>
King Bubba The bacon cheeseburger at this Cypress roadhouse Rockwell Tavern blows all of Texas Monthly's favorite Houston burgers out of the water.
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August 20, 2009
Rockwell Tavern on Telge Road in Cypress opened in January, but the interior already looks well worn. That's because it was furnished with used... More >>
Keep on Trucking The tacos at this Bellaire Boulevard taquería might remind you of the ones you get from a taco truck.
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August 13, 2009
The stupendous cochinita pibil tacos are a buck and a half apiece at Tacos La Bala #2 on Bellaire, across the street from Pico's Mex-Mex. The... More >>
Chinese Chili Thanks to Indians and Pakistanis, spicy Chinese Halal cooking is famous all over the world.
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August 06, 2009
The fungus salad from Chinese Halal Cuisine on Bellaire was made from triangle-cut carrot slices and the wood ear mushrooms known as black fungus... More >>
Washington Ave. Revisited Forget what I said about Catalan – Chris Shepherd is one of the top toques in Texas.
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July 30, 2009
The cold cured salmon at Catalan came with a duck egg on top. The fish was cured with Tabasco mash, the fermented pepper residue left over after... More >>
Loaves and Fishes The best taquerías, like Taquería Jesus Maria, serve great Tex-Mex along with the regional Mexican fare.
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July 23, 2009
There was a fried mojarra on display on the front counter as we walked in the door of Taquería Jesus Maria on Spencer Highway. One look at the... More >>
Gators and Gumbo Enjoy the Tex-Cajun cooking at Al-T's — just don't ask too many questions about it.
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July 16, 2009
The first thing you notice about the chicken and sausage gumbo at Al-T's Seafood & Steakhouse is the thin sheen of rich liquid fat that coats the... More >>
New Leaf Banana Leaf begs the question: Why aren't there more Malaysian restaurants in Houston?
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July 09, 2009
There comes a moment in nearly every delicious meal at Banana Leaf in which you put down your chopsticks and ponder a simple question: Why isn't... More >>
Creole Rabbit The "Tex-La" food at Sabine River Cafe isn't innovative, but it sure is tasty.
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July 02, 2009
The paneed rabbit appetizer at Sabine River Cafe looked like a plate of McNuggets, but the white meat was sweeter and lighter than chicken... More >>
Brooklyn Gumbo A chef from New York City is knocking them dead in Piney Point at Jonathan's The Rub.
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June 25, 2009
The giant sea scallops at Jonathan's The Rub were lightly dusted with an herb and pepper rub and seared so that they were opaque on the outside,... More >>
Hollister Hospitality Customers love to get coddled at this new neighborhood grill in Spring Branch.
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June 18, 2009
The crab cake Benedict on the Sunday brunch menu at Hollister Grill is my new favorite version of the old-fashioned egg dish. It starts off with... More >>
Big Flavors, Little Tables Marco Wiles expands his Westheimer restaurant empire with another great Italian joint.
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June 11, 2009
Maybe the tender braised baby octopus in a light brown sauce with cannellini beans and carrot chunks was my favorite dish at Poscol. I had the... More >>
Crawfish Season's Tail End The bugs get bigger and the prices lower as the season comes to a close.
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June 04, 2009
Seafood dealer Jim Gossen sat in the booth across from me at Boiling Crab. It was the first time I had ever seen him with tears in his eyes. No,... More >>
Samurai Gaúchos Sushi and churrasco isn't an odd combination at Pradaria.
,
May 28, 2009
Cupim is an unusual cut of beef that's highly prized in
Brazil. It comes from the hump of Brahma crossbred cattle, and it's
reportedly as marbled... More >>
Shanghainese, If You Please You can get THE hot stuff if you want, but don't miss the bold flavors at one of the city's only Shanghainese restaurants.
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May 21, 2009
"Pork with preserved vegetables" sounds boring. But Jay Francis kept
tapping on this item on the menu at Shanghai Cuisine and
insisting that I... More >>
Pork and Beans on a Bun Pick up a sack of inexpensive sandwiches at the laid-back Tortas El Angel on Shepherd.
,
May 14, 2009
The steak, onion and raw jalapeño sandwich called the "Pepito" at Tortas El Angel in the Heights was my unexpected favorite. The crunchy fire of... More >>
Manena's Magic The Argentinean deli serves great sandwiches and empanadas — but leave room for dessert.
,
May 07, 2009
The sense of being transported to a small pastry shop in Buenos Aires is unexpected and welcome as you stand in front of the mesmerizing pastry... More >>
Cielo High A new Mexican bistro downtown serves up strong cocktails and tasty tapas for low prices.
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April 30, 2009
If the sign of a good happy hour is strong cocktails and delicious chicken wings, all for a rock-bottom price, then Cielo Mexican Bistro may... More >>
Roast Beef and Fried Rice Calliope's turns out authentic New Orleans food with an Asian twist
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April 23, 2009
"Nobody in Houston knows how to make a roast beef poor boy," displaced Crescent City native Tim Turner said to me the other day. Turner's eyes... More >>
Flea Market French Georges Guy is back in a big way with La Brocante Cafe.
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April 16, 2009
The duck confit salad I had for lunch at La Brocante Cafe on Kirkwood was a plate with three items. There were lightly dressed field greens, a... More >>
Island Grinds Two new Hawaiian fast-food joints are bringing down-home Asian fusion to Houston.
,
April 09, 2009
The Spam musubi at Little Island Grill on Westheimer looked strange. There was so much nori wrapped around the outside of the sushi roll, I... More >>
Tex-Cajun Cuisine at BB's Cajun Cafe This is the new late-night place to be if you like poor boys, grits and gravy, and breakfast in the middle of the night.
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April 02, 2009
"It's all about the gravy," New Orleans food writer Pableaux Johnson observed as he sopped up huge mouthfuls of the stuff. He passed the bowl... More >>
Jang Guem Tofu & BBQ House Sounds crazy, but you'll stop laughing when you eat some of this spicy tofu soup and barbecued bulgogi.
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March 26, 2009
There were so many stone bowls on our table, it looked like we were eating with the Flintstones. At Jang Guem Tofu & BBQ, the signature "soon... More >>
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