The torta ahogada ($8.49) at Paparrucho's (3055 Sage, 713-212-3178) is an eight-inch hoagie roll covered with refried beans, filled with delectable pork carnitas and smothered with lime-marinated onions. The name of the dish, which comes from Guadalajara, literally means "drowned sandwich," because before serving, it's dunked into a spicy tomato sauce that's also poured on top. The result is a soft sandwich best eaten with knife and fork. Despite the soggy bread, the onions remain firm and the carnitas, crispy.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.