Daniel Kramer

The torta ahogada ($8.49) at Paparrucho's (3055 Sage, 713-212-3178) is an eight-inch hoagie roll covered with refried beans, filled with delectable pork carnitas and smothered with lime-marinated onions. The name of the dish, which comes from Guadalajara, literally means "drowned sandwich," because before serving, it's dunked into a spicy tomato sauce that's also poured on top. The result is a soft sandwich best eaten with knife and fork. Despite the soggy bread, the onions remain firm and the carnitas, crispy.

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