Squashing the Competition

Anthony Butkovich

Cleburne Cafeteria (3606 Bissonnet, 713-667-2386) once sported a retro school-cafeteria feel. Unfortunately, when it was rebuilt after a fire a few years ago, the restaurant gave way to the neotraditional design trend of West University Place. But the line still snakes out the door for country favorites like roast beef, salmon patties, and chicken and dumplings, which are joined on the line by pastitsio and moussaka, thanks to the Greek roots of the owners. Enjoy the entrées, but don't forget to eat your vegetables, especially a sweet, cracker-topped version of yellow squash casserole ($1.45). Not only are you unlikely to find this dish in any other restaurant in town, but your own grandmother probably doesn't do it any better.

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