The Barbed Rose
Joe Schneider used his mother's name, Barbara Rose, as inspiration for his new restaurant in Alvin, The Barbed Rose (113 E. Sealy, 281-585-2272). He's been in the restaurant business all his life. "I was mother's little helper in the kitchen, and then I ran officers' clubs in the army for 14 years," he says. When he returned as a disabled vet after the Gulf War, he opened a metal recycling company, but cooking was still in his bones. So, after encouragement from friends and family, he and partners Patrick Buford and Chef Jason Cheney decided to open a fine-dining establishment.
Cheney is a talented chef who graduated from the CIA in Hyde Park, New York, went to work for Commander's Palace in New Orleans, had stints in Switzerland and Italy, and returned to Houston to work for The Houstonian. "I want to elevate what's available in Alvin and to expose the city to something new and not readily available," he says.
While some customers are trying the venison and antelope, the rib eye is the restaurant's best-seller. Following an important trend to source as much as possible locally, Cheney is finding that "as the word gets out, more and more local farmers are coming in and offering us their produce."
Dish had two great appetizers, the country-fried oysters, which came with house-cured bacon and homemade, pickled jalapeños, and the deviled crab dip, which was served with wonton chips. The main courses we sampled were a barbecue shrimp and grits that was full of flavor and a USDA Prime New York strip steak with truffled mac and cheese and a fabulous cabbage ragout.
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