When I ate dinner at Bank Jean-Georges with my daughter, the waiter asked if we wanted fizzy, still or "Houston" water. I asked for the Houston. Oddly the water here is served in petite stemware more appropriate in size for a glass of port. And since it was 90-something outside and I was quite thirsty, I quickly drained the glass.
"Was that water good, sir?" the waiter mocked.
"Do I detect a note of sarcasm in your voice?" I asked him. In some parts of Houston, the water isn't good, he lectured.
"What do you get for a bottle of still water here?" I challenged.
"We are actually one of the most expensive in town," he noted. A bottle of Voss goes for $7 at Bank.
"And how many bottles does the average table go through?" I asked.
"Two or three," he said.
"So what's your tip on $20 worth of designer water?"
"About $4," he said.
"Okay, I'll give you your $4, and you can cool it with the water," I offered.
He obviously took offense. After I drained another glass, he took the goblet away and replaced it with the stainless-steel water pitcher. With a flourish, he inserted a straw into the top of the pitcher.
I will put up with an awful lot for a good dinner, but this bottled-water bullshit is getting ridiculous. Offering it is all well and good. But attempting to embarrass people who won't order it is unacceptable.
Restaurants are running a scam. They're marking up water out of all proportion to its cost. And they sell it by impugning the quality of tap water. Well, guess what: It's the purity of bottled water that is suspect.
In the article "Despite the Hype, Bottled Water is Neither Cleaner nor Greener Than Tap Water," which appeared in E/The Environmental Magazine (www.emagazine.com)last fall, author Brian Howard cites independent testing that shows some bottled waters contain contaminants, including arsenic and other carcinogens. And the U.S.'s $7.7 billion bottled-water industry, he explains, is frighteningly unregulated. Tap water, on the other hand, is subject to constant testing and must meet rigorous standards.
Hmm, let me see: $7 a bottle for who-knows-what, or free tap water.
Make mine a "Houston," please.
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Houston dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.