Like a well-made bed where layers of soft, comfy sheets are topped with the perfectly weighted blanket, the shrimp enchiladas ($5.95) at Ostioneria Arandas Seafood (5757 Bissonnet, 713-663-5522) alternate in texture and flavor without being too heavy. The cheese rests on the corn tortillas and the tortillas wrap around the shrimp so that the medium-sized seafarers tumble onto the plate at first bite. In the world of enchilada-making, where too many times the sauce is the thing, here the springy shrimp are the standout. Forgo the chicken and beef and order these -- if for no other reason than the washed-down floors at Ostioneria Arandas make it look and smell like the place to eat seafood.
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