Them Bones, Them Bones

: One way to eat bone marrow is with a special marrow spoon, which is long, shallow and thin enough to get inside the bone and scoop out the delectable, juicy and gelatinous marrow. At Haven (2502 Algerian Way, 713-581-6101), a spoon isn't necessary, since the Akaushi Bone Marrow ($14) is served outside of the bone, making it exceedingly easy to enjoy this rich and delicious appetizer. The four-inch piece of roasted marrow comes from locally raised Akaushi cattle, which is prized for its Kobe-like qualities. Chef Randy Evans serves it with a smooth puree of shallots as well as a salad made of parsley and even more shallots.


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