Tortilla Flats

Anthony Butkovich

Before those interminably trendy wraps invaded its turf, the biggest taco in town was the breakfast taquito at Luke's Hamburgers [2626 West Loop South, (713)627-8545; 14710 Hiram Clarke, (713)434-2134]. But size alone is not why this eye-opener is the best around. Chunks of sautéed potatoes are mixed with freshly scrambled eggs -- not the crusted-over stuff scooped out of a pile of yellow mush -- and rolled with Jack cheese and a choice of bacon or sausage. The kicker here, at least for my $1.59, is the warm, fluffy homemade tortilla that holds the whole blessed thing together. You can get one from midnight until 10:30 a.m., but the best time to indulge is when you're leaving on a weekend road trip. Nothing sends you on your merry way like the most important meal of the day.

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