When you first set eyes on the di mare pizza ($16) at Trevisio (6550 Bertner, 713-749-0400), you may think something's missing. It's a pizza bianca, or white pizza; instead of tomato sauce, it's layered with a thick, creamy cheese sauce similar to an Alfredo sauce. "Di mare" means "of the sea" and, as expected, the thin-crust, 12-inch pizza base is covered in seafood — calamari and whole shrimp. The rich sauce and seafood make for a wonderful combination. It's all topped with red pepper flakes that announce their presence with every bite.
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