Unconventional Pair

Daniel Kramer

Samosas are savory Indian pasties. Sold on the streets of every Indian town, they're normally filled with potatoes, vegetables or meat. At Restaurant Indika (12665 Memorial, 713-984-1725), the samosas ($8) don't follow tradition. They're stuffed with crabmeat and laced with hot peppers, and instead of the traditional triangular shape, they come in round mounds, like small breasts, replete with tiny nipples on top. A pair sits comfortably on the plate, on top of field greens and next to a delicious, homemade sweet papaya-and-ginger chutney -- the perfect counterpoint to the spicy snacks.

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