After hearing so many people talk about the Dirt Bar (222 Yale, 713-426-2442), I have to check it out for myself. There's a moderately sized crowd when I walk in, and it's dark as shit, so I can barely see all the tattoos. All of the leather swivel chairs at the bar are filled except for one. I take the seat and give the bartender a wink to indicate my need for a drink. I order a Vodka Seven, and a girl comes walking toward me, looking like she's going to give me a line. Instead, she grabs her purse from the bar and gives me a dirty look. Looks like I stole her seat. The bartender comes back with my drink, pulls a 50-cent piece from his pocket, gives it a flip with his thumb and slaps it on the bar. Turns out it's Customer Appreciation Night here at the Dirt. I guess heads, and he slowly lifts his hand to reveal Kennedy's profile. The drink is free. If there's one thing I've always been lucky with, it's drinking. Instead of lights, the bar has projectors that blow up photos on the wall to look like paintings. Each image is different, and the one I'm most impressed with depicts a rocks glass tipped over, with a syringe, a razor blade and huge lines of cocaine. I think there are three girls for every guy here tonight, and they're dressed like they're ready to score themselves a rock star. I win five more coin tosses and then lose one. Taking this as an omen, I tip the bartender and roll out.
4 ounces Monopolowa vodka
2 ounces Seven-Up
Into a rocks glass filled with ice, pour the vodka and top with Seven-Up. Garnish with a lime wedge.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.