At last fall has arrived, and appetites have turned to heartier, holiday-style fare. For a real old-time feast, we suggest that favorite of former president Nixon, beef Wellington. At The Brownstone (2736 Virginia, 713-520-5666), the beef Wellington ($32) is served up in grand style, but it isn't for the diet-conscious: Its Black Angus tenderloin is seared in butter, smothered in pâté de foie gras (at least half an ounce) and a mushroom-and-brandy mixture, wrapped into a puff-pastry shell and brushed with egg wash for a crispy crust. Served with béarnaise and marchand de vin sauce, this noble British meal has enough of a kick on its own, but for extra indulgence, pair it with a French wine. We doubt Napoleon himself would be able to resist the dish, even though it's named for the man who defeated him at Waterloo.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.