The oh-so-proper Bistro Lancaster (701 Texas Avenue, 713-228-9502) lets loose on its dinner menu with the fricassee of wild mushrooms ($10), a festive dish of fresh, flavorful fungi simmered in red wine. Joining the trio of wild mushrooms are black truffles and cubes of apple-smoked bacon. Roasted sweet potatoes lend the fricassee its orange hue, but these tender little pieces with slightly leathery crusts give one the sensation of eating plantains instead. It's the flavors of wine and thick-sliced bacon permeating the appetizer that could make a meal for one, but each separate taste stands out individually on the tongue. Even Maurice Sendak wouldn't send a boy to bed without supper if this dish were on the table.
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