Brown Bag Deli (2036 Westheimer, 713-807-9191), customization is the name of the game. Customers pick up brown bags outside the deli’s front door, then check off on the bags what kind of bread, filling, cheese and toppings they want. Because they make decisions before getting to the front of the line, everything moves quickly and the sandwiches ($3.50) are ready in no time at all. My all-time favorite: jalapeño-cheddar bread with albacore tuna, horseradish mayo, horseradish white cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle. It’s a delicious concoction with plenty of kick.
This article appears in Sep 15-21, 2005.