When Sartin’s closed its location in Kemah four years ago, serious fans were devastated that they’d have to drive to the original location in Beaumont to get their barbecue crab fix. So the restaurant’s recent reopening in Nassau Bay (18023 Upper Bay Road, 281-333-4040) is cause for rejoicing. The all-you-can-eat barbecue crabs ($15.95) are dipped in seasoned flour then fried to a crisp, so almost everything is edible which doesn’t mean everyone eats them the same way. Some chew on the smaller claws first, then crack the larger claws with their teeth or a cracker, then make their way to the body. Others ignore the claws completely and go straight for the meaty stuff (we doubt they’re so extravagant when the portions aren’t all-you-can-eat).
This article appears in Mar 23-29, 2006.