It’s crystal clear why the seviche is better at Urbana, the hip Montrose spot that’s as cool as the blue ocean itself. The clean, crisp marinade of lime juice — aided by a kick of jalapeos, cilantro, red onions and just a few diced tomatoes — lets the flavor of the seafood swim to the surface. It’s not to be confused with the version that drowns the featured attractions in a murky tomato juice, resulting in a Bloody Mary without the benefits of vodka. Instead, Urbana offers huge shrimp, chunks of fresh crabmeat and generous amounts of avocado in a retro soda-fountain glass, surrounded by whimsical red and blue tortilla chips. At $8, you can also get hooked on the price of this cup of crustaceans.
This article appears in Sep 20-26, 2001.