Crepes are the French equivalent of tortillas. But while tortillas have fairly predictable fillings, the French seem to have expanded theirs to an almost infinite variety, both savory and sweet. The seafood crepes ($22) at Restaurant Ronit (5381 Westheimer, 713-626-9664) might have their equivalent in the fish taco, but the crepe is even more sophisticated than its south-of-the-border cousin. Here scallops, shrimp, crawfish, white fish and salmon are poached in a lobster-cream sauce that is also poured on top of the two crepes, making a delicious entrée. They come with seasonal vegetables tossed in olive oil and garlic.
This article appears in Sep 11-17, 2008.