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2002

Latest Articles

The Pig's Nose Knows

It's time to try a tiny bit of truffle

By Alan Truex
Dec 19, 2002

For most of us, holiday cooking means turkey, ham or, if you're adventurous, goose. But for those with higher culinary aspiration -- and an ample dining budget -- 'tis the season to celebrate white truffle. Imported from Italy and France and selling for $1,000 a pound, truffles are globular spores...
Is Zin In?

Zack Ateyea gives up the ghost of continental cuisine and bets the bank on a California red

By Alan Truex
Oct 3, 2002

For 15 years Cafe Elegante stood on Houston's west side as one of the last bastions of continental cuisine, turning out heavily sauced entrées and flaming desserts in a dining room filled with empire chairs. But after determining that continental is dead and seeing that much of his clientele was...
New World Order

Tony Vallone is searching for his lost shaker of salt at the new Los Tonyos

By Alan Truex
Jul 18, 2002

Tony Vallone, who made his name with Italian and French restaurants, has always relied on Mexican cooks to prepare European dishes, but now he's asking his chefs from south of the border to re-create the cuisine of their homeland. Vallone's oddly named Mexican venture, Los Tonyos Cantina, is scheduled to...
Luby's Has a Chef?

From haute cuisine to the LuAnn Platter, star chefs are moving on down the food chain

By Alan Truex
May 30, 2002

Tony Ruppe, former chef and owner of the sleek Montrose restaurant that bore his name, has switched from the high end to the low end of the food chain. He's now the corporate chef of Luby's cafeterias. "It is kind of funny," he says, chuckling. "We were targeting the top...
A Restaurant Maxim

Liquor and Lakewood don't mix

By Alan Truex
May 16, 2002

When Maxim's, a Houston dining institution for half a century, served its last meal in January 2001, it was expected to reopen within a year as the Pappas brothers' first French restaurant. But a spokesperson for the chain says the Maxim's renovation is on hold. Rumors throughout the restaurant industry...

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