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Dennis Abrams

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The Price of Perfection

Teuscher Chocolates of Switzerland

By Dennis Abrams
Nov 9, 2000

In a world fraught with ambiguity and doubt, one thing can be stated with absolute certainty: Teuscher champagne truffles are the finest chocolates on the planet. A buttercream core flavored with Dom Pérignon champagne is surrounded by a layer of exceptionally flavorful dark chocolate whipped with cream and butter; the...
Location Be Damned

Michaeline's on West Alabama

By Dennis Abrams
Aug 24, 2000

The legend of 1512 West Alabama has developed like a spellbinding gothic novel, beginning with a few blessedly naive souls who refused to believe in the "curse" and progressing through a series of "grisly discoveries" that have forced the entire town to come to grips with the mysterious, ominous powers...
Raising the Bar Too High

Pâtisserie Descours sets itself up for failure with its lofty ambitions

By Dennis Abrams
Aug 10, 2000

In his classic book The Physiology of Taste, writer Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin boldly stated, "The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a star." In the same bold spirit of overstatement, we'd like to suggest a corollary: The discovery that a restaurant does...
The European Experience, Via Katy

At Barcelona, the mood and the menu say Spain. The parking lot says suburban mall.

By Dennis Abrams
Jul 20, 2000

I have a confession to make: I'm a big-city food snob. So when I was told that there was a great Spanish restaurant in Katy, my initial reaction was, at best, one of skepticism. Its chance for greatness, I harshly estimated, was about equal to finding a terrific kosher deli...
Falling For It

The name inspires groans, but the delicious Humpty Dumpling is sitting pretty

By Dennis Abrams
Jun 22, 2000

The Humpty Dumpling Café had its work cut out to overcome some major biases on my part. First, there's the restaurant's name. I hate it. I mean, I really, really hate it. It was, I think, Thoreau who said, "Beware all restaurants bearing overly cute names." Then there's the poem...

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Dennis Abrams

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