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Eric Lawlor

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Restaurants

Year:

1998

Latest Articles

Loud and Strong

What can you expect from downtown's restaurant-of-the-moment? Crowds. Noise. And surprisingly good food.

By Eric Lawlor
Oct 22, 1998

There are restaurants -- and it's my good fortune to have eaten in some of them -- that offer not just good food but spectacle as well: views of the Sphinx, the Bosporus, the Coliseum, Hong Kong's glorious skyline. The new Cabo downtown, sad to say, doesn't number in that...
Downtown and Down-home

The scruffy soul of Treebeards survives an expensive renovation

By Eric Lawlor
Oct 15, 1998

There are better restaurants than Treebeards, certainly, but I don't know of any that are held in higher regard. Treebeards is that rare case, a restaurant that actually inspires affection. And not just among a small cadre of loyalists. Go there any midday, and you'll encounter tout le monde grazing...
Hot Plate

By Eric Lawlor
Oct 15, 1998

The shrimp and pork crepe ($8.95) at Dalat Vietnamese Bistro (3241 Southwest Freeway, 669-9375) is a piece of work any way you cut it. And believe me, you'll do a lot of cutting. Crepes don't come much bigger than this. No, it's not as large as a breadbox. It's more...
Hot Plate

By Eric Lawlor
Oct 8, 1998

The waiter at Cazadores (12323 Kingsride, 465-9377) was no help at all. "What do you recommend?" I asked. "Senor," he said, "I recommend everything." Not much use when the menu you're holding is voluminous. Or appears to be. When examined more closely, much of it consisted of a set of...
Winning Combinations

Fusion cuisine? A bad idea. Except at Dacapo's.

By Eric Lawlor
Oct 8, 1998

Fusion continues to gather steam, so much of it that I can see the day when the passion for seeing compatibilities where, very often, none exist, will blow up in the faces of its most enthusiastic practitioners. Fusion can work -- we can all cite examples -- but all too...

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