—————————————————— Best Late-Night Restaurant 2004 | Best of Houston® | Best Restaurants, Bars, Clubs, Music and Stores in Houston | Houston Press
Mai's The bars have closed, and the munchies have your stomach growling -- roaring -- for something more than just a burger from a drive-thru window. Although late-night dining used to be an oxymoron in Houston, now there are a bunch of spots in the downtown area. Judging by its loyal and lively wee-hours crowd, unpretentious Mai's seems to be a favorite for bleary-eyed party animals. On the southern end of downtown, Mai's stays open until 3:30 a.m. on weekends and 3 a.m. on weekdays, serving Asian fare such as soft spring rolls, light choose-your-own-topping vermicelli and savory stir-fry vegetables with noodles. You'll dine among folks in dinner jackets, jeans and tattoos, and just about everything in between.

Reid's Bar-B-Que Eddie Reid opened this place with her husband, James Reid, in 1968. James passed away nine years ago, and now Eddie runs the establishment with her son, James, who learned to cook at his father's side. The brisket and ribs are smoked in the classic East Texas African-American style, so the meats are very moist and extremely tender, with a huge smoky aroma. In keeping with the style, everything is drenched in a sauce that's too sweet for some palates. Ask for yours on the side. The mashed potato salad is homemade and seasoned with a little pickle juice, and the pinto beans are served plain. If you order a brisket sandwich, what you get is a generous pile of falling-apart beef and a couple of slices of white bread. Pickles and onions are 50 cents extra. You assemble your own sandwiches when you get home -- that way they

don't get all soggy.

Kahn's Deli Don't plan to get a table -- there are only a couple, and they're always full. But Kahn's Deli is a tiny sandwich counter with a whole lot of history. Here, Michael Kahn carries on the New York deli tradition that his father, Alfred Kahn, first introduced to Houston. Alfred Kahn's original deli was located in Rice Village just a few blocks away from its current incarnation. And his legacy lives on in such favorite combos as the roast beef, turkey and cheese with Russian dressing. The corned beef, pastrami and chopped liver are also top-quality, as are the half sour pickles. Regulars are addicted to the enormous homemade brownies, which are moist, dense and baked fresh every day. But the No. 1 seller at Kahn's deli is the oversize Reuben, which sells for $7.50 and easily feeds two.

Rainbow Lodge Tucked away on Buffalo Bayou, this once-private home with a pond, meandering gardens and sunroom overlooking a quaint gazebo has a way of making you think you're nowhere near the city. Pick a shady spot on the terrace and lose yourself in the trickling of the bayou below. The hand-carved wood bar, the collection of antique outboard motors mounted on the walls and the deep red cedar and pine details give the place a cozy hunting-lodge feel. If you don't mind stuffed trophies peering at you as you munch on some of the best Gulf Coast cuisine Houston has to offer, you'll enjoy a menu that leans heavily on wild game (the mixed grill appetizer includes venison, quail, elk and wild boar) and fresh seafood (salmon, lobster and blue crab plus daily fresh catches).

Best Neighborhood Spot in the Heights

Onion Creek Coffee House The Houston Heights is a great neighborhood that's starving for more social spots, and the Onion Creek Coffee House is a prime example of what those hangouts could look like (if more people had the fortitude to battle the prohibition-minded Houston Heights Association). Onion Creek's expansive sun deck, embellished with a tropical flair by owner Gary Mosely's green thumb, has transformed a once-bleak strip along White Oak into a magnet for everyone from morning dog walkers to late-night hipsters. Whether your thing is a $1.50 brunch-time mimosa, a Shiner, or just a cup of joe, this is where it's at. Settle into one of the retro velvet couches, and you might hear an aid worker talking about her recent trip to Afghanistan, or a thespian explaining the perks of canned-food night at the Alley. The Heights is just that kind of place, and Onion Creek helps make it happen.

Best Pre- or Post-Theater Restaurant

Artista The best complement to a fine performance is a fine meal. Lucky for theatergoers, the perfect eatery is right in the thick of downtown. At Artista, on the second floor of the Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, every dish is a skilled production. From the ethereally light soft-shell crawfish taquitos to the crispy duck scallopini to the flourless chocolate cake with orange-chocolate bisque sauce, Artista's sometimes surprising taste combinations are an art form unto themselves. With an elegant atmosphere and a view overlooking Tranquility Park's trees and fountains, the stage is set for the perfect evening.

The Breakfast Klub Marcus Davis, owner of The Breakfast Klub, is a God-fearing man. And his food is divine. For two years, this breakfast, lunch and social haven in Midtown has served up consistently fantastic Southern-fried catfish, wings 'n' waffles, pancakes, grits and, oh yeah, lunch items. Even on the busiest days (and with the 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. hours, it's busy) the eggs are fluffy, the sausage peppy and the coffee reliable. For those who haven't experienced a Southern-fried breakfast -- like the green eggs and ham (eggs with spinach, paired with a generous ham steak), potatoes or divinely buttery grits -- the Klub is a must. The signature breakfast sandwich features ham, bacon, eggs, cheese and tomatoes on gloriously fresh, crisp sourdough bread. As the diverse mix of regulars can attest, Davis, who closes the Klub on Sundays, may keep the faith, but his breakfast is downright sinful.

Best Neighborhood Spot in Midtown

Julia's Bistro At Julia's, bistro cooking has gone international. The restaurant's brand-new menu features both down-to-earth Mexican and funky Asian fusion dishes -- creations of Artista's former executive chef. Duck taquitos and lobster quesadillas fire up the appetite for some sensational entrées, like roasted rack of lamb with mango chutney or sea bass topped with a papaya-chipotle sauce that practically tingles on its way down the throat. This area of Main Street is filling up fast with hot eateries, but with delectably inventive dishes like these, Julia's will definitely keep its fans coming back.

Best Expense-Account Restaurant

O'Rourke's Steak House Owners John O'Rourke and Sam Hernandez grill a mean steak, but this Museum District eatery also sports some fabulous stuffed potatoes, divine salads and hearty seafood, like Chilean sea bass and Australian rock lobster tails. A fairly extensive wine list, a piano player, superb service and a relaxed players-club atmosphere make this locale a great impress-your-client lunch or dinner spot. On a good day, the New Zealand lamb chops don't even need the mint sauce. And the martinis are potent.

Restaurant Indika Indian fine dining reaches new heights at this enchanted cottage out on Memorial across from Town & Country Mall. Owner and head chef Anita Jaisinghani, who once worked at Cafe Annie, changes the meaning of samosas with a crab-stuffed version served with papaya-ginger chutney. Her answer to chicken tikka masala is Maple Leaf Farms duck tandoori served with almond curry. Indika shines brightest in astonishing renditions of familiar Indian dishes. The nan tastes like a fresh-out-of-the-oven Indian pizza crust. The yellow lentil dahl, with garlic, ginger and cumin, is electrifyingly spicy. And seafood dishes like Gulf shellfish mulligatawny are a sensational departure from gumbo orthodoxy. The short wine list, created by Paul Roberts (now the sommelier at the French Laundry in Napa), offers innovative choices at fair prices. One meal at this place will get you beyond the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet preconceptions of Indian food.

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