The fajitas and the fajitadillas (fajita-meat quesadillas) are made with sizzling, fresh-off-the-grill beef. The enchilada sauces are perfectly seasoned and never too thick or too watery. And giving away free chili con queso along with the chips and salsa at lunch hasn't hurt their popularity, either. The original Doneraki on Fulton had its fans, but the huge new location in the Gulfgate Center put Doneraki up there with the city's top Tex-Mex contenders. (A new Westheimer location is also coming on strong.) Tastefully decorated with saltillo-tile floors, Tabasco-colored walls and a huge copy of a Diego Rivera mural, it's one of the best-looking Tex-Mex restaurants in town. Like all classic Tex-Mex operations, Doneraki claims its chips and hot sauce, chile con queso, fajitas and cheese-stuffed jalapeos are "authentic Mexican." Bless their hearts.
Often overlooked as a burger mecca because of its lack of tables, this shabby convenience store serves the most impressive cheeseburger in town. The greatness starts with a half-pound, hand-formed patty mounted on an oversize, well-toasted sesame-seed bun. Go "all the way," and the adornments include lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayo, mustard, red onions, two strips of bacon and an ample amount of American cheese. Variations include the Rio jalapeo burger (add pickled peppers), the BBQ blues burger (with barbecue sauce) and the Tex-Mex burger (with salsa). The burgers here are "to go" only, so you'll need to plan ahead to find a place to eat them.
New Greek cuisine entres such as grilled sea bass or angel-hair pasta with sauted shrimp, scallops and calamari may be the most interesting things on the menu, but Alexander the Great Greek is doing an admirable job of being all things to all Greek-food lovers. There's Athens-style fast food like pita sandwiches with french fries and Americanized Greek salads with lots of lettuce topped with gyro meat, grilled salmon or grilled chicken breasts for dieters. And then there's a full complement of traditional Greek dishes, all done right. The restaurant's moussaka, made with a rich ground meat mixture seasoned with cinnamon and cumin, is the best in town. Greek wines, innovative and traditional, are featured on the wine list. There's also an impressive selection of ouzos. For the full experience, make reservations for Friday or Saturday night and take in the Greek floor show, complete with bouzouki player and belly dancer.
Hugo Ortega's upscale version of Mexican cuisine draws on his family's roots in Puebla, as well as on his training in the Houston restaurant business. The bar is loaded with premium tequilas, the guacamole is outstanding, and they make their own tortillas. Mexican-food enthusiasts will delight to find such exotica such as huitlacoche and squash blossoms on the seasonal specials list. The botanas platter, a huge appetizer assortment, is a good way to sample lots of offerings. But for a tour de force of Ortega's hit dishes, try the spectacular Sunday brunch: Nopalito salad, octopus ceviche, shrimp salad and cold ancho chiles stuffed with a meat-and-potato salpicon are among the amazing first courses. Seafood enchiladas, cabrito en salsa, handmade tamales and corn pudding are among the hot dishes. And Hugo's signature dessert, hot chocolate and the crispy Mexican doughnuts called churros, is especially appropriate on a weekend morning.
The fish seems fresher and the sushi chefs seem sharper at Uptown Sushi than anywhere else in town. On weekends, expect to dine among dressed-to-the-teeth singles mingling to a throbbing techno soundtrack. The sashimi is top-notch, and the raw Kobe beef is extremely popular. But it's the edgy, innovative dishes -- such as the tuna tartare served in a martini glass with Parmesan shavings -- that tickle the fancy of Houston sushi lovers. Wild things include the "lickety split roll," a bizarre-looking but tasty concoction of tuna, crawfish, cucumber and sprouts, topped with spicy tuna, yellowtail, salmon and avocado; it looks like a mosaic inside and it has a satisfying crunch. Watch out for the spicy "red roll," which features shrimp and avocado with crunchy cucumber, fresh jalapeo and sprouts on the inside and a layer of bright red tuna slathered with a red pepper paste on the outside -- it's hot!
There aren't any ceramic roosters, Ricard pitchers or other bistro clichs here; Bistro Moderne's interior is appointed in dark chocolate-brown with cream trim, and the extensive banquettes are accented with brilliant blue cushions. The look is fashion-forward, and the feel is extremely comfortable. You won't believe you're in a hotel restaurant. But thanks to the location, you can order breakfast, lunch or dinner, and the Sunday brunch is among the best in town. Roanne-born chef Philippe Schmit apprenticed at several two-star restaurants in Paris before moving to New York in 1990 and taking a job at Le Bernardin, one of the world's best seafood restaurants. And as you might expect, Schmit's fish dishes are exceptional, and his bouillabaisse is fantastic. So what makes this a bistro? The casual lunch menu features downscale classics such as moules frites, and l'hamburger, both served with world-class french fries.
When the water in Galveston Bay gets cold and the oysters start to get plump, we head to Willie G's oyster bar, where the shuckers are top-notch and they always seem to get the smallest, freshest and sweetest oysters. It's too bad they don't have a Muscadet or other extremely tart and very inexpensive wine to drink with the bivalves, but then again, this isn't France; beer is the traditional Gulf Coast beverage with oysters, and we like it just fine. This place was one of the best restaurants in Houston back in the '80s, when Cajun food was the rage, but then Tilman Fertitta bought it, dumbed down the concept, and now it's little more than an upscale Landry's. So don't bother ordering dinner. But Fertitta couldn't find a way to ruin Willie G's fabulous oyster bar -- it remains the best in town.
When you order barbecued crabs at Sartin's, the top shells and the messy innards are removed in the kitchen. What's left are spicy, meaty crab bodies (with two claws attached) that taste like a cross between barbecue and Cajun deep-fried seafood. The dish was invented in Sabine Pass, the corner of Texas that borders Louisiana and the Gulf of Mexico, but Sartin's Seafood restaurants made it famous. There have been 14 Sartin's restaurants over the years; currently, only three are open for business -- two in Beaumont and one in Houston. Kelli Sartin, daughter of the founders, opened the Houston Sartin's across the street from NASA after her parents' Beaumont restaurant was destroyed by Hurricane Rita. The Houston eatery is the last to offer all-you-can-eat crabs.
Opened in 1911 in Murdoch's bathhouse at the 21st Street pier, Gaido's is a fourth-generation family heirloom. They don't serve crabs in the winter, and they don't serve oysters in the summer -- they buy what's in season. Like Antoine's in New Orleans, Gaido's is as much a museum as it is a restaurant. Photos on the walls document the restaurant's history through menus, newspaper clippings and photos of celebrity patrons. The food isn't trendy, but some of the dishes invented there, such as Wade's shrimp bisque, have been on the menu for decades. Be forewarned: Gaido's can be great if you stick to the local seafood and avoid anything fried. But the service is glacial when the place is crowded, just like at those old classic restaurants in the Big Easy.
You judge a barbecue joint by its smoked meat. And the best comes from a real pit. The old cinder-block pit in Thelma's on Live Oak ought to be declared a historic landmark. The design was brought to Houston by the legendary Joe Burney of Beaumont back in the '20s. Harry Green, and other Houston barbecue legends who learned the trade from Burney, built pits like this in several Third Ward locations. When Harlon's bought Green's old location on Almeda this past summer, the first thing they did was to take a sledgehammer to the cinder-block barbecue pit. In its place, they installed a stainless-steel contraption. Drexler's on Dowling did the same thing a couple of years ago. The new stainless-steel barbecue ovens, with their gas and electric heating and automatic operation, are convenient for restaurant owners, but the virtual barbecue they produce doesn't measure up to the old-fashioned pit 'cue at honest-to-God joints like Thelma's.

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