The multicultural mussel appetizer at the Mockingbird Bistro in Montrose starts with perfectly cleaned, gritless Mediterranean mussels. The black-shelled, white-fleshed shellfish are stewed in a stout Asian-fusion coconut milk broth seasoned with garlic, lemongrass and spicy red curry. Then they're presented in a big white bowl of the hearty red sauce, with the shells arranged around the outside and a pile of stewed tomato and spinach greens sitting in the center. Matched with one of Mockingbird's excellent Rieslings or a bottle of cold beer, this is a spectacular appetizer. But eaten with a basket of bread and olive oil dip, this fabulous bowl of mussels makes for a pretty substantial meal all by itself.