La Carafe or Warren's, Warren's or La Carafe? That is the question. That anything other than one of Carolyn Wenglar's two venerable Market Square bars is the downtown's best is a fool's proposition. Right now we are in a La Carafe mood. We love the candlelight and the stalagmite-like wax formations, the amazing lore accreted on the brick walls, the wine and the beer. We love it that it is housed in the oldest public building in Houston, an edifice in which merchants once traded with local Native Americans and Confederate soldiers once bought biscuits. We love the jukebox, which epitomizes jazzy, classic big-city sophistication and romantic nostalgia. And we really love the table on the sidewalk, where you can kick back with a pitcher and smoke to your heart's content, all while the entire city of Houston seems to unfold right in front of you.