At Block 7, dry-aged beef is topped with well-melted Gruyère and a bacon relish that adds a hint of smoke and edge to the already flavorful meat. The kitchen keeps additions to a minimum (arugula, Dijon aioli), and this restraint, plus an excellent bun from local Slow Dough bakers, keeps what could be an over-the-top burger from becoming pretentious. Block 7 also serves up toothsome sweet potato fries and one of the most reasonably priced wine lists in town, making the burger experience at the glass-lined Heights eatery an excellent one.

This isn't your mama's chicken-fried steak — it's an obscene tower of goodness, impaled with a wood-handled steak knife, daring you to defeat it. Unlike many other CF steaks in town, the accompaniments at Beaver's are just as good as the main event: mashed sweet potatoes and Southern-style greens, all swaddled in a rich mushroom gravy with a side of Texas toast. And the star of the show? Perfectly crusted on the outside, moist and decadent on the inside. Fair warning — the faint of heart may need to bring a dining companion along to finish the plate.

There's nothing pretty about Hank's — it's a dive in a strip mall way the heck out on Bellaire, but man can these folks boil some crawfish. Big, fat mudbugs are served up for some of the lowest prices per pound in town, but the tail meat is sweet and tender, the spice blend perfect. You can order at four different levels of spice — mild, medium, spicy and tear-inducingly hot, adding in fresh garlic if you like. Luckily, cold beer is available to quell the fire in your mouth and Hank's sports plenty of other Louisiana favorites — po boys, boudin, barbecue shrimp and more — to round out your meal.

At Luigi's, the owner works in the kitchen, the wife takes your order and the daughter brings you your food. In a fast-food culture, this kind of business is few and far between. Luigi's just has plain good food and service. The pizza is thin-crust, with mounds of toppings and piping-hot cheese. The menu is written on a dry-erase board and is kept simple, with salads, hot wings, calzones and gelato. Specials range from lamb to spaghetti. The honest, hardworking family that runs Luigi's will keep you coming back for the great pizza, while the amazing gelato will keep you there a little longer.

Like most restaurants in Little India — the section of town that straddles Hillcroft where it meets Highway 59 — Shri Balaji Bhavan is a hole in the wall, and it's enticingly inexpensive. But what sets Shri Balaji Bhavan apart from all its neighbors are two things: spice and authenticity. In the great eternal debate over which is more important — how good food tastes versus how bona fide it is — Shri Balaji Bhavan wins on both fronts. The supremely authentic cuisine here is also supremely delicious, from the delicate dosai and spicy samosas to the tangy bhel puri and the numerous other chaat dishes that are perfect for sharing. Ornot.

READERS' CHOICE: Indika

Little Pappas Seafood House might not be an oyster bar specifically, but it's still an excellent place to down a dozen on the half-shell. The Pappas Restaurants, even though they are a chain, make everything from the mayo to the bread, so quality control is peak at every restaurant. Little Pappas is the best of the best — it is small and intimate, and often you're able to slurp your oysters to some soft jazz. When they're in season, Little Pappas has one of the best deals in town. The oysters are always incredibly fresh and expertly shucked. There are also plenty of inventive hot oyster dishes. Be sure to sample some of the decadent garlic bread.

Any Louisianan would tell you that some of the best po-boys are served up in unsuspecting holes-in-the-wall. Calliope's holds true to this tradition. Nestled in an unassuming strip mall, Calliope's serves up po-boys that have been praised by Louisianans and Houstonians alike. Try the sliced roast beef po-boy covered in brown gravy or the oyster po-boy bursting with crispy battered shellfish.

Although it bills itself as Cajun food from southern Louisiana, there's quite a bit of soul to this downtown institution. Since 1986, Zydeco has served up classic steam-table fare and Cajun favorites to a wide variety of downtown denizens: Cops, lawyers, construction workers and bankers all line up at lunch to get heaping portions of stewed okra, mashed potatoes, smothered pork chops and fried chicken. Further entrenching it in the splendid soul-food category are the offerings of sweet tea and decadent chocolate cake. This place is always busy during weekday lunches — which is good, considering that's the only time it's open.

READERS' CHOICE: THIS IS IT

Located in an airy little house in the Heights, the newly minted Zelko Bistro has taken a concept we readily adore — comfort food — and added an upmarket spin. Are you one of those naysayers who think comfort food and white linen don't jibe? Fried chicken breaded with Cap'n Crunch, an outstanding Reuben and the city's best fried green tomatoes will have you thinking otherwise. Chef Jamie Zelko seems to know that reputable meatloaf is essential if comfort food's your game. Cooked in a can and served over a mound of buttery mashed potatoes, her "Homeless Joe" meatloaf dances on the tightrope separating down-home and upmarket. You'll want it again and again. Fried pickles, hearty soups and a fabulous burger are additional reasons to hang your hat on the Zelko rack night after night.

READERS' CHOICE:

The proprietors call it Phoenicia, but we like to refer to it as "heaven." With aisle upon aisle of international goodies, this grocery warehouse is the kind of place where one can easily spend half a day and drop a lot of cash. But the pita bread (or pideh, as you'll see it labeled here) is alone worth making the drive for — soft, with just the right amount of chew, these rounds are in a far different category from the generally bland pitas sold elsewhere. You've also got to see Phoenicia's ingenious pita conveyor belt in person, which snakes from the second-story bakery down into the middle of the first floor, sliding fresh bread down to waiting Phoenicia staffers. Grab a still-warm bag. Or two. Or four.