With its ivy-covered walls, Cezanne seems more suited to some leafy university town in the Northeast than to the sprawling, swampy Bayou City. But those willing to seek out its cozy quarters above the Black Labrador Pub near Richmond and Montrose will find a cozy spot for a date night, a superb listening room to appreciate the occult art of acoustic jazz — somewhat underground these days, but very much alive — or both. For more than 20 years, Cezanne has hosted top regional names and occasional national ringers (Joshua Redman, Randy Brecker) for two sets a night with excellent acoustics and a minimum of electricity and conversation. It's also an important workshop for local jazz players such as Pamela York, Sebastian Whittaker, Woody Witt, manager Mike Wheeler and alumni of the nationally renowned HSPVA jazz program just blocks away. Open Friday and Saturday only; limited bites are available from the Black Lab menu.