Could there possibly be any question? El Bolillo stands as close to a model of fresh-baked Mexican pan as anything America knows, and rightfully so. Don't be fooled by its imposing, stately facade: Once you're inside, all the warmth of a neighborhood panadería is yours. There are the piles of variegated cakes. There are the buckets of fresh bolillos waiting for their customers' trays. There are the rows of pastries — the ones iced as you like, the ones filled with whatever fruit jam you can imagine — all for the taking. And you're a fool if you leave without a slice or three of tres leches stowed away. Come hungry and bring friends.