When young chef William Wright talks about the food at Helen Greek Food and Wine, it's with polite humility. He has the quiet intensity of one who is constantly working to master a subject. In this case, it's the seasonal aspects and ingredients of Greek cuisine, which he takes far beyond the shish kebabs and lemon potatoes you find at most places. Wright's dedication to the subject is one of the big reasons Helen Greek Food and Wine was a James Beard semifinalist for Best New Restaurant in 2016, a category in which Houston is seldom recognized. Wright is now overseeing not only Helen but also new American-Italian restaurant Arthur Ave. It's a lot of responsibility for a young man, but Wright seems up to the task.
READERS' CHOICE: Chris Shepherd of Underbelly