There are only a handful of restaurants in Houston that offer tasting menus, but few like The Pass, the fine-dining side of The Pass & Provisions, which has been the quintessence of the progressive American genre from the get go. Beyond a menu offering five courses with the option to supplement three more, what sets this restaurant apart from others is its open-kitchen format, which functions not only as a stagelike spotlight where diners can view the plating, but also as the springboard from which chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan will actually serve their cuisine directly at your table. Dishes are generally whimsical and creative, with gorgeous presentation and an element of surprise, like the belly three-ways, in which lamb belly, pork belly and tuna belly are presented on individual hot rocks that sizzle. The menu changes quarterly, and service is impeccable, so it's possible to visit often and still be wowed.