Darkened windows prevent you from seeing inside this tiny storefront restaurant next to the Diho Market in the "new" Chinatown. You might even think it's closed. But open the door and you'll discover a hidden treasure. All dumplings are handmade to order, so it takes a little time. While fried dumplings are available, it is the steamed variety that brings up memories of authentic flavors. First you'll be treated to complimentary hot tea, and then, depending on the whim of the owner, either a bowl of mixed spicy, pickled cabbage and a sweet cabbage slaw with a distinct mustard flavor, or a Chinese bread in the shape of a large Mexican churro with the consistency of a doughnut. Dumpling varieties include pork (ten for $2.95), vegetarian, beef or chicken (ten for $3.95) and shrimp (ten for $4.55). Combination plates also can be prepared. Half the fun of eating dumplings is creating your own sauce from the rice vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil and homemade hot chili sauce provided on each table.: