Size Matters

Okay, there is such a thing as too much meat. But when the burger patty is thick, it’s possible for the grill cook to make it a little pink in the middle, so it comes out wonderfully juicy. Such was the case with the subject of this week’s Café section review: the hand-formed hamburger at a rural convenience store in Washington called the 105 Grocery & Deli.

I could only finish half of the double meat, double cheese pictured here. I estimate that each patty was over half a pound. But it was the best half a burger I have put in my mouth in recent memory. -- Robb Walsh