Not Quite Nascarbernet: Private Label Wines from Perry's Steakhouse & Grille

When I heard that locally owned Perry's Steakhouse & Grille (9827 Katy Freeway) was debuting its own private label wines, I couldn't help but be reminded of when Wal-Mart announced the launch of a line of private label wines, set to sell for $6-7 per bottle, a few years ago. The late-night comedians and the online community had a field day coming up with the brand names Wal-Mart should have used. Winning entries included such classics as Nascarbernet, Peanut Noir, Chateau Trailer Parc and best of all, Nasti Spumante.

But the similarity soon ended, since Perry's are quite upscale. It is $13 a glass, or $52 a bottle, for Perry's Napa Valley Chardonnay, and $16 per glass, $64 per bottle, for its Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. "We are the only locally owned steakhouse with a private label wine selection," says Perry's corporate sommelier Susi Zivanovic. "We are at a point in our development that we have sufficient purchasing power to be able to do this. A smaller establishment just couldn't afford to do this." Well, cheers. - Paul Galvani